After a lot of work and money...it's official--no front brake at all

[oldrookie]

Okay, thanks for the suggestions.

I'll follow up on these tips this evening after work.

Thank you for all the help.

[oldrookie]

Went out and messed with it a few minutes ago.

The piston was pretty far out and the caliper was not moving.

I took the caliper off, compressed the piston and pumped the handle. The piston moves, but only a little.

I'll take a video this evening and post it up. I think you guys are on the right track, but I've never seen one work correctly, so I'll wait until you see what is going on before I trade this bike off for a skateboard in a black fit of despair. It will be a close thing.

[barnbiketom]

I still feel there's air in the system, OR the 'other ' MC is crap and your first one, you just didn't bleed right.

On all my MCs if the cover is off and I squeeze the lever IT DOES make a fluid spout into the air. That is normal at least on 50 or so I remember but correct me if I am wrong somebody. and the brakes worked great when doing this. I think that is a release port that will squirt untill it is completely closed off by the MC piston.

If the lever is limp, you have air. if it's tight it's working or you have binding or a restriction.

On a system I just put onto the GS400. I had a firm lever but no front brake at all.
It ended up being a lump of dirt in the hose end right inside the banjo crimp.. weirdest thing i ever saw so MAKE SURE your hose is open too.

[Agemax]

maybe worth a go, i had trouble bleeding my rear caliper, new piston seals, s/s line, new seals in m/c but would it bleed??????? no.
i could see the piston moving in and out but it just would not build up pressure on the disc.
after countless tries, with no success i tried "speed bleeding", topped the m/c right up and had the wife(?) there keeping it topped up.
pumped the lever until it wouldnt pump any more pressure then cracked the bleeder and frantically pumped and pumped on the lever, topping up m/c as needed.
after about 20-30 pumps air appeared in the bleeder hose so i kept going until no air came out.
hey presto, locked up the bleeder and the lever was solid as a rock when pressed

[chuck hahn]

Adrian...he stated in the original post he used stainless lines, so i assume they were new.

[Agemax]

Adrian...he stated in the original post he used stainless lines, so i assume they were new.

yes i saw that, i was just stating that i had a stainless line also.

[chuck hahn]

Wonder if the holes in the banjo bolts themselves may be clogged??? Clogged up bleeder valves too?

[allojohn]

Has anyone mentioned cleaning out the return breather hole with a strand of wire? If this breather is not open the M/C will never work correctly.

[chuck hahn]

Dont know...he did say theres not that little return spurt from this 550 master like there was on his 650 master. heres how i clear clogged bleedes though..heat them real good with a propane toch and quench in water. Do this twice and then blow compressed air thru the passages. The heat and quench breaks all rust and corrosion out instantly

[oldrookie]

Well, some brake pressure this morning, but if it follows its usual pattern it will gradually reduce. Exactly like the oem rebuilt MC--but perhaps a bit more lever travel at the highest pressure it builds.

Tempted to return to the OEM MC. At least I know the piston and cup set is new and it does give me a bit more brake pressure.

I checked the line when I had the system torn down. I blocked one end and applied a vacuum to the other end. It held the pressure with no leakdown.

Video uploading now. Will add link when it gets done.

As always, I really appreciate the time you have all taken to help figure this out.

[oldrookie]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jX3zKdOdjlA&feature=youtu.be

[john82q]

It can happen with new style braided lines that the inside is dry and repels brake fluid, the surface tension is such that the air bubble stays put stuck to a dry spot, as you bleed. The fluid flows around the bubble.

possible solutions;
- violent bleeding as agemax suggested.
or
- disconnect the line from caliper hold it as straight as possible above the MC, holding the banjo between thumb and finger to act like a one way valve,and pump MC till solid fluid emerges. It will be impossible to reconnect to calpier without air entering, however line is now wet all over inside and you know MC is pumping. bleed again.

[oldrookie]

It can happen with new style braided lines that the inside is dry and repels brake fluid, the surface tension is such that the air bubble stays put stuck to a dry spot, as you bleed. The fluid flows around the bubble.

possible solutions;
- violent bleeding as agemax suggested.
or
- disconnect the line from caliper hold it as straight as possible above the MC, holding the banjo between thumb and finger to act like a one way valve,and pump MC till solid fluid emerges. It will be impossible to reconnect to calpier without air entering, however line is now wet all over inside and you know MC is pumping. bleed again.

Well, that is an interesting post. Haven't heard that theory to date and I have spent a LOT of time researching the issue. Certainly might explain what I have been dealing with.

I'm game to give anything a try. I want brakes. Call me crazy, but I do.

I am just about become all about violent bleeding as well.

[mrbill5491]

Don't know...I installed new SS lines and banjos and crush washers. I cracked open the bleeders and filled the reservoir with fluid. I then let the fluid work its way down to the caliper. After about 10 minutes of that, I bled the front brakes out in no time maybe 10 minutes with no problems. I have a good solid lever to boot. Rear brake took even less time. No bleed down or anything. Oh my calipers and MC have not been rebuilt expect for a new reservoir on the MC, that is pretty much it.

[JEEPRUSTY]

Nice term "violent bleeding"
I have always done mine that way in MCs and in other vehicles and it has always worked.

I get a buddy to pump the lever briskly then squeeze the lever all the way in.
Then I crack the bleeder to let the pressuirized liquid out.
Close the bleeder and have the buddy repeat the process till the air is gone.

Make sure the res is topped off and level and its should work.