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5W-30 instead of 10W for fork oil?
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5W-30 instead of 10W for fork oil?
Can anyone say how 5W-30/ATF blend would compare to 10W-30/ATF in front forks? I've got a whole bunch of new 5W-30 sitting here that's never going to be used for anything else (since I no longer own any cages).Tags: None
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Personally , I'd think straight 5-30 or even 10-30 is too thin for forks. If you have a bunch of 5-30, sell it, as lots of cars use it and folks love to save money. I'm paying about $3 a quart in NE for generic 5-30 .works good as chainsaw bar oil too!1981 gs650L
"We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin
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Are you saying you want to use engine oil in your suspension? - better off putting it on your pancakes- since you need someone to tell you where it does NOT belong!
suspension oil is special in the anti foaming properties it has. I use spectro brand fork oil, they offer many 5-10-20-choices - for fattys or rebound. I have not heard of multi viscosity transmission fluid . dextron or type F ?? 10 weight old school lazy rubber swelling crap.
multi viscosity fluids are thin when cold and thick when hot? plus the foamy air bubble thing --messes up compression dampening. motor oil in forks - what a mess.SUZUKI , There is no substitute
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Pendulum
Originally posted by trippivot View PostAre you saying you want to use engine oil in your suspension? - better off putting it on your pancakes- since you need someone to tell you where it does NOT belong!
suspension oil is special in the anti foaming properties it has. I use spectro brand fork oil, they offer many 5-10-20-choices - for fattys or rebound. I have not heard of multi viscosity transmission fluid . dextron or type F ?? 10 weight old school lazy rubber swelling crap.
multi viscosity fluids are thin when cold and thick when hot? plus the foamy air bubble thing --messes up compression dampening. motor oil in forks - what a mess.
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I'm blending 10W40 and Dex III atf with target of a 15W fork oil. I'm changing every six months as there is still junk coming out the fork. Think the mix is 70:30. The ATF has a bigger effect on viscosity than the heavier oils so if your target is halfway between the two you won't go 50:50.97 R1100R
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80 GS850G, 79 Z400B, 85 R100RT, 80 Z650D, 76 CB200
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78550GS
Originally posted by Pendulum View PostAccording to the manuals and many posts on here, 10W-30 and ATF mixed 50/50 is what the forks call for. I know more than a little about suspension, so check the attitude, chief.
Let's all try to keep it civil around here.
I don't know about your oil situation, but I will be watching this anyway since I need to do seals on mine.
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Pendulum
Originally posted by 78550GS View PostI'm not here to flame anyone, but you have only 15 posts so far, and you are throwing attitude out to some one who has been a regular poster on here for years? I didn't think any of that $hit happened here.
Let's all try to keep it civil around here.
I don't know about your oil situation, but I will be watching this anyway since I need to do seals on mine.
I've been around here a while, but at some point my account disappeared or something. Probably during a migration/upgrade of forum software. I've been a member since like 2010, and have contributed a pretty decent amount to electrical threads and a lot of 550-specific information.
Now, back on topic:
After further reading, I'm gonna run actual fork oil. I guess going by the manual doesn't apply here since times have changed and fork oil isn't a rarity like it was in the late 70s. If you're doing the fork seals on your 550, take a look at my thread about it. There's some stuff on the 550 that's different from all of the guides I've seen.Last edited by Guest; 12-10-2014, 12:24 PM.
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Fork Oil Info
I'm here for the info on fork oil because I will need to replace the gaskets/boots.
Tripivot can be rough around the edges but just sift through key points and disregard his manners.
EdGS750TZ V&H/4-1, Progressive Shocks, Rebuilt MC/braided line, Tarozzi Stabilizer[Seq#2312]
GS750TZ Parts Bike [Seq#6036]
GSX-R750Y (Sold)
my opinion shouldn't be taken as gospel or in any way that would lead you to believe otherwise (30Sep2021)
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78550GS
I will look into your posts on 550 forks Pendulum, thank you. I wasn't looking to pi$$ anyone off. And I realize some here come off as very caustic. What I always have to remember is that everyone is here to help one another.
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Originally posted by GSXR7ED View PostI'm here for the info on fork oil because I will need to replace the gaskets/boots.
Tripivot can be rough around the edges but just sift through key points and disregard his manners.
EdsigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
2015 CAN AM RTS
Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35640
- Torrance, CA
It's true that Suzuki specifies motor oil and/or a motor oil and ATF mix in some service manuals. I don't think there is anything wrong with going this way. The key thing is to get the oil thickness that matches your needs. The first number (5W or 10W) is the important number because that indicates cold temp thickness. A 10W-30 and 10W-40 will both be the same thickness at room temperature, it's only at high temp where the thickness will vary.
