Emergency Fork Oil Question

[Gregory]

78 gs1000 e

I just changed out my seals according to the basscliff files. ... but i may have done something wrong.

After completely reassembling the forks, I put them on the bike loosly bolted, put tire on loosly. (springs are extended)

To add oil, I took off the cap and removed the spacer, spring top, and spring. I added exactly 251 ml. Poured right in top of tube.

Everything I read says it will take a long time to get all the fluid in, but mine of course all went in fine. (the whole inner tube is empty)

Should I have filled the bottom/outer tube before reassembling?

I am confused. Any good advise?

[Agemax]

put the spring back in and the level should rise. you will see it if you shine a torch down through the spring.
extend the fork leg before fitting in the spring or it may overflow over the top!
you have assembled it correctly

[Gregory]

Thanks AgeMax man it is good to hear back so soon because I am right in the middle of it.

if i can get the spring and spacer etc back in without the oil coming out the top...can i go ahead and put the cap back on and give them some air?

[Agemax]

Thanks AgeMax man it is good to hear back so soon because I am right in the middle of it.

if i can get the spring and spacer etc back in without the oil coming out the top...can i go ahead and put the cap back on and give them some air?

yes, i edited the 1st post, extend the fork leg before dropping in the spring, then put the spacer and cap back on

[mike_of_bbg]

The oil will never come up to the top. There's air trapped above the oil, which is like another spring. That's why you want to get the two forks as even in fluid level as possible - to keep the air volume the same. Whether or not you add air is up to you. A few SLOW pumps of the forks should evacuate most of the air from the lowers.

Thanks AgeMax man it is good to hear back so soon because I am right in the middle of it.

if i can get the spring and spacer etc back in without the oil coming out the top...can i go ahead and put the cap back on and give them some air?

[Gregory]

Thanks bud, I owe ya one.

I do have another question I have been pondering regarding this fork rebuild.

At the bottom of the inner tube there is damper rod, which has a short spring that slides up and down on it. It appears to me that nothing rests on the spring and the damper rod is a fixed tube. What does that spring do and how does it do it?

[Steve]

At the bottom of the inner tube there is damper rod, which has a short spring that slides up and down on it. It appears to me that nothing rests on the spring and the damper rod is a fixed tube. What does that spring do and how does it do it?

If it is all assembled correctly, that spring will be trapped between the damper rod and the fork tube. It will be called into duty when the forks are fully-extended and will cushion them from clanging to a sudden stop.


Regarding the fork oil level, ... the PROPER way to add oil is to have the fork tubes off the bike, spring removed, tube held vertical, fully compressed, then filled to a specified distance from the top. That distance will vary from bike to bike, but is around 6 inches.

By measuring the oil level, it will take into account the possibility that you might have not drained ALL the oil out of the forks before refilling them. It does not matter how much you left in there, but you might not have to add the full amount to get it to that 6 inch level below the top.

.

[Gregory]

Thanks Steve. Fortunately I cleaned everything spotless before putting it back together, so I hope my measuring is ok.

I'm still not understanding about how that thing works, but will trust it does.

When the forks are fully extended, the threaded end of the damper rod is at the base of the inner fork correct? The spring is in between the threaded end at bottom of the inner tube and the larger end of the damper.

maybe i can find a picture

[Steve]

Basically, the damper rod forms a "T" coming up from the bottom of the lower tube. The upper tube has a hole that is large enough to slide over the long part of the damper, but won't fit over the top. The little spring should be trapped between the top of the "T" and the bottom of the upper tube, so when the fork gets extended, the spring is compressed to cushion the sudden stop at FULL extension.

.

[Gregory]

Basically, the damper rod forms a "T" coming up from the bottom of the lower tube. The upper tube has a hole that is large enough to slide over the long part of the damper, but won't fit over the top. The little spring should be trapped between the top of the "T" and the bottom of the upper tube, so when the fork gets extended, the spring is compressed to cushion the sudden stop at FULL extension.

.

AHA!!! Thank you for your patience with me.. I get it now.

I didnt realize the damper went through the bottom, but now do see that it absolutely has to.

I've had a long day and my mind hasnt been working at top speed. Now that the forks are done it is on to front wheel bearings

Thanks again and have a great holiday!

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Did you check your manual to be sure of the fork oil amounts and level? Not all GS bikes are the same. Did you use a spray bottle pump to check the level in the forks? Cut the stem to the proper level and pump out the excess.





Add the oil, pump the tubes a few times, check the level. Do all this before you put the springs in and mount them in the triple tree. Check the level with the tubes fully compressed. Hopefully this was explained properly in the guides.

Fork Seal Replacement (mine)

Fork Seal Replacement (by Mr. Matchless)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Gregory]

Thanks BassCliff

I was going to do that but in your sheet it said 140mm and i did not have anything that long, so i just measured out exactly 251ml.

my bike is a 1978 GS1000 e

BTW: I saw in your rebuild that you added a small length of PVC pipe (i am assuming to strngthen/stiffen the springs). In that paper I vould not find it mentioned or what length and size.