Hagon Shocks

[Seaking]

Time to shoot the puck and get a sticky thread on the go?

[Ecklund]

Bought a set of YSS shocks. Garbage. Bought a set of Hagons. Stiff and jarring as hell.

The 2810 series. Dave Quinn gave me a set of numbers regarding spring rate and body type (damping) and the folks at Hagon USA in San Marcos CA gave another set of numbers on springs and damper bodies. Who is right? Don't know. Not about to leap in be a tester I guess.

The information above, as written, is not useful to anybody. YSS and initial Hagon Shocks not identified. And with no information about me or from anyone perhaps attempting to get a decent set of shocks and not break the bank, the bike, or one's back, etc. Just thinking that input from members about the model of shock, GS, weight of rider, bike etc. Spring rate selected, riding style, maybe road conditions would make it so that we could be of service to each other here. And end up with shocks that work for us.

Thoughts?

Bought a set of progressives with thier 'HD' spring for the '81 1100e. The spring rate and damping of the shocks match the Racetech fork springs and emulators pretty well.

I'm about 6'1", don't carry a passenger too often and ride at the harder end of reasonable.

If I were smaller, didn't carry a passenger and wanted a plusher ride I'd say the 'normal' progressive spring would have been fine.

That's a lot of variables but hope its one more data point for your decision process.

[azr]

Sticky!!!!

[gsgeezer]

Thoughts?

Maybe this will help. It gives you most of the info you might want.

When I upgrade the suspension on bikes, especially old bikes that I've removed forty pounds of gee-gaws on, I take the bike to a scale and weigh it.

I know my weight, plus gear. And you have to decide how much time you spend slabbing at 55 mph, or going fast through the twisties.
Also, how much time you will have a passenger (pillion) or more gear and bags.

If your front and rear aren't balanced or you have chassis related problems that is going to make it hard to judge whether the rear shocks are working with you instead of against you. I have good tires that are the right size for the bike, and that seems to improve the feedback from the suspension, as well.

Most people, in the past, when I've asked about replacing the rear shocks on old bikes just tell me to get Ohlins, otherwise anything else will be a compromise.

http://www.suspensionshop.org/tech_suspension_setup.php

[gsgeezer]

I wish I could post about my personal experience with Hagon, but the only "aftermarket" suspension setpups I've had are from Progressive, Y.S.S., Works Performance, and Race-Tech.

I'm also lucky to have a company called Reactive-Suspension not too far away.
They help with anything, and don't try to sell you only one brand.
In fact, if you have a newer model bike he would just be re-valving.

He mainly does race setups, off and on road, but also orders parts or installs them and sets up your bike, if you want him too. He spends the summer at the track helping the racers. You could probably send him your shocks, if you need them modded.

If you want the most professional and unbiased, detailed suspension info, he is at: http://www.reactive-suspension.com/

(He is very up on the technical specs of Hagon and the other maker's shocks.)

[tkent02]

The biggest factor is that some riders seem to think you need a hard ride to go fast, probably a left over thought from the days of flexible frames, crap suspension, and crappier tires.

[gsgeezer]

The biggest factor is that some riders seem to think you need a hard ride to go fast, probably a left over thought from the days of flexible frames, crap suspension, and crappier tires.

That is a great point!

On several old bikes that I upgraded the suspension (and brakes) I was amazed to find out how comfy they were for long trips and still made it seem like I had a newer bike, in the corners.

[Ecklund]

Maybe this will help. It gives you most of the info you might want.

When I upgrade the suspension on bikes, especially old bikes that I've removed forty pounds of gee-gaws on, I take the bike to a scale and weigh it.

I know my weight, plus gear. And you have to decide how much time you spend slabbing at 55 mph, or going fast through the twisties.
Also, how much time you will have a passenger (pillion) or more gear and bags.

If your front and rear aren't balanced or you have chassis related problems that is going to make it hard to judge whether the rear shocks are working with you instead of against you. I have good tires that are the right size for the bike, and that seems to improve the feedback from the suspension, as well.

Most people, in the past, when I've asked about replacing the rear shocks on old bikes just tell me to get Ohlins, otherwise anything else will be a compromise.

http://www.suspensionshop.org/tech_suspension_setup.php

Mmm, Ohlins...

But even they are a compromise.

As GS people seem to be, well, frugal, a bunch many look for the least bad compromise for the lowest price.

The only data point I don't have for the progressives with the HD spring is mileage. But many other GSR people relay that they last at least as long as anything else in the price range.

The progressives appear to be the price vs performance standard the rest can be measured against.

[jeff.saunders]

We spent considerable time going through the springs for each model and reworked many of the 'base' Hagon setups after a lengthy dialog with the Hagon folks. The issue with the Hagon shock setup for some bikes was they had multiple models using the same shocks, but yet just one spring setup - and there's a big difference in the springs needed some of the bikes - especially when the weight of the bikes can vary so much. We ended up going down two full spring rates on some of the bikes!

Quinn was supposed to be the USA distributor - but he made no attempt to be a distributor - and numerous customers complained about him - to the point Hagon USA was setup to service the USA. Hagon USA is staffed by people working for Hagon.

[gsgeezer]

http://www.andersonqualityspring.com/products_suspension_springs.php

Here's a link to a spring maker, I know some riders on another forum that had new bikes with terrible shocks, are replacing their springs or getting shocks off of other bikes and modding them.

[jona]

Update. I got the shocks yesterday evening, I'm installing them today. Once I get a few rides on them I'll give an update.

[jona]

Just got done with a 80m ride. Ruidoso to Hondo on hwy 70 [smooth rode], then back hwy 380 [washboard/paved rode], springs set at soft, a tad stiff, but to my liking. Damping set at 1, a little pogo effect, reset damping to 5. I'll redo the ride again to see what that does. A little cool at 55F, no heated gear. Weight riding, 210lb, 5lb tank bag. Just slab riding, no hard cornering, yet.

[jona]

I checked the package, "spring weight for 75-100kg rider". I just called Dave Quinn to ask about spring rate, he is closed until 1/2/14. I am at the upper range of that, 210lb riding weight, and as stated I found them a tad stiff, but to my liking. So I guess someone much less than that may want to drop down on the spring rate. I increased the damping to 5 from 1, will likely be riding again 12/30 & 31. Will report on damping changes.

[jona]

Update.Did the same ride today with damping set at 5, too stiff. Half way through the ride I turned the damping down to 3, just right. Shock #2810. Front springs
progressive set #2 preload, damping set at 2.

[jona]

Update

Just got off the phone with Dave Quinn. He told me the standard damping rate for the clevis style shock is equal to the 6 setting on the adj. shock That would have been too much for me. So IMHO, the 2810 with the adj. damping is the only way to go. I never have a passenger, and only use saddle bags for about 20% of my total miles. Hope this helps someone make a choice.