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    #31
    Originally posted by Rob S. View Post
    I'm convinced - I'm going to steel lines.

    What is that yummy-looking picture of below?

    Inside the steel-braided exterior, there's still rubber, right? It just can't expand because of the steel exterior?
    Teflon covered with a stainless steel braided covering. Crud doesn't like to stick to teflon.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

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      #32
      My line does not look as bad as Nessism...but I'm glad I'm changing it.






      Ed
      GS750TZ V&H/4-1, Progressive Shocks, Rebuilt MC/braided line, Tarozzi Stabilizer[Seq#2312]
      GS750TZ Parts Bike [Seq#6036]
      GSX-R750Y (Sold)

      my opinion shouldn't be taken as gospel or in any way that would lead you to believe otherwise (30Sep2021)

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        #33
        The other thing you not getting, its that the return port or compensation port is tiny, 1/2 mm or so in diameter. When it clogs, brake fluid cannot return from the caliper to the master cylinder to release the brakes. Whatever fluid is in the caliper stays there. Now add heat. Everything expands with heat, brake fluid is no exception. So a tiny bit of brake drag makes a tiny bit of heat, wihich expands the brake fluid a tiny bit, now the brakes are dragging a little bit more making a little bit more heat. The brake gets tighter and tighter, making more and more heat. More brake drag makes more heat, whih makes more brake drag. Simple concept. The end result is a locked wheel and a busted ass. This can even happen if you haven't touched the brake at all.
        Rust particles, or the brown sugar looking stuff that brake fluid turns into after decades in a water contaminated brake system, either one can block this tiny port. Keep the brakes clean inside.

        Do you feel lucky?
        Last edited by tkent02; 01-15-2014, 12:49 AM.
        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

        Life is too short to ride an L.

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          #34
          My brakelines have the date on it. The bike is from 84 and the brakelines are from 82. And I just bought it like this. Always maintained by the dealer and I believe the old man I bought it from.. Nice clean brake fluid but 32 year old brakelines. So I know what I am changing this winter.
          I prefer changing brake fluid every year so mine never gets dirty really. And even if it didn't get dirty it requires changing because it attracts water. And most of it will collect around the caliper pistons and cause corrosion .

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            #35
            I guess it's time I got back to my brake job. I picked up an entire system from an 1100, slotted rotors, bigger pads, etc. Disassembled & bead-blasted and painted everything. Bought rebuild kits for the whole system, along with new pads. All I need to get is new lines. It's all been in a box for more than a year. I work too much.

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              #36
              Originally posted by Rob S. View Post
              I keep reading about braided steel brake lines. That they perform better (don't expand) AND look better. That's a pretty convincing argument in my book.

              However, my stock ones ('82 1100e) work fine and look good (the engine and headers are also black). I've only had her for 500 miles now, and that's after a 24-year hiatus, so I haven't really gotten into any situations where I needed to grab (& step on) a lot of brakes.

              Should I spend my money elsewhere?
              Hi

              The standard brakelines are great when they are new. No upgrade required. But when they are old and they hav't been replaced yet you are riding with the risk of ending up without brakes or a leak when you don't want one. And you know what brake fluid will do to your bike?
              The standard brakelines will even be more expensive so why not go for the braided steel.

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