Leaking fork seals

[JTGS850GL]

OK, both of my fork seals are leaking so I know I'm going to have to replace the seals. My plan is to disassemble the forks to do it because there is some pitting at the tripple clamp area of the forks and I don't want to slide the new seals over the rough area. My plan is to tare them down and clean them up. Sand down the pitted area (more for cosmetics) and make sure there are no pitted areas in the slide area.

My question is, what other components should I replace while in there? I was thinking of replacing the following:


Items #5 and #6

I was also thinking of replacing #18 but not sure if it's really required. I was also going to pick up a couple 8's and a 7 just in case I bugger up one.

Any suggestions on what else to pickup, replace or if I'm getting anything not needed?

Money is a little tight, but I'm planning on getting OEM for these parts since I don't want to have to do this again anytime soon. That is, unless some other after market components are recommended.

[mrbill5491]

Replace #21 for sure and might want to replace the top fork bushings (they sit right under the fork seal) as well, though your fiche doesn't show them. You'll have to go find then on a 80-83 there abouts GS1000 or 1100 model. Your forks are 37mm so anything listed in that size will fit.

[JTGS850GL]

Are those parts always in need of replacement? I've searched a bit on this forum and rarely find that those parts are replaced. How would I determine that they are needing replacement?

[tkent02]

Take a look and see what's worn. They don't all have bushings.

[JEEPRUSTY]

6 is a snap ring is it not?

I got all the internals for a fork rebuild only to discover I did not need part 6. Mine were just rusty and cleaned up fine.

[eil]

You have a 1980 850GL, right?

When I rebuilt my forks, the only things I replaced were the fork seals and fork oil. Consider disassembling the whole shebang and inspect everything for wear before ordering parts.

The only other thing I can think of worth mentioning is that the OEM seals are a bear to remove and install compared to squishy rubber aftermarket ones. (But they are supposed to last longer.)

[JTGS850GL]

My bike is a 1982 GLZ but the parts are the same as the 1980. I guess it makes most sense to just disassemble and go from there. I was just hoping to minimize the down time. I know I need the seals so I may just go ahead and just pick them up and hope for the best when I tare everything down.

[Gorminrider]

???"...Sand down the pitted area (more for cosmetics) and make sure there are no pitted areas in the slide area." ???
you sound like you know what I'm going to say, but that won't stop me!
sure ok, if you are going to paint that unused bit or whatever, but be careful in the "sealing" area...if you have some pits in the "sealing" area, use a straight flat whetstone to carefully smooth any pits around the curve of it. Don't try to "conform to the curve" with sandpaper in your hand as you will scratch it up and make it worse. I was told this and it is true.

added: did I say "gently use a straight flat fine whetstone"? I meant to.

[JTGS850GL]

Makes sense. My plan is to check for any pits in the slide area and then use the wet stone method to remove any that are there. Once everything is checked and filed I'll use some 2000 grit wet sand paper and a buffing wheel to finish up the job. Sound like a plan?

[mustangflyr]

I used Leak Proof moly fork seals on mine. Easy install and work great.

[JTGS850GL]

Picked up a free set of NOS K&L fork seals from a friend who had them in his tool chest for a couple years. Figure the price was right so I'll try those first.

Big thing now is to make sure the fork tubes are smooooooooth and nothing else needs to be replaced..