Shinko 230 sizing

[Guest]

Hello all, I am looking at some old tires that came with my bike and the rear is wayyyyy too slick for my comfort. I checked the manufacture date and they are almost 10 years old.

Anyways, not to post without doing a fair amount of research, I was initially leaning towards Pilot Activs just because I have a bit of loyalty to Michelins...they are just so expensive. I started reading your reviews of the Shinkos and it seems everyone is quite happy with them. I also like the look of the Michelin Anakee 2 & 3 but again, so expensive.

If I was to go with the 230's, what would be the best size to settle on for the rear? I currently have a 140/80 x 17 but I cant find that exact size. I have the original GS1100ES mag wheels. It looks like my only 17 inch option for a rear in that tire is the 130/90 x 17. I will lose a bit of width and probably end up about 5mm taller (130x.9=117 vs 140x.8=112) Is this the compromise you guys are making running these tires? Is it worth it? Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated! I finally got my bike going again yesterday and realized just how bad those tires are so I want to order something soon

[Nessism]

140 is too wide for the wheel.

[lurch12_2000]

I used a 130/90-17 rear on my GS1100ES and GS1100E models. If you do your research you'll actually find that the original tire size for those bikes was closer to a 120/90-17. And the Shinko 712 would probably be fine and less expensive unless you plan on doing 130mph+ speeds.

[last337]

Does that mean that those mags are already set up for tubeless tires? I couldnt find any marks saying they were. I havent pulled off the existing tires to see if there are tubes or not. I was planning on going ahead and putting tubes if I went with the Pilot Activs but it looks like all the Shinkos are tubeless.

[lurch12_2000]

The Shinko 712 or 230 will run tube or tubeless. Check your rim and it will be marked tubeless(being an '83 then the factory rim should be tubeless but PO's do funny things), if not then it's assumed a tube type rim. I ran all my GSes back to '78 models as tubeless. Clean the rim surface good where the bead contacts and install a tubeless valve stem properly. But it's YOUR choice...I made mine tubeless with tens of thousands of miles and different bikes without any issue.

[Griffin]

If your wheels are the original ones for the '83 1100E/ES, then they are tubeless. The way to tell is if they are the "double three spoke" style, like I have on my 700ES:




If they are the '82 and earlier "star spoke" style (like on my '82 650E), they may or may not be tubeless rated. I countersunk the rims using a homemade tool bwringer made to convert them from tubed stems to accepting tubeless stems:

[lurch12_2000]

Hey, that chain and sprocket look too clean. And I see you mounted a Shinko 712 on that 650E rear.

Again, I don't want to be accused of telling someone to go tubeless on a rim that is not marked tubeless, but I've used different brand tires as tubeless on different early GS models' rims not marked tubeless with lots of miles logged, over uneven gravel roads, hiting bad frost heaves at speed, triple digit speeds and with very little chicken strip without an issue. Make sure the tire is rated tubeless though and properly insert the tubeless valve stem like mentioned a few times. In fact the few flats I've had over the years have been with tubes inserted, mostly my fault with reusing the old tube after inspection or pinching the tube on installation and not knowing until the tire squirms at speed and losing pressure.

[Steve]

I currently have a 140/80 x 17 but I cant find that exact size. It looks like my only 17 inch option for a rear in that tire is the 130/90 x 17. I will lose a bit of width and probably end up about 5mm taller (130x.9=117 vs 140x.8=112) Is this the compromise you guys are making running these tires?

Actually, the 140/80 that is currently on your bike is a compromise.

As previously pointed out, the stock size is a bit smaller, and simply installing wider tires does not put any more rubber on the road. In fact, unless you also install wider rims, you will be putting LESS rubber on the road. The wider tire will be pinched into a tighter radius to fit the narrow rim, which leaves a narrower strip to hit the road.

.

[Griffin]

Hey, that chain and sprocket look too clean. And I see you mounted a Shinko 712 on that 650E rear.

