'83 GS850 GL - New Springs Confusion

[Wingsconsin]

My fork seals are leaking - so I bought new seals and of course new Sonic Springs to upgrade my ride...

I have the old forks apart and have the old springs out of the gray goo found inside the forks - and they seem quite a bit longer than my New Sonic Springs..?

Included with the Sonic Springs is a grey PVC pipe that I suppose I am to cut and use as a spacer ? And throw out the old metal spacer?

And do these old springs seem progressively wound / Or do they look OEM to you ??

Any guidance you can offer at this point would be helpful?

Also what size PVC pipe do I need to push/pound down the new seals ?

I have the tutorial downloaded and read thru several times - but this is my first fork seal job and I am learning a lot already...

Like old fork oil smells pretty bad ...

Pictures --

[49er]

Looks like you received G model springs. The GL shock tubes and springs are longer than the G model.

[Wingsconsin]

Nuts -- really ? that makes sense ..
I have sent them an email - (no contact phone on website)
Dag nab it ... now I am puzzled..
I may just put the OEM back in..
The bike rode well enough with those...
Just replace the seal leak and move onward...

[Nessism]

Those springs are fine. You just need to figure out how much preload to put on them.

I'd start by cutting the PVC spacers so they are exactly flush with the top of the fully extended forks. When you install the top cap there will be about 3/4" of preload on the springs. Install the forks and see how you like them. Some people measure static sag and adjust preload that way which is the proper method. You haven't mentioned how heavy you are or what springs you purchased so I'll leave the project of figuring out how much preload you desire up to you. At any rate, cut some longer spacers if you need to raise the ride height if you cut them too short the first time. It's a trial and error process that depends on your specific application and expectations.

[Wingsconsin]

Those springs are fine. You just need to figure out how much preload to put on them.

I'd start by cutting the PVC spacers so they are exactly flush with the top of the fully extended forks. When you install the top cap there will be about 3/4" of preload on the springs. Install the forks and see how you like them. Some people measure static sag and adjust preload that way which is the proper method. You haven't mentioned how heavy you are or what springs you purchased so I'll leave the project of figuring out how much preload you desire up to you. At any rate, cut some longer spacers if you need to raise the ride height if you cut them too short the first time. It's a trial and error process that depends on your specific application and expectations.

Okay -- This is GOOD NEWS ..
I though cutting the spacers to fit would be a good idea..
I am 300# and order the 1.1 springs.
I was aiming for the 1/2" to 3/4" pre-load so the idea of cutting them flush agrees with my thoughts on what I needed to do after studying the tutorials and the instructions from Sonic.

Any comments of the longer taken out springs ? OEM or an older Progressive?
I thought OEM were single rate wound and these appear progressively wound but I have no experience on this matter ???

[bwringer]

The overall length of the spring is totally irrelevant.

Make spacers using PVC (if you don't have enough PVC to make two, you might need to run to the hardware store) long enough to end up with about 3/4" of preload with the fork caps installed and the forks fully extended. Make the spacers as close to the same length as possible, and make sure they're square.

I usually use a pipe cutter like this one -- it's damn near impossible to get a square end or accurate length with a hacksaw:


My impression is that those look like OEM springs, some of which were progressively wound (some also used two springs stacked to give the same effect). Progressive brand springs usually look shorter, and the coils usually don't look so close together. However, it's hard to tell 100% for sure. In any case, they weren't doing the job for you.

[mrbill5491]

The OEM springs I took out are progressively wound. My Sonic springs look just like yours, seemed like they were too short. Don't worry, once you get the preload figure out to your liking and the weight of the fork oil. You'll be fine.

[Steve]

Carl, those springs you took out look like OEM. At least, they are exactly like the ones I took out of my son's '82 650L and my wife's '82 850L. The Progressive (brand) springs that replaced both of them were a bit shorter and were wound with thicker wire. As others have suggested, cut a spacer to fit flush with the top of the fully-extended fork tube.

I think you made a good choice on the rate. Hopefully it won't be too much longer and I will be enjoying my 1.1 Sonic springs.

.

[mmattockx]

Some people measure static sag and adjust preload that way which is the proper method.

If OP measures sag to set his preload amount he should aim to have the laden sag (with him on the bike, wearing his usual riding gear) end up at about 25% of the total fork travel. Unladen sag really means nothing once the spring rates have been chosen, it is laden sag that is important to proper set up and performance of the suspension.


Mark

[Wingsconsin]

Excellent to know that I am on the right path -
Thanks to all the respondents - your sharing advice is comforting

I am now ready to finish the job this weekend..

I have my oil, seals, dust covers and special tool (free)

A length of 1/2" threaded rod and 4 nuts correct size were purchased at my local ACE hardware on my Rewards Bonus of $5.00
A frequent purchaser program.. the "Tool" was $4.93 - and I had a $5.00 coupon...

Yes ...

[Wingsconsin]

Forks are done ...just need to be reinstalled on the bike tomorrow. ?.Thanks for all the advice. ?.I feel like I got them perfect and ready to ride ...famous last words ...Seat rebuild is nearing completion too ...lots of riding season still in front of me

[RichDesmond]

Forks are done ...just need to be reinstalled on the bike tomorrow. ?.Thanks for all the advice. ?.I feel like I got them perfect and ready to ride ...famous last words ...Seat rebuild is nearing completion too ...lots of riding season still in front of me

Awesome, glad you got through it.

And a big thanks to everyone else that chimed in, gonna have to put you all on the Sonic Springs Tech Support Team.

[bwringer]

If OP measures sag to set his preload amount he should aim to have the laden sag (with him on the bike, wearing his usual riding gear) end up at about 25% of the total fork travel. Unladen sag really means nothing once the spring rates have been chosen, it is laden sag that is important to proper set up and performance of the suspension.


Mark

True. But you have to start somewhere, and 3/4" preload with these springs is an excellent place to start. In my case, I did not need to adjust from there.

[mmattockx]

True. But you have to start somewhere, and 3/4" preload with these springs is an excellent place to start. In my case, I did not need to adjust from there.

Yes, I wasn't arguing that. I just wanted to give a sag target for OP to use if he was going to go that route.


Mark

[Wingsconsin]

Awesome, glad you got through it.

And a big thank to everyone else that chimed in, gonna have to put you all on the Sonic Springs Tech Team.

Today was test ride day. What a pleasure it was to ride ...the front has NO dive when braking like before..very predictable . And yet the bumps are soaked up as if nonexistent ...I wish my Goldwing felt the same in the front ...

I have some brake work yet to do but all seems well..

Tech team info ...
The pvc sent was too short to make 2 correct size spacers for me ...I added 1 Inch to each side as preload above the fully extended tube . I had some pvc here so I cut my own secondary spacers ...
10 weight fork oil was perfect for my application.
Also polished and cleaned while I had the front apart ....

To do list ...
Get tach working properly.
Finish seat rework

Ride