Need help setting Air Level in Forks

[Guest]

Greetings,

I'm having some difficulty getting my fork air levels to within factory spec.
More than anything - if I can actually get air to stay IN how do I make sure they're both at the same level?

I am trying to figure out if I can build a line to tie them both together, or if there's an easier way to do this.

I cannot afford the progressive springs at the moment.

edit - Is the air really even necessary?

[oldgrumpy]

do away with the air set up in forks ,,, yuk yuk yuk

Greetings,

I'm having some difficulty getting my fork air levels to within factory spec.
More than anything - if I can actually get air to stay IN how do I make sure they're both at the same level?

I am trying to figure out if I can build a line to tie them both together, or if there's an easier way to do this.

I cannot afford the progressive springs at the moment.

edit - Is the air really even necessary?

.........hi i,d do away with the air ,,flush and refill your forks with new oil,, then remove and plug the valves and a cheap way is use a bit of plastic pipe as a pre-load spacer ,,that works well ,,untill you have the cash for progressive springs regards oldgrumpy

[Call Me Ahab]

.........hi i,d do away with the air ,,flush and refill your forks with new oil,, then remove and plug the valves and a cheap way is use a bit of plastic pipe as a pre-load spacer ,,that works well ,,untill you have the cash for progressive springs regards oldgrumpy

Great! what measurement(lengthwise) do I want to use for that spacer?

Oil already replaced, was struggling with the air level. Thanks grumpy

[robertbarr]

To actually answer your question --

I used a portable air tank. Inflate the tank to the pressure you want in your forks. Then, rather than trying to apply an air chuck for a split second, just hold the air tank's chuck on the valve for a second on each fork. You won't bleed off enough air from the first fork to influence the tank's pressure, and the two will be at the same pressure (plus or minus some infinitesimal amount).

You could also use an air compressor and run it until you're just at the pressure you want.

[subid]

I use one of these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Shock-Pump-60-PSI-Metal-Handle-Harley-Davidson-Touring-Rear-Suspension-/400582660029?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AHarley-Davidson&hash=item5d44964fbd&vxp=mtr

[Charlie G]

I use one of these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Shock-Pu...964fbd&vxp=mtr

That looks like the ticket. I bought a bicycle suspension pump and put a 0-30psi gauge on it. I run (or use to) 12lbs on my 650g, it made a difference. I upgraded to cartidge emulators this last summer. I don't use air any longer.

[Call Me Ahab]

That looks like the ticket. I bought a bicycle suspension pump and put a 0-30psi gauge on it. I run (or use to) 12lbs on my 650g, it made a difference. I upgraded to cartidge emulators this last summer. I don't use air any longer.

Ahh... I'm just using a regular old bicycle pump that doesnt register anything below 25psi...

I use one of these



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Shock-Pu...964fbd&vxp=mtr

Neat, that does indeed look handy - I'll likely try to pick one up if I can't figure out what to set those spacers at, thank you!

To actually answer your question --

I used a portable air tank. Inflate the tank to the pressure you want in your forks. Then, rather than trying to apply an air chuck for a split second, just hold the air tank's chuck on the valve for a second on each fork. You won't bleed off enough air from the first fork to influence the tank's pressure, and the two will be at the same pressure (plus or minus some infinitesimal amount).

You could also use an air compressor and run it until you're just at the pressure you want.

Air tank would probably be the way to go then, if that pump above doesn't work out. I've been using an air compressor, but my damn chuck leaks air so as soon as I put anything in it just leaks back out! Very annoying, that's why I was hoping there was an easier way - and as I see now, there is =]

Thanks to everyone who offered advice on this! I've finally got both bikes running the way they should be, the front forks were the final issue that needed to be fixed on the GS1000. Now to find a new from wheel... I do not like the 19 on the front, I want it more on par w/ the 850's 17. Too tall for me =\

[azr]

I've got a 1980 GS1000G that I took off a set up to equalize the air pressure between both forks. It's attached to the chrome/plastic gauge cover, you're basically just adding air to one port and it sends it to both springs. If you can't afford Progressives right now it's all yours. In fact, I'm going to be buying Progressive springs for my 1000G pretty soon and I've done the modification of cutting the stock springs and adding a spacer mod so you're welcome to those as well if it'll help you out, PM me if you're interested.

