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Removing front fork caps GS1000.

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    Removing front fork caps GS1000.

    Tricky problem GSr's.

    My 1981 GS1000E has blown both front fork seals.

    I need to get the top tube cap off that holds all the air system. These have no spanner hold and I do not want to use a set of mole grips that will leave teeth marks or anything that may crack or break the cap.

    According to Suzuki these caps are no longer available as parts!!!!

    Any top tips before I admit defeat and take the forks to the garage and let a monkey work on them.

    I am having to replace the tubes too hence the complete strip of the forks.

    Cheers
    SM

    #2
    you will find a 17mm open ended spanner will work on those for tops i believe.
    1978 GS1085.

    Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

    Comment


      #3
      I'm guessing that its best to leave them bolted in the yokes (tripple trees) to loosen them off. They've only got an 'o' ring underneath to seal them so shouldnt be too tight. (These seem very tight hence the mole grips idea and I have no idea how long they have been on the tubes.)

      Comment


        #4
        loosen the top clamp but of course leave the lower clamp up tight then undo the cap. Have you thought about upgrading to just springs and having no air in the system as it puts added pressure on the seals

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          #5
          Originally posted by sharpy View Post
          loosen the top clamp but of course leave the lower clamp up tight then undo the cap. Have you thought about upgrading to just springs and having no air in the system as it puts added pressure on the seals
          NO!!!!!

          I like them just as they came out of the factory. Sad but its how I like my bikes, standard.

          Comment


            #6
            Just break the tops loose and remove the forks but dont disassemble them.

            Next, use the impact to get the allen head out from the bottom and THEN you do the disassembling of the cap ect etc. An air impact work perfectly for the allen head bolt removal. Blaht Blaht and its out. And there shoulkd be drains at the bottom. open them and pump the fork in a bucket to get most oil out. Stick the fork in and lean down on the top and pump them till they spurt air, and remember that if theres air in them when you open the drains..its comming out like an oil squirt gun so relieve any air pressure before opening.
            Last edited by chuck hahn; 10-12-2013, 06:46 PM.
            MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
            1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

            NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


            I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by sharpy View Post
              loosen the top clamp but of course leave the lower clamp up tight then undo the cap. Have you thought about upgrading to just springs and having no air in the system as it puts added pressure on the seals
              My experience is that having air in the system avoids leakage. My fork seals will weep with zero air pressure but don't at 11 psi.
              NO PIC THANKS TO FOTO BUCKET FOR BEING RIDICULOUS

              Current Rides: 1980 Suzuki GS1000ET, 2009 Yamaha FZ1, 1983 Honda CB1100F, 2006 H-D Fatboy
              Previous Rides: 1972 Yamaha DS7, 1977 Yamaha RD400D, '79 RD400F Daytona Special, '82 RD350LC, 1980 Suzuki GS1000E (sold that one), 1982 Honda CB900F, 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R

              Comment


                #8
                My brother used a 12 volt air compressor to blow the seals out, and changed them without dismantling the forks. It was an 1100G

                As to air in the forks and seals blowing, I typically run in the high 20's to low 30s PSI in my forks without any problems whatsoever, and have done so for the best part of a decade. This is on a decent number of bikes.
                sigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by 1980GS1000E View Post
                  My experience is that having air in the system avoids leakage. My fork seals will weep with zero air pressure but don't at 11 psi.
                  are you using progressive springs?
                  Rob
                  1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
                  Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by 850 Combat View Post
                    My brother used a 12 volt air compressor to blow the seals out, and changed them without dismantling the forks. It was an 1100G `
                    I could shove a screw in the seal and pull them but the tubes have pitted so badly that putting a new seal on will just ruin then before I can ride the bike so I need to change the tubes too. That means the whole thing has to be broken down.

                    I've been putting it off for a year now......

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by azr View Post
                      are you using progressive springs?
                      What ever was in the bike when I bought it used. What diff would it make as to seals?
                      NO PIC THANKS TO FOTO BUCKET FOR BEING RIDICULOUS

                      Current Rides: 1980 Suzuki GS1000ET, 2009 Yamaha FZ1, 1983 Honda CB1100F, 2006 H-D Fatboy
                      Previous Rides: 1972 Yamaha DS7, 1977 Yamaha RD400D, '79 RD400F Daytona Special, '82 RD350LC, 1980 Suzuki GS1000E (sold that one), 1982 Honda CB900F, 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R

                      Comment

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