Suspension for 1982 GS1100GL

[Guest]

Ok I have searched and read about suspension. I have read some good and bad about Progressive, good about Hagon, a mention about Ikon, Works etc..

I am looking at the Hagon site now and it only lists shocks for the E/S/ES. are these the same for my 1982 GS1100GL?

Any suggestions on any of these. My riding style would probably be more on the aggressive side if that means any thing.

Thanks All!!

Jay

[Steve]

Not quite the same shocks. The E, S and ES have eye/fork attachments on top/bottom, you need eye/eye. Stock length is 330mm.

Progressive is not so bad, but you might want to opt for the "heavy-duty" springs.

Hagons have a good reputation, I think you have to call to order them, which means they will be customized to YOU.

IKONs are not bad, not sure how easily they are found.

MDIs are cheap Chinese shocks that are sprung SUPER heavy. If you can get them to compress, the damping is not all that bad.

.

[bwringer]

You might need to make sure you're looking at the site for the US distributor of Hagons.

http://www.davequinnmotorcycles.com/

Call Dave, tell him what you ride, how you ride, and your approximate weight, and he'll make you a nice set of shocks.


You'll also want to get the front end sorted, of course. I HIGHLY recommend Sonic straight-rate springs for the "assertive" rider -- they're on all my bikes: http://sonicsprings.com

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. JustRide,

You'll see my tires and suspension in my sig. The cheap MDI/EMGO shocks work but are really stiff. I'm saving my gig money for some Hagons.

The "mega-welcome" link below has our favorite suspension links.

If you are here you probably have a 30 year old motorcycle that needs about 20 years worth of maintenance. You'll find all kinds of helpful tips, procedures, manuals, diagrams, "how-to" guides, etc, in the links below. Let's get started.

Let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'.

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...



Please Click Here For Your Mega-Welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[JustRide]

BassCliff,

Bike has 2500 miles on it. I know this is not necessarily a good thing. Bike runs clean with no smoke.

Seller said he did he following:
Clean tank
clean and tuned Carbs
new oil and filter

This is what I have planned out o the box.
Tires
New Brake pads and rebuild calipers
Shocks
Fork service and upgrade springs and add Race Tech valves
Dealer service
replace gear oil in shaft
few cosmetic things as well.

I would love to send you some pictures for you to look at and give me your opinion on what else you might see that needs attention now.

This site has been a great help so far and I appreciate the help. I have learned over the years to learn from others and to try an not make mistakes that other people have made.

Thanks, Jay

[Steve]

Skip the "dealer service" and do it yourself.

If you have the capability to do your own fork service and brake work, you can also adjust the valves, which is all the dealer is going to do.

Depending on how much you trust the previous owner , you may also want to "clean and tune" your own carbs. Not hard or expensive, just takes a little time.

.

[cowboyup3371]

I will second on calling Dave Quinn for the hagon shocks; well worth the time

[JustRide]

I will do all the work myself. I just thought it would be good to have the dealer do a good once over to get me started. I a very familiar with the dealer so I know I get what I pay for.

Jay

[JustRide]

So it seems I need the 1.0 fork springs. I was going to add the Race Tech fork valves because I am afraid the stock wont handle the increased spring ad cause a lack of rebound damping.

Anyone know if the stock valving will handle a 1.0 spring rate.

[bwringer]

So it seems I need the 1.0 fork springs. I was going to add the Race Tech fork valves because I am afraid the stock wont handle the increased spring ad cause a lack of rebound damping.

Anyone know if the stock valving will handle a 1.0 spring rate.

I have the 1.1 springs on my GS850G, and damping is fine with 10W fork oil.

I used to run Progressive springs, which were far too weak for my lard ass (had to use a LOT of preload to get sag right), and I used a mix of 15W and 20W fork oil to achieve decent control with the too-soft springs.

With all the above said, the valves supposedly improve things even further. I haven't tried them -- to me, the bike's handling limits are more in frame and fork flex.

If you wanted to try it without the valves first before spending the $$$, it certainly won't be horrible, and you won't feel like anything is missing. If you want the ultimate right off the bat, then install the valves.

[bwringer]

I will do all the work myself. I just thought it would be good to have the dealer do a good once over to get me started. I a very familiar with the dealer so I know I get what I pay for.

Jay

Unless the only person that will touch your bike is a grizzled old-timer who used to hang out with Pops Yoshimura every weekend, don't do it. That way lies only madness, despair and ruin.

[bwringer]

Also, make sure you replace the craptastic bullet connectors for your stator (solder direct or use spade connectors and a high-quality ratcheting crimper), bypass the stator loop up to the headlight, AND inspect and clean EVERY electrical connection on the bike. Takes maybe two hours total, and will save so much trouble later on.

[Steve]

I will do all the work myself. I just thought it would be good to have the dealer do a good once over to get me started. I a very familiar with the dealer so I know I get what I pay for.

Nice to see that you know a dealer well, but have you talked with that dealer about your bike?

I ask because many dealers don't even want a bike that old darkening the doorway. Too many times, bolts are stuck or break off, requiring a LOT more time than the flat-rate manual allows, and when they try to charge "time and materials", the cost goes past the value of the bike VERY quickly.

.

[JustRide]

Yes I spoke with the service manager and he said it would not be an issue.

Nice to see that you know a dealer well, but have you talked with that dealer about your bike?

I ask because many dealers don't even want a bike that old darkening the doorway. Too many times, bolts are stuck or break off, requiring a LOT more time than the flat-rate manual allows, and when they try to charge "time and materials", the cost goes past the value of the bike VERY quickly.

.

[JustRide]

Just talked to Dave and ordered a set of shocks. Thanks for all the help all. You have been a big help with me sorting this thing out.

Jay