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    rebuilding forks

    I have a 78 gs750 and I am having trouble with getting the 6mm hex bolt out. The book says I need a special tool to hold something. So is there any diy tool I can make or method I can use to get it out.

    Also if I did my research right it says I need 180cc of oil for each tube, what would this be in oz's?

    10 wieght fork oil ok?

    Stock springs dual disc front end.


    Thanx

    #2
    Originally posted by born2lose View Post
    I have a 78 gs750 and I am having trouble with getting the 6mm hex bolt out. The book says I need a special tool to hold something. So is there any diy tool I can make or method I can use to get it out.

    Also if I did my research right it says I need 180cc of oil for each tube, what would this be in oz's?

    10 wieght fork oil ok?

    Stock springs dual disc front end.


    Thanx
    Tool, if the springs are still in place an impact will get the bolts out with no tool. If it's apart already a broomstick will hold it while you use an impact. No impact, you can use a spark plug socket on a an extension backwards, you will need a few feet of extensions to reach down in there. I think it's 19mm hex (3/4 inch) but the hard part is finding a spark plug socket that will go on the extension backwards.

    Failing all of these, some all thread and two nuts locked together will hold it, weld a T handle on the other end, or use two more nuts locked together and a wrench.
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

    Life is too short to ride an L.

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      #3
      Type this into Google '180 cc to ounces' and you will get this:

      180 cubic centimeters =
      6.08652409 US fluid ounces

      -Dave
      82 GS1100E
      five asses because it's far superior to having just four!
      Yes, I watched too much South Park!

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        #4
        I try to loosen the hex-bolt before I loosen the fork cap. Impact driver works great, I use a battery one. But I only needed that the first time.

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          #5
          I always loosen the hex bolt on the bottom of the forks while the forks are together. If possible leave the forks on the bike to hold them in place. I slide a piece of rebar or a long bolt through one of the caliper bolt holes on both forks to keep them from spinning. I do the same thing when I torque the bolts down after the rebuild.
          I don't take the cap off the top as it takes tension off of the spring, and it makes it harder to get the bolt out of the bottom.
          And yes an impact driver works great to get a stuck bolt loose. If you have access to a battery powered one those work good, and if you use an air impact driver, be careful and not break the head of the bolt off or strip it.
          That happened to me, and I had to drill the head of the bolt off to get the fork apart.
          Last edited by Guest; 02-27-2014, 07:34 PM.

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            #6
            17mm head bolt and two nuts is the "tool"

            or a chunk of allthread and a similar size nut(s)
            1978 GS 1000 (since new)
            1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
            1978 GS 1000 (parts)
            1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
            1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
            1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
            2007 DRz 400S
            1999 ATK 490ES
            1994 DR 350SES

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              #7
              I got everything squared away. Ended up just using an impact .

              Thanx for the help guys

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