I suspect 5W oil will be too light. Can't hurt to try though. If you don't like the ride change it out again.Last edited by Nessism; 12-10-2014, 02:47 PM.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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shocking - use the right fluid or look stupid.
mix isopropyl alcohol and gear lube to a proportion to 15 weight for all I care.... hell ketchup and vinegar will get you there too.
my experience is branded in success - Decades of it - and that is no reason to respect me - mater of fact I hope you do all of your own mechanical work - foregoing every bit of wisdom offered here.. I am guessing your perspective of success means so much more after huge failures.
but I love to discuss fluid dynamics and the properties of different fluids, the measureable linear effect relating to compression and rebound dampening when a fluid is not a pure fluid. What and how chemical combinations change the liquid as a whole. Said fluid under pressure or static? Emulsified air mixed into a fluid and how to manage the foaming to maintain a steady resistance , heat presents a second challenge to the steady resistance. spring rate and air pressure , hence a third issue of a moving target . let alone bushing friction and tubular bind, aka stiction. odd oils effecting rubber seal integrity .... Your traction is effected by all of these things as you motor over a bumpy road. , So this is the ground level of an open discussion and I like to hear about your knowledge and experience.
every written word since the dawn of time is not valuable and relevant as it relates to single dampening rod suspension technology. Let's also include modern synthetic fluids as they apply to the old way to bend fluids and create resistance.
I have an attitude - and attitude for success. and attitude for solutions , and an attitude against ignorance...
what happened to the rookie that worked on his own bike? he's dead - never seen it coming. ask me how common that statement is in the motorcycle industry?
if you can't just buy fork oil or admit it is the best thing for the task --- maybe use the search feature and do some research.SUZUKI , There is no substitute
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Oils and Lubricants
Originally posted by mrbill5491 View PostThe 30w fork oil we used on your bike is working fine with the weak springs. Now if you decide to go with some new/stiffer fork springs, then dropping the weight down should be considered. As for the fork oil it self, plenty of specific fork oils and weight choices out there now to make anyone happy. Just remember not all the brand weights are the same.
I'm staying with the current springs for the time being but will eventually go with stiffer suspension. Thanks for the info.
Ed
NOTE: Dang Jeff, you know a thing or two about "stuff". I'm not worthy!GS750TZ V&H/4-1, Progressive Shocks, Rebuilt MC/braided line, Tarozzi Stabilizer[Seq#2312]
GS750TZ Parts Bike [Seq#6036]
GSX-R750Y (Sold)
my opinion shouldn't be taken as gospel or in any way that would lead you to believe otherwise (30Sep2021)
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Pendulum
Originally posted by trippivot View Postif you can't just buy fork oil or admit it is the best thing for the task --- maybe use the search feature and do some research.
It may sound like a trivial question but I'm doing a nut and bolt restoration of my 1975 XS650B which is nearly back on the road. Went to the motorfactors today to buy 10/30 fork oil but was told it was unavailable. Can anybody recommend what weight fork oil I should use. The Haynes manual says...
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SuzukiSavage.com : - Apparel Decals The Elite Technical Performance Parts suzuki, savage, ls650, s40, motorcycle, suzuki savage, ecommerce, open source, shop, online shopping
The last 3 links came from these Google queries:
Plenty of people are using the engine oil/ATF blend. The manuals even say that's what you should use. Is it the best choice? Probably not, but I don't need the best performing option for this bike. I have a bunch of 5W-30 oil and ATF sitting here I'm unlikely to ever use, and my manual says engine oil + ATF is what to put in the forks. I did a quick search on here and Google, and see a bunch of people running engine oil + ATF but wanted some input on whether the 5W-30 would be too light. Turns out my suspicions are right. Since I'd have to buy 10W engine oil to get the viscosity I want, I'm just going to buy some fork oil. btw, it's "damping", not "dampening". Unless you're trying to get things wet. Don't feel bad, I've seen a lot of people make that mistake.
Instead of being a crusty old curmudgeon, why not try treating people with a bit of respect?
To everyone else:
Thank you for the help and your input. I think I'm gonna run 10W Maxima fork oil, since thats what Z1 has and I need to get a few things from them soon anyway.Last edited by Guest; 12-10-2014, 11:13 PM.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35640
- Torrance, CA
Originally posted by Pendulum View Postbtw, it's "damping", not "dampening". Unless you're trying to get things wet. Don't feel bad, I've seen a lot of people make that mistake.
Instead of being a crusty old curmudgeon, why not try treating people with a bit of respect?
I wouldn't think twice about running motor oil in my forks.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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