PVC spacer for front fork preload question...

[Gregory]

Do I reuse and of the stock components? funny looking washer, sleeve plug?

Are the following statement correct?
Cutting spacers - cut the spacer so that when everything is put back together you have about 1/2" of Preload on the spring.

Oil Level - 4.5 or so inches in the tubes.

There must be someone here that has done sonic springs on a 78 gs1000 right??

Why in the world do I have to take the forks off of the bike to accomplish these?

???Spacer - put spring in, put washer in, put pvc in. measure where pvc meets top of fork. Now subtract the depth of the cap and washer and add back 1/2"

???OIL- I have a long wire to gauge the depth of the oil.

[Gregory]

Ok I just went out and started trying to figure out the spacer. If I did it right it will be easy. (forks still on bike)

is this right?

1. dropped in new spring
2. put in Suzuki washer (the one with a flange that fits inside the spring)
3. Put in PVC and washer that was measured to put 1/2" preload on spring.

(measured from top of spring/washer to top of tube 4.5" minus Cap and washer measurement 1.25" = 3.25" + 1/2" preload = 3.75" PVC Length.)

(basically this is also the same as measuring that after everything is sitting lightly in place before threading....the cap should sit 1/2" above the top of fork tube.)

4. Screw in the cap. It doesn't feel hard to get the cap on like it did when I put a spacer in on the stock springs.

[tkent02]

OK, sounds good. What about setting the oil level?

Removing the forks is soooooo easy, why the big aversion to it?

[RichDesmond]

Do I reuse and of the stock components? funny looking washer, sleeve plug?

Probably not. It's been years since I did a GS1000, don't remember either of those parts specifically. Typically you just put in spring, washer, spacer, washer, fork cap.

Are the following statement correct?
Cutting spacers - cut the spacer so that when everything is put back together you have about 1/2" of Preload on the spring.

Yeah, 1/2"-3/4" is fine.

Oil Level - 4.5 or so inches in the tubes.

4.5" is ok, as long as you're measuring it correctly. You are actually measuring the air gap, the distance from the top of the tube down to the surface of the oil. Measured with the spring and spacer removed and the fork leg fully compressed.

Why in the world do I have to take the forks off of the bike to accomplish these?

You don't absolutely have to take the fork legs off, but it sure makes the job easier and faster if you do.

???Spacer - put spring in, put washer in, put pvc in. measure where pvc meets top of fork. Now subtract the depth of the cap and washer and add back 1/2"

Go back and re-read Note A in the instructions. I don't know how to make it any clearer than that. Spacer is sized with the fork fully extended.

???OIL- I have a long wire to gauge the depth of the oil.

Ordinary tape measure works fine, use a flashlight to help you see. Slowly put the tape in the tube until it just touches the surface of the oil, then read the number where it exits the tube. That's the oil height, relative to the top of the tube. Fork tube fully compressed, spring and spacer removed.

[Gregory]

Thank you Rich. Sorry I have had such a hard time with this, and about the aversion to taking the forks off. I just thought I could make it easier than taking everything apart. I may go back and do it the "right way later"

Should both sides have the exact same length PVC spacer? I just went out and measured the other side and it is not "exactly" the same distance. There is a difference of the thickness of a thick washer.

[RichDesmond]

Thank you Rich. Sorry I have had such a hard time with this, and about the aversion to taking the forks off. I just thought I could make it easier than taking everything apart. I may go back and do it the "right way later"

Should both sides have the exact same length PVC spacer? I just went out and measured the other side and it is not "exactly" the same distance. There is a difference of the thickness of a thick washer.

I wouldn't worry about that, not enough to matter.

[Gregory]

Thanks for everyone putting up with me on that endeavor. I have several degrees and still have trouble with simple things sometimes.

Just got back from a test ride down the street. Feels very responsive!

I ended up just staying with the level of oilI set previously according to factory specs. (I measured to make sure they were both equal).

One of the things I was dealing with prior to putting these on (in addition to the fender scrape issue) is that it felt a little bit notchy when in tight slow turns.

Everything feels fine now, although I did back off the head bolt a little. Not sure if it was the shocks or the bolt that fixed that one. I will have to look in my service manual to see how hard to tighten the top and side clamp head bolt... unless someone here knows a simple method for that. NO Worries - FOUND IT !!! http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ring+head+bolt

BTW is it ok if when I push down on the forks they sound squeaky?

[one_civic]

I hate to bring a thread back from the dead but I'm right about to install sonic springs in my 78 GS 750.
According to my clymer manual and online parts fiche, there are 2 springs in the 750 forks,

Am I cutting the pvc spacer to take the place of the smaller spring after of course measuring the proper height with the main sonic spring installed and subtracting the pre-load and the fork cap height?

[Gregory]

On mine it worked out that the pvc spacer was cut just about even with the top of the forks. When the fork cap was put back in it compressed the spring the right amount.

[one_civic]

I understand that, I just want to know if I'm to replace the smaller spring with a pvc spacer

http://www.suzukipart.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3fed1f8700230d8b4dccb/front-fork-gs750b

[one_civic]