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Uh-Oh..I snapped a front wheel cap stud!
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slyone
Uh-Oh..I snapped a front wheel cap stud!
Stupid me! I over-torqued the front wheel nut/studs and snapped one off at the fork..wtf! I've never had success with easyouts either. Dam I wanted to go riding tomorrow and Sunday too! Suggestions? Thanks..Last edited by Guest; 11-09-2012, 10:55 PM.Tags: None
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35640
- Torrance, CA
I recommend LH drill bits. Start small and make sure you find center. Walk the bit around until the hole is centered and then move to the next larger size. If you are careful and stay centered, then work your way larger, the nub will spin out by itself before you hit threads.
Edit: now that we can see the photo it's clear that drilling is not necessary. Using heat and vice grips should be adequate.Last edited by Nessism; 11-10-2012, 08:38 AM.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Heat the fork area around it with something that wont destroy the clearcoat..if there is any. They have a drop of loctite on them from the factory. Heat will soften the loctite so it will unscrew easier. Get metricv exhaust header studs as replacements. Available at any auto parts store.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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slyone
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SqDancerLynn1
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Originally posted by slyone View PostI took it off and posted a pic, eveidently not flush.. but she's in there! Ya know what else, I do have air suspension but no air was inside..PO had just had the forks/seals rebuilt too?Rob
1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533
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Ya you've got a real bugger of a problem there, been there, done that but couldn't fix that. You've got some good tips though, let us know how it works out.Rob
1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533
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Looking at your picture, I would just heat it up and turn it out with some vice grips1984 GS1100GK newest addition to the heard
80 GS 1000gt- most favorite ride love this bike
1978 GS1000E- Known as "RoadKill" , Finished :D
83 gs750ed- first new purchase
85 EX500- vintage track weapon
1958Ducati 98 Tourismo
“Remember When in doubt use full throttle, It may not improve the situation ,but it will end the suspense ,
If it isn't going to make it faster or safer it isn't worth doing
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barnbiketom
Try to unscrew it with visegrips first. Apply even and firm pressure just don't do too much if at first if won't move. just keep even pressure on it and I think it will eventually untighten in a few seconds. go easy upping the pressure gradually, but not to that point of brakeage.. experience here. if you aren't comfortable/ feel it will break with how much it takes, then heat is next.
If so you should just heat the screw itself. the heat will transfer into the threads and soften the locktite that they used. not too much heat as to swell up the screw. no damage to finish this way.
No need to heat the aluminum lower fork leg at all. it should screw out.
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All I have is a little propane tank torch also and it all ive ever needed working on a bike.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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Originally posted by chuck hahn View PostAll I have is a little propane tank torch also and it all ive ever needed working on a bike.
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slyone
Fixed! just went to suzuki dealer and guy had it out before I could finish my smoke! was outside so not sure on his approach but I'm happy again..
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Next time you remove or tighten the nuts, do them a little at a time and evenly from side to side..and look at the gap where the fork and caps meet. That should be as close to equal on each side as you can get it by eyeballing that gap. The caps tend to tweek and put bending pressures on the studs if you go too much unevenly.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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