.png "Powered by vBulletin")
overhauled my brake and front forks but now can't get the brakes to work. I have the Mityvac and they just want work or build pressure. What could be the problems?????????????????
-
-
The Mityvac. -
I have heard they aren't all they're cracked up to be.Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
I was going to buy one, before that, but I still just bleed the old
fashioned way.Comment
-
If you have a dual front disc bike ( your signature doesnt provide a clue ) the manual says to start with the l;eft one first then the right. Also a little trick is to have someone gently start working the lever as you do the suction and cracking the bleeders below. That will help prime the master and get the fluids flowing.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.Comment
-
It's just a ton of air in the lines. Keep working at it or use a syringe to pull the fluid through the lines.Rob
1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533Comment
-
Fill the reservoir, crack the bleeder and wait an hour or two. This may get it started.
You did bench bleed the master cylinder?Comment
-
Been fighting the same thing since March. Have a MityVac too. Not a problem with the MityVac.
About to replace the caliper seals for the second time. Think there is a tiny air leak around the caliper piston. I've replaced the M/C with a newer one, replaced the line with a stainless steel line and bled bottles of fluid through the system.
Same old, same old. Got them to work well enough to ride some this summer, but the system wasn't right.
Good luck.Comment
-
It MIGHT be an air leak round the bleeder valve on the caliper.
A little teflon tape would take care of that.2@ \'78 GS1000Comment
-
Could be an air leak around the banjo bolt washers too...you did use new washers???MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.Comment
-
I would start with purging the master cylinder.
Remove the brake line from the M/C, cover the hole with your finger. (Have some rags handy to cover any spray that might come from around your finger, though.) Release a little bit of sealing pressure from your finger, squeeze the brake lever and hold it. Seal the outlet hole tight with your finger, release the brake lever. This will help suck fluid down into the bore of the M/C. Repeat the process, but note that there will now be fluid, so watch out for spray. When you think you have gotten most of the air out, put the brake line back on and continue with the Mity-Vac at the bleeder nipples on the calipers.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)Comment
-
Always good to bench bleed first, as mentioned already, if you can.
If the master cyl. is purged of air then it is easier to bleed through the nipples.
I also use teflon tape on the threads.Comment
Comment