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I haven't seen any posts about it being done this way, so here we go. The forks came off of a 1983 GS750es, but I believe that any set of forks with the external anti-dive units would be done the same way. Just so you know, I needed to totally rebuild my forks anyways (seals, bushings, springs & oil), so I figured that I might as well eliminate the anti-dive.
First off, the part that makes it all work is right below. On the left side is the factory base valve that forces oil to route through the anti-dive unit. On the right side is one that I have already cut down on a lathe. Like that, the oil would not be forced to go through the anti-dive unit and that's all you really need to do.
At that point your done ~ really!
Now you only need to decide what to do about the external units that are no longer needed. In my case I decided to just machine up some flat plates, ummm ~ without the groove (it's not needed with this mod) and toss the anti-dives. Here you go.
While I was at it I decided to eliminate the factory air balance tube (mine leaked) and modify the factory caps to accept automotive wheel schraders. I'm not sure if I'll need to add air (I changed fork springs too), but I can if I need to.
Welded tubes:
Modified fork caps:
Decided to go with Works Performance dual rate springs which have a base rate that's about 50% higher than stock, they also come with a new top out spring (that's the really small one) to make up for the newer heavier spring rate. Also note that the "medium small" spring has a spacer next to it and a couple of washers, this setup is designed so that you can tune in how much anti-dive you want because once the medium spring is fullly collaspsed against the spacer the large main spring will be doing all the work. The "tuning" is done by using a longer or shorter internal spacers. Also note that not shown (forgot to take a picture) is a spacer that I cut that'll apply about a ½" of preload on the spring. I'm not sure how much I'll need, but it's a start.
Comments or suggestions??
First off, the part that makes it all work is right below. On the left side is the factory base valve that forces oil to route through the anti-dive unit. On the right side is one that I have already cut down on a lathe. Like that, the oil would not be forced to go through the anti-dive unit and that's all you really need to do.
At that point your done ~ really!
Now you only need to decide what to do about the external units that are no longer needed. In my case I decided to just machine up some flat plates, ummm ~ without the groove (it's not needed with this mod) and toss the anti-dives. Here you go.
While I was at it I decided to eliminate the factory air balance tube (mine leaked) and modify the factory caps to accept automotive wheel schraders. I'm not sure if I'll need to add air (I changed fork springs too), but I can if I need to.
Welded tubes:
Modified fork caps:
Decided to go with Works Performance dual rate springs which have a base rate that's about 50% higher than stock, they also come with a new top out spring (that's the really small one) to make up for the newer heavier spring rate. Also note that the "medium small" spring has a spacer next to it and a couple of washers, this setup is designed so that you can tune in how much anti-dive you want because once the medium spring is fullly collaspsed against the spacer the large main spring will be doing all the work. The "tuning" is done by using a longer or shorter internal spacers. Also note that not shown (forgot to take a picture) is a spacer that I cut that'll apply about a ½" of preload on the spring. I'm not sure how much I'll need, but it's a start.
Comments or suggestions??
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