Steering head bearings

[VonYinzer]

If you have a race that is stuck in the frame, use a Dremel tool with a large cut-off wheel to cut into it twice, about 1/4" from each other.
That will take all the pressure off and it will likely just drop out.

Don't worry too much about nicking into the metal on the frame, that won't affect how well the new bearing performs.



Even though tapered bearings are better, they are still not perfect.
Here is why I had to change this bearing:



.

I know the thread is older... But if you see this type of wear on a bearing race you have a few possible issues. Those indetations are generally only going to occur if the bearings are either too tight (top to bottom on the shaft) or the bearing itself hasn't seated to the shaft and isn't functioning properly. I'll spare the technical details (unless someone wants to hear that) but these bearing kits aren't as plug and play as the sellers would have you believe. Tapered roller bearings will always have a specific thrust load that they need to be within to function properly. Anyhow... When installing these bearings there is more to it than just slapping them in and bolitingthe front end back together.

[BigD_83]

I know the thread is older... But if you see this type of wear on a bearing race you have a few possible issues. Those indetations are generally only going to occur if the bearings are either too tight (top to bottom on the shaft) or the bearing itself hasn't seated to the shaft and isn't functioning properly. I'll spare the technical details (unless someone wants to hear that) but these bearing kits aren't as plug and play as the sellers would have you believe. Tapered roller bearings will always have a specific thrust load that they need to be within to function properly. Anyhow... When installing these bearings there is more to it than just slapping them in and bolitingthe front end back together.

Come on now, you're not going to leave us hanging are you?

I for one would like to hear more.

[VonYinzer]

I'll stop back tomorrow. Time for dinner. Also... I'm not just blowing smoke. I'm a lead tech for one of the worlds largest gearbox manufacturers. Bearings are my every day.

[storm 64]

Yeah, brother I'm all ears... I just changed my steering head bearings with 42,000 miles on the motorcycle. I figured with all the pounding the front suspension takes with the poor road conditions in north east Ohio, that's what caused the wear. I suppose I could have periodically(adjusted) tightened up the bearing and extended the life of the bearing. Once the wear started there was no return...

[VonYinzer]

TThat's really the issue. Once it starts, it can only get worse. The real problem in these applications (according to the engineer I bugged today ) is that these bearings are made to continually rotate and spread the wear evenly across the races. As far as setting them up right... I'll bug said engineer a bit more tomorrow and see if we can't figure something out.

[mikerophone]

Anything further on this? I am going to be doing this job soon and would love to learn more.

[storm 64]

I'll stop back tomorrow. Time for dinner. Also... I'm not just blowing smoke. I'm a lead tech for one worlds largest gearbox manufacturers. Bearings are my every day.

I think he was Blowing Smoke. He never got back with the "Technical Details"... Anyway, Mikerophone, if you need any help with anything specific let me know. Or if you would like to barrow my tools let me know, I'll send them to you if you promise to send them back.

[mikerophone]

I think he was Blowing Smoke. He never got back with the "Technical Details"... Anyway, Mikerophone, if you need any help with anything specific let me know. Or if you would like to barrow my tools let me know, I'll send them to you if you promise to send them back.

Thanks storm 64!

I just may take you up on that. I ordered my all balls kit from Z1 yesterday, should be here later this week.

[mikerophone]

Tackling this tonight and tomorrow - I would have started this last week but I ended up taking a trip to California, and I meant to start it this morning but I picked up and 82 750T last night that took my whole day cleaning up.

I am hoping to be able to just use the tools I have on hand and maybe a grinder at work for the steering stem bearing if needed. I plan to use the dremel trick to get the races out, perhaps with a little propane and a pry bar as well. Wish I had ordered the wheel bearings you suggested storm64, it is like changing my shorts without changing my socks, but I will need a new front tire soon enough anyway...

[Grimly]

I don't think he was blowing all that much smoke - his point about these bearing being designed for a rotating environment is valid. They were never designed for this application, else they would likely last longer, with differing design to take the peculiar loads we put on them.
If they're correctly torqued and loads spread relatively evenly at all times, I can see them lasting longer, but they wont' last forever, as the shock loadings they get are sometimes quite enormous. Which is why I always buy SKF, Timken, etc, instead of no-name cheap crap - or even over-blown repackaged cheap-ish ones that are presented as being "moto-cycle" application.
For years, I've found that decent, name-brand bearings are only a few bucks more than the cheap crap. It's not worthwhile cheaping out on bearings.

[mikerophone]

I went with the all balls bearings from Z1, they were the same price as on the all balls site.

Question though - here's where I'm at, at the special notched steering bolt nut:



I don't have the special tool shown here:



It does state that it's counterclockwise to remove, I am soaking it and have given it a tap or 2 with a small angle pry bar and it hasn't budged yet. I don't want to use heat since the dust seal is rubber. I suppose I could take a big socket to work in the morning and grind out two small finger notches or maybe four but my guess is I wouldn't get the spacing exact, anyone have a tip or trick for me here?

Edit: I got it - a good soak of 50/50 ATF and acetone, a little heat on the stem itself carefully, and only from the top, another soaking, another heating followed by another soaking and then 4 taps in a circle around the nut and its loose!