[mrbill5491]

You really don't need the air adjustment. I went with the Sonic .95kg springs and 20w syn fork oil.

[koolaid_kid]

.........hi i,d do away with the air ,,flush and refill your forks with new oil,, then remove and plug the valves and a cheap way is use a bit of plastic pipe as a pre-load spacer ,,that works well ,,untill you have the cash for progressive springs regards oldgrumpy

Great! what measurement(lengthwise) do I want to use for that spacer?

Oil already replaced, was struggling with the air level. Thanks grumpy

You cut the PVC pipe to give you the correct amount of pre-load sag. IIRC, it is around 1 to 1 1/2" , but your owner's manual or factory service manual will have it listed.
If it were my bike, I would start with around 1 to 2" of PVC pipe and go from there. Abandon the air and the cost of a different pump, save the money for a set of Sonic springs.

[Call Me Ahab]

I've got a 1980 GS1000G that I took off a set up to equalize the air pressure between both forks. It's attached to the chrome/plastic gauge cover, you're basically just adding air to one port and it sends it to both springs. If you can't afford Progressives right now it's all yours. In fact, I'm going to be buying Progressive springs for my 1000G pretty soon and I've done the modification of cutting the stock springs and adding a spacer mod so you're welcome to those as well if it'll help you out, PM me if you're interested.

Aha! that there sounds like what I was going to try to build, but after considering the recommendations I think I'm going to go with the PVC for now. New springs will come eventually, the biggest part right now is making sure that it's road worthy. I know my oil levels are right and that new oil and seals are in there, but I could not get that air level right to save my life.

PVC is how I'll resolve this one =]

You really don't need the air adjustment. I went with the Sonic .95kg springs and 20w syn fork oil.

I assume Sonic is the brand - I'm saving this in a "Post-It" on my desktop, that's going on the list. Thank you!

You cut the PVC pipe to give you the correct amount of pre-load sag. IIRC, it is around 1 to 1 1/2" , but your owner's manual or factory service manual will have it listed.
If it were my bike, I would start with around 1 to 2" of PVC pipe and go from there. Abandon the air and the cost of a different pump, save the money for a set of Sonic springs.

Sounds like a plan! I'm fairly light (160ish) and the bike is already higher than I like... So 1" sounds safe? I'll follow your word though and start off with a 2" and see how it feels. I can't take this one on the road yet so it's gonna be hard to get a feel for it. No insurance, no registration, no inspection. This is the GS1000 that was ill-maintained and set aside by the PO for years. Wasn't even running when I got it.

Anyways, back on topic. Would you recommend doing the same to the 850? My front suspension was always responsive and bouncy so I didn't bother w/ new seals, oil, or bothering the air pressure. Should I go ahead and vent the air and go with pvc as well? Or would this fall under "if it aint broke..."

[LarryJ]

I bought a suspension pump like subid linked to, except mine I'd 0-30psi. You pump up to what you want. It had. Precise bleed off valve & cuts off so quickly when you unscrew it, there is absolutely no pressure loser. Real slick!

[koolaid_kid]

Anyways, back on topic. Would you recommend doing the same to the 850? My front suspension was always responsive and bouncy so I didn't bother w/ new seals, oil, or bothering the air pressure. Should I go ahead and vent the air and go with pvc as well? Or would this fall under "if it aint broke..."

Not sure exactly what bouncy means, but yes, if you are using air in that bike as well, I would switch. Learn on the first bike and get it correct before you start on the second bike.
Look in your manual for the correct amount of preload sag, do not take my word for it.

[Call Me Ahab]

Not sure exactly what bouncy means, but yes, if you are using air in that bike as well, I would switch. Learn on the first bike and get it correct before you start on the second bike.
Look in your manual for the correct amount of preload sag, do not take my word for it.

Ah, I didn't realize there was a legitimate measurement for this, I thought it was approximated - thank you. I'll take my manual to class with me tonight and see what I can learn!

[mrbill5491]

Here ya go http://www.sonicsprings.com/catalog/