They don't look that way now. That pic was taken right after I'd acquired the bike, and had just mounted new shocks, sprockets, and a drive chain on it. It was also the first time I tried Shinkos, because they made a rear tire skinny enough for those rims (110/90-18). I broke them in on a weekend GS group ride in Kentucky, and they held well all the way to the point that there are no "chicken strips" on them.

Again, I don't want to be accused of telling someone to go tubeless on a rim that is not marked tubeless, but I've used different brand tires as tubeless on different early GS models' rims not marked tubeless with lots of miles logged, over uneven gravel roads, hiting bad frost heaves at speed, triple digit speeds and with very little chicken strip without an issue. Make sure the tire is rated tubeless though and properly insert the tubeless valve stem like mentioned a few times. In fact the few flats I've had over the years have been with tubes inserted, mostly my fault with reusing the old tube after inspection or pinching the tube on installation and not knowing until the tire squirms at speed and losing pressure.

People have speculated about "porosity of the castings", the groove shape on the outer ring, etc...., but none of that has anything to do with whether the rim will seal without a tube in it.

The main difference between GS rims marked tubeless and those not marked is the hole for the valve stem. On those marked tubeless, the hole drilled in the casting is countersunk to accept a tubeless stem and seal around its o-ring. Those not marked tubeless have no such countersink, but rather just a hole drilled through the casting.

That doesn't mean you can't get a tubeless stem to seal (sometimes you can, sometimes you can't, sometimes it is a small leak that loses only a pound or two a week), but it does indicate it won't seal as tightly with a tubeless stem as a rim marked tubeless will seal.

Bwringer found a drill bit that countersinks the hole perfectly to accept tubeless stems. We have used it on my older rims (my '80 1000G used to leak about 2 lbs a week out of the back tire, a little less out of the front with no tubes in the tire). It works great.

I will give him a call and ask him where he found it. It was fairly expensive (like $25, I think), but you use it once on a wheel and it seals perfectly forever on tubeless stems.

[Nessism]

People have speculated about "porosity of the castings", the groove shape on the outer ring, etc...., but none of that has anything to do with whether the rim will seal without a tube in it.

The main difference between GS rims marked tubeless and those not marked is the hole for the valve stem. On those marked tubeless, the hole drilled in the casting is countersunk to accept a tubeless stem and seal around its o-ring.

True "tubeless" wheels have the "bumps" as shown. This keeps the tire seated on the bead in case of deflation - a safety feature. Tube type wheels do not have these extra bumps, thus the tire can come unseated more easily in case of deflation.

[ptexotik]

lasty , 120 is original size (as prev mentioned)
you'd need to switch rims to be able to go 140 (as below, (original rim being for 120 too))

[Griffin]

True "tubeless" wheels have the "bumps" as shown. This keeps the tire seated on the bead in case of deflation - a safety feature. Tube type wheels do not have these extra bumps, thus the tire can come unseated more easily in case of deflation.

Maybe on the later ones, but the "star spoke" rims on my '82 1100E were marked tubeless, and had the ridges inside.

I imagine that it was easier to alter the casting mold for them by simply putting the "tubeless" letters in the mold and not changing anything else on it (i.e. leaving the ridges in there, because they don't hurt anything). When the hole for the stem was drilled at a later time, the countersink drill bit was used instead of a straight drill bit to ensure a tubeless stem would seal correctly.

The '83 and later "double three spoke" rims were all tubeless from the start, so there would have been no reason to put the ridges in the mold to begin with, because that would make the mold more complex (and expensive) to create.

[last337]

I don't see any marks on the rim saying tubeless or anything. The closest thing I see to that is a stamp on the rim with TB on it.

[Griffin]

I don't see any marks on the rim saying tubeless or anything. The closest thing I see to that is a stamp on the rim with TB on it.

Once you get the tire, off, the stem hole will tell the story.

[Nessism]

Pretty sure the 1100E wheels are tube type. Suzuki shipped the bikes with tubes in them anyway.

Wheels that are set up for tubelsss with have those extra "bumps" and the wheels will have "tubeless tire applicable" cast into them, visible on the outside.