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New front wheel bearings cured mine. Mine only shook if I took my hands off of the handlebars, and stopped when I put one hand back on.sigpic
When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"
Glen
-85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
-Rusty old scooter.
Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/
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The high speed one is not completely harmless. The old XS 650 did it once, starting at about however fast an XS 650 will go, front wheel tracking back and forth about two or three feet very quickly, several times per second. It was very violent. Took all my strength to keep my hands on the bars. If it wasn't a wide straight road (I 5 by Camp Pendleton) could not have steered to stay on the road at all. Couldn't stop it until got down to about 35mph. Could have been caused by worn bearings, mismatched tires or anything else, this was a long time ago, maybe '76 or so.
Have never seen any GS do it, but it might if you went fast enough, or if some bearings were bad enough. Has anyone had a GS do this?
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Originally posted by dorkburger View PostMine only shook if I took my hands off of the handlebars, and stopped when I put one hand back on.
"No," I said, "it's the front that's shaking."
"Swing arm bushings," he repeated.
"But it's the front," I insisted.
"Swing arm bushings," he calmly repeated.
I bought the two metal-tube things and installed them myself. Problem gone. That guy knew his sheet (or at least my CB350).1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red
2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.
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No Shaking
Originally posted by Rob S. View PostThat describes mine. When it happened on my CB350 (with 6" longer Forks By Frank), I was surprised when someone told me it was the swing arm bushings.
"No," I said, "it's the front that's shaking."
"Swing arm bushings," he repeated.
"But it's the front," I insisted.
"Swing arm bushings," he calmly repeated.
I bought the two metal-tube things and installed them myself. Problem gone. That guy knew his sheet (or at least my CB350).
I haven't had any shaking in my bike so I am fortunate in that regard. My new fork brace improved stability at higher speeds but I should also check the front bearings like DB suggested.
EdGS750TZ V&H/4-1, Progressive Shocks, Rebuilt MC/braided line, Tarozzi Stabilizer[Seq#2312]
GS750TZ Parts Bike [Seq#6036]
GSX-R750Y (Sold)
my opinion shouldn't be taken as gospel or in any way that would lead you to believe otherwise (30Sep2021)
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If the fork brace is the old hoop style, there is a possibility of misaligning the forks, as there's a little slop in the mounting holes, but then the front axle has to go through, so it might be moot.GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES
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Originally posted by tkent02 View PostThe high speed one is not completely harmless. The old XS 650 did it once, starting at about however fast an XS 650 will go, front wheel tracking back and forth about two or three feet very quickly, several times per second. It was very violent. Took all my strength to keep my hands on the bars. If it wasn't a wide straight road (I 5 by Camp Pendleton) could not have steered to stay on the road at all. Couldn't stop it until got down to about 35mph. Could have been caused by worn bearings, mismatched tires or anything else, this was a long time ago, maybe '76 or so.
Have never seen any GS do it, but it might if you went fast enough, or if some bearings were bad enough. Has anyone had a GS do this?sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
2015 CAN AM RTS
Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.
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Originally posted by tkent02 View Post...
Have never seen any GS do it, but it might if you went fast enough, or if some bearings were bad enough. Has anyone had a GS do this?
When I first got my 1000G, I would get some unnerving wobbles at highway speed after passing through a truck's wake. Adding a fork brace actually made it worse. That got me to examining the forks, and I realised they were binding a little. I fixed that by resetting all the triple clamps, and the wobble went away. I also had worn steering bearings at the time, but I don't think I replaced those until later.Dogma
--
O LORD, be gracious to me; heal me, for I have sinned against you! - David
Skeptical scrutiny is the means, in both science and religion, by which deep insights can be winnowed from deep nonsense. - Carl Sagan
--
'80 GS850 GLT
'80 GS1000 GT
'01 ZRX1200R
How to get a "What's New" feed without the Vortex, and without permanently quitting the Vortex
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Preventing Wobble
So many factors to consider:
Tires (Age, Tread, Balance, Air Pressure)
Bearings (Front Axle, Swing-arm, Rear Axle)
Triple Tree (Fork Brace)
Forks (Springs, Oil)
Thanks for all the feedback.
