Best way to remove for seals?

[Griffyn]

I thought you removed them with a club .
That's what they do in Canadia .

Cheers , Simon .

Two seals walk into a bar. Bartender asks, "What can I get for you?" The lead seal replies sharply, "Anything but a Canadian Club!"

[GSX1000E]

Can't you just blast out the fork seals with air pressure? After removing the clips, of course.

That method can work sometimes too. Make sure that you have drained all of the fluid and zip tie a rag around the upper leg just in case the remaining fluid wants to spray you and your room.

[Nessism]

I also use an upside down spark plug socket (with the hex on the bottom) and some extensions.

The allen head screw has a copper washer on the head to prevent leakage. It's advise to replace these if the old washers are indented too much.

[Jcgonzal]

I was having a hard time picturing the spark plug socket method, so I looked up a picture. I forgot the sockets have that hex at the top, so that makes sense. Hopefully I have enough extensions to get the job done....I tried air, but it just wouldn't pop.

[Guss77]

Ok. I’m not sure if this is the best place to post this. hoping this helps others!!!

1. I have a 77 gs750. I tried pulling and prying on my fork seals with various tools. No luck. my fork does not have that magical bushing that can be used to pull the seal out. That tip is all over you tube, but won’t work for a 77 fork because it’s not the same type apparently. I was about to pay a mechanic to do the seals but then tried the heat trick. It worked. I literately heated up the outside of the bottom fork where the seal sits. used a small butane torch for about 30 seconds. Then it pulled out rather easily with a hammer.

2. Bottom bolt issue. My dampener rod is perfectly round at the top end. There’s no way to fit any sort of hex nut or spark plug socket. Simply wont work - it’s perfectly round, there’s nothing to grab on to. Luckily I was able to unscrew the bolt no problem but the springs need to be in place thus applying enough pressure internally to prevent the rod from spinning. This is mentioned in previous thread somewhere!! Thank you!! I’m hoping the same is true when I go to torque it up (6 mm bolt 3lbs I believe??). if that doesn’t work, then I’ll try a piece of wood or the threaded rod with dbl nuts and just jam it in the circular area as hard as u can and hope it sticks to something. Lol I’ll post a pic tonight.

Will try and bang in the new seal using the old one as a guide tonight as well. keep y’all posted.

[Guss77]

Special tool. Lol

E153DCE4-D891-4C92-AF58-0AF027CC8FE2.jpg
heat it.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

If top of the damper rod is a round hole, like mine too, you can use a piece of broomstick. You probably don’t even need to shape it like I did. This definitely helps. I was able to break the bottom bolt loose using an air impact gun, this improvised tool wasn’t needed. But this definitely helped hold the damper rod from spinning when I re-torqued the bolt on reassembly.

[Guss77]

Used a old hammer to remove seal and cardboard btw hammer and pivot point.

7FB60E15-912B-4061-8A52-E934EE31C71B.jpg

[Guss77]

Sweet!! Thank you, I’ll try that!! yup. That’s exactly what mine looks like, just slightly different colour. Thank you!!

4C8D15A1-1C87-4627-AF22-0860D3F58947.jpg

[chris]

For tightening the damper rod bolt. I do the final torque when the bike is all assembled with weight on the front wheel , this works most of the time, sometimes I have to use a air ratchet. You only need to get it initialy tight enough not to leak. This applies to damper rods that cannot be easily held. It's sometimes easier to break the fork cap and damper rod bolts free when still on the bike, don't forget to loosen the top yoke pinch bolts first.