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    Fork braces

    I've noticed two types of fork braces: straightforward fork-to-fork, and ones that loop over the front fender.

    I'm assuming both styles are available for some bikes. What are the function/performance/cost benefits of one over the other?

    How much of a handling gain can one make on an '82 11e?
    1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

    2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

    #2
    You can make a 30 year old bike handle like a 20 year old bike



    I consider them a band-aide. When my bike was new it never wallowed like it does now. Ive gone through every suspension / handling issue I can think of and its not anywhere near like when it was new. I think the smoking gun is in the fork bushings. Even with new parts it is still sloppy.
    82 1100 EZ (red)

    "You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY

    Comment


      #3
      Looking at the pic you posted reminds me of a negative: they add weight.

      The fork bushings, are they up top near the triple trees?
      1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

      2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Rob S. View Post
        The fork bushings, are they up top near the triple trees?
        Nope. Look at the fiche. You'll see em.....





        82 1100 EZ (red)

        "You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY

        Comment


          #5
          There are two sets of bushings. A set on the sliders at the bottom and a set at the top of the tubes. Not sure why you are that concerned about weight Rob. Your bike is a street bike right and not a track bike? Anything that can make a bike handle better, weight be damned. Some weight savings are good and some there is little or no benefit. I like my brace, because it allows the forks too work together and minimize any flexing between the forks.
          sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
          1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
          2015 CAN AM RTS


          Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Rob S. View Post
            I've noticed two types of fork braces: straightforward fork-to-fork, and ones that loop over the front fender.

            I'm assuming both styles are available for some bikes. What are the function/performance/cost benefits of one over the other?
            Still wondering about my original question.

            I realize shaving pounds is mostly a psychological benefit for me, but I was disappointed when I weighed her last year and she was over 560 lbs.

            I also realize the weight savings by not having a centerstand probably raised my C.G., certainly not my goal.

            So what about those two types of fork braces? The double loop over the fender type almost seems like it's designed to flex, whereas the hefty fork-to-fork brace shouts, "No movement!"
            1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

            2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

            Comment


              #7
              If you want to look vintage get the lopie one. If you want it to improve the forks as much as can be done, get the fork to fork one. I perceive it as vintage style vs function.
              sigpic
              83 GS1100g
              2006 Triumph Sprint ST 1050

              Ohhhh!........Torque sweet Temptress.........always whispering.... a murmuring Siren

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Charlie G View Post
                If you want to look vintage get the lopie one. If you want it to improve the forks as much as can be done, get the fork to fork one. I perceive it as vintage style vs function.
                Thanks. The loops over the fender would be too vintage.

                What about placement? How is it determined where exactly to place the brace?
                1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I've used both and find no difference between them and to tell you the truth, it's hard to determine the improvement either one made. I know the bike is better with it than without, but there's definitely no 'wow, that's better' happening.
                  Rob
                  1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
                  Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Tarozzi Forks Stabalizer

                    Originally posted by Rob S. View Post
                    I've noticed two types of fork braces: straightforward fork-to-fork, and ones that loop over the front fender.

                    I'm assuming both styles are available for some bikes. What are the function/performance/cost benefits of one over the other?

                    How much of a handling gain can one make on an '82 11e?
                    I have the one that loops over the top of the front fender. When Bill told me the only stability between the top of the forks at the triple tree and the front axle was the fender--I thought about that for a second. Then I decided I wanted to re-enforce the stability. Here's a side view showing the front fender enforcement I was talking about and the Tarozzi Fork Brace that supports the claim.



                    Originally posted by mrbill5491 View Post
                    There are two sets of bushings. A set on the sliders at the bottom and a set at the top of the tubes. Not sure why you are that concerned about weight Rob. Your bike is a street bike right and not a track bike? Anything that can make a bike handle better, weight be damned. Some weight savings are good and some there is little or no benefit. I like my brace, because it allows the forks too work together and minimize any flexing between the forks.
                    Here's a view that supports the above statement. Basically, peace of mind is why I installed my fork brace. No "Wow" factor required by me.



