Best way to remove for seals?

[Guest]

Working on a 79 gs750L and ive drained the fluid, removed the springs and the clip under the dust cover, but now i can't get the fork seal out. I've read the TUT but the forks don't have the air stems.

Any tips on this, or how do you remove them? Thanks!

[sharpy]

have to undo the allen bold under the fork leg to pull the forks apart to replace the seals.. If no rattle gun. i think a tube spanner like this with a 17MM nut on the end will hold the damper rod so the bolt can undo...

[azr]

Nice tool. If you can't set that nice system up you can buy a length threaded steel and four nuts, two at each end. One fits into the fork into the dampner and the other you turn with a wrench while having an allen head socket in the bottom of the fork. Somewhere on the site is a good write up on making the tool with a clear picture of what it is. Works like a charm. Make sure you soak those allen bolts on the bottom of the fork with a good deruster the night before. Some people also seem to manage shoving a wooden broom handle down the inside of the fork and forcing it into the dampner to hold it.

[tkent02]

If you loosen the damper rod bolts before removing the fork springs the spring tension will usually hold it from turning while you use an impact gun on the bolts.

[SVSooke]

I used a reversed spark plug socket and all the extensions in my possession to stop the damper from moving on my 78 1000.On most of my others tkent's "trick" worked but not on that set of fork legs.

[Steve]

Nice tool. If you can't set that nice system up you can buy a length threaded steel and four nuts, two at each end. One fits into the fork into the dampner and the other you turn with a wrench while having an allen head socket in the bottom of the fork. Somewhere on the site is a good write up on making the tool with a clear picture of what it is.

Yep, it will look like this when you are done:





Since SAE hardware is easier to find at places like Lowe's and Home Depot, get a 2' section of 1/2" threaded rod and four nuts to fit it.

Be prepared for the cost, though, it might run you five or six dollars.

If you leave an inch or so of rod sticking out past the nut, it will be easier to locate the top of the damper rod and drop into it.

.

[bonanzadave]

Working on a 79 gs750L

You might be OK with that bike but on mine there was some hard core loctite on the threads. The regular "L" allan wrench wouldnt budge them and it was a standard wrench that fit a bit loose. Had to go get a metric allan socket and an impact. Also had to get two new bolts after I rounded the socket heads out. Only place I could find to get them was Suzuki.

[Maddevill]

After you get the allen bolts out of the bottom of the fork, you use the slider like a slide hammer to knock the seals up and out. Just push the slider in then pull it out rapidly. The lower bushing should knock the seal loose. On rare occasions the seal can be really stuck. Then apply some heat where the seal sits and continue with the slide/ pull.

[Jcgonzal]

Yep, it will look like this when you are done:





Since SAE hardware is easier to find at places like Lowe's and Home Depot, get a 2' section of 1/2" threaded rod and four nuts to fit it.

Be prepared for the cost, though, it might run you five or six dollars.

If you leave an inch or so of rod sticking out past the nut, it will be easier to locate the top of the damper rod and drop into it.

.

Does this trick not work on GS1100 forks? I have the top spacer, washer, and spring out, and went and bought a 1/2" threaded rod with the four nuts, but when I stick the rod into the fork it doesn't seem to engage anything. Looking at a parts diagram it looks like there is another washer underneath the spring, but I shook the hell out of it and nothing came out. Am I doing something wrong, or does the 1100 have a different style damper rod?

[1980GS1000E]

Can't you just blast out the fork seals with air pressure? After removing the clips, of course.

[eil]

Can't you just blast out the fork seals with air pressure? After removing the clips, of course.

My 850 came with one OEM fork seal and one aftermarket. The aftermarket seal popped right out easily with this method since it was just squishy rubber. The OEM seal was a different story, it's reinforced with metal and plastic and no amount of air pressure made it budge.

[Jcgonzal]

hmmm, guess it's worth a shot!

[simon kuether]

I thought you removed them with a club .
That's what they do in Canadia .

Cheers , Simon .

[eil]

[Dogma]

If you loosen the damper rod bolts before removing the fork springs the spring tension will usually hold it from turning while you use an impact gun on the bolts.

I find compressing the fork leg helps with this.