EdGS750TZ V&H/4-1, Progressive Shocks, Rebuilt MC/braided line, Tarozzi Stabilizer[Seq#2312]
GS750TZ Parts Bike [Seq#6036]
GSX-R750Y (Sold)
my opinion shouldn't be taken as gospel or in any way that would lead you to believe otherwise (30Sep2021)
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Originally posted by GSXR7ED View PostSo many factors to consider:
Tires (Age, Tread, Balance, Air Pressure)
Bearings (Front Axle, Swing-arm, Rear Axle)
Triple Tree (Fork Brace)
Forks (Springs, Oil)
Ed
Obviously, simple "external" (free) things like tire age, tread and pressure should be eliminated first. It doesn't cost anything to check the tread or adjust the pressure of tires.1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red
2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.
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Originally posted by Rob S. View PostBut isn't there a correct order to check things?82 1100 EZ (red)
"You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY
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Originally posted by tkent02 View PostThe high speed one is not completely harmless. The old XS 650 did it once, starting at about however fast an XS 650 will go, front wheel tracking back and forth about two or three feet very quickly, several times per second. It was very violent. Took all my strength to keep my hands on the bars. If it wasn't a wide straight road (I 5 by Camp Pendleton) could not have steered to stay on the road at all. Couldn't stop it until got down to about 35mph. Could have been caused by worn bearings, mismatched tires or anything else, this was a long time ago, maybe '76 or so.
Have never seen any GS do it, but it might if you went fast enough, or if some bearings were bad enough. Has anyone had a GS do this?sigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things
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Order
Originally posted by Rob S. View PostBut isn't there a correct order to check things? (Most likely to be causing shaking, most likely to wear out sooner.)
Obviously, simple "external" (free) things like tire age, tread and pressure should be eliminated first. It doesn't cost anything to check the tread or adjust the pressure of tires.
I'd also check the engine brackets and make sure the engine is tightly bolted.
EdGS750TZ V&H/4-1, Progressive Shocks, Rebuilt MC/braided line, Tarozzi Stabilizer[Seq#2312]
GS750TZ Parts Bike [Seq#6036]
GSX-R750Y (Sold)
my opinion shouldn't be taken as gospel or in any way that would lead you to believe otherwise (30Sep2021)
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Originally posted by Rob S. View PostBut isn't there a correct order to check things? (Most likely to be causing shaking, most likely to wear out sooner.)
Obviously, simple "external" (free) things like tire age, tread and pressure should be eliminated first. It doesn't cost anything to check the tread or adjust the pressure of tires.
Depending upon a multiplicity of factors, these "modes" can damped or un-damped or grow which you can probably call the "mode character". The mode character can vary with speed and how big the disturbance is that might set it off.
The modes are always there, but the charter can change and it is many factors that can change it. If noting else, do the easy and cheap stuff and see if it gets better; it probably will until you push it harder and the mode character gets worse.
Sometime you will think it is fine and then there is something that triggers the mode and puts it into a growing character (like the losses of traction described by others).
So NO THERE IS NO SPECIFIC order, but there are is a long list of first things to check and in the end it is do it all.
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Originally posted by GSXR7ED View PostI would start (like you said) with tire condition/air pressure, then alignment and all that it entails. Make sure the wheel balance is good too. (That requires removing both wheels/which can be alot of work) From there, check the bearings and grease, grease, grease them if they are in good shape.
I'd also check the engine brackets and make sure the engine is tightly bolted.
Edsigpic
When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"
Glen
-85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
-Rusty old scooter.
Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/
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Originally posted by dorkburger View PostA quick note on greasing roller type bearings....Its possible to overgrease them and cause early failure due to overheating. We come across this semi regularly in hvac service when overzealous techs get crazy with the grease gun, particularly in fan/blower applications.
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