                    Originally posted by Rob S. View Post
                    Still wondering about my original question.

                    I realize shaving pounds is mostly a psychological benefit for me, but I was disappointed when I weighed her last year and she was over 560 lbs.

                    I also realize the weight savings by not having a centerstand probably raised my C.G., certainly not my goal.

                    So what about those two types of fork braces? The double loop over the fender type almost seems like it's designed to flex, whereas the hefty fork-to-fork brace shouts, "No movement!"
                    Here's another shot to help you make a decision to go with the Tarozzi. I paid less than $100 including shipping...like maybe $75.




                    Ed
                    Last edited by GSXR7ED; 02-28-2015, 09:34 AM.
                    GS750TZ V&H/4-1, Progressive Shocks, Rebuilt MC/braided line, Tarozzi Stabilizer[Seq#2312]
                    GS750TZ Parts Bike [Seq#6036]
                    GSX-R750Y (Sold)

                    my opinion shouldn't be taken as gospel or in any way that would lead you to believe otherwise (30Sep2021)

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by azr View Post
                      I've used both and find no difference between them and to tell you the truth, it's hard to determine the improvement either one made. I know the bike is better with it than without, but there's definitely no 'wow, that's better' happening.
                      I have to agree with azr here...no wow factor on using a fork brace.
                      sigpic
                      83 GS1100g
                      2006 Triumph Sprint ST 1050

                      Ohhhh!........Torque sweet Temptress.........always whispering.... a murmuring Siren

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Fork slop can be attributed to wear in the lower tubes. I have tried using home made shims (aluminum can) behind new bushings and it helped loads.
                        NO PIC THANKS TO FOTO BUCKET FOR BEING RIDICULOUS

                        Current Rides: 1980 Suzuki GS1000ET, 2009 Yamaha FZ1, 1983 Honda CB1100F, 2006 H-D Fatboy
                        Previous Rides: 1972 Yamaha DS7, 1977 Yamaha RD400D, '79 RD400F Daytona Special, '82 RD350LC, 1980 Suzuki GS1000E (sold that one), 1982 Honda CB900F, 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by 1980GS1000E View Post
                          Fork slop can be attributed to wear in the lower tubes. I have tried using home made shims (aluminum can) behind new bushings and it helped loads.
                          Friend of mine uses feeler gauges as shims. Im gonna try that this summer.....

                          This may explain my handling issues...
                          Last edited by bonanzadave; 03-12-2015, 10:26 PM.
                          82 1100 EZ (red)

                          "You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY

                          Comment


                            #14
                            In the 1980's, I bought a universal plastic front fender that was white with no holes. I carefully measured and drilled the four attachment holes, and rattle-canned it black. But taking off the stock fender also took off the fork brace. I soon put on a Telefix fork brace. After adjusting the brace, I took out the fork springs and the fork slid perfectly. Until I torqued the axle bolt. That pinched the fork. After I added a thin washer as a shim on the right part of the axle, the forks slid perfectly.

                            I used to replace my fork seals every 12 or 15K, but I have not had to replace them since the Telefix brace, about 50K. (They will probably start leaking now.) The handling is terrific, especially after adding the Works Performance shocks. The brace makes the two spindly 35mm forks act together.
                            Attached Files

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by crankshaft View Post
                              In the 1980's, I bought a universal plastic front fender that was white with no holes. I carefully measured and drilled the four attachment holes, and rattle-canned it black. But taking off the stock fender also took off the fork brace. I soon put on a Telefix fork brace. After adjusting the brace, I took out the fork springs and the fork slid perfectly. Until I torqued the axle bolt. That pinched the fork. After I added a thin washer as a shim on the right part of the axle, the forks slid perfectly.

                              I used to replace my fork seals every 12 or 15K, but I have not had to replace them since the Telefix brace, about 50K. (They will probably start leaking now.) The handling is terrific, especially after adding the Works Performance shocks. The brace makes the two spindly 35mm forks act together.
                              That's a '79?

                              Does the '82 also have 35mm forks?
                              1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                              2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

                              Comment

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