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jprice90
I pulled the caps as the manual said, and no valves.
Guessing someone did screw with them at one time
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Originally posted by jprice90 View PostI pulled the caps as the manual said, and no valves.
Guessing someone did screw with them at one time97 R1100R
Previous
80 GS850G, 79 Z400B, 85 R100RT, 80 Z650D, 76 CB200
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Does your forks have a hex type cap or is it hollow with a circlip?
My sons '85 700 has the latter and you will have to press the cap into the tube to remove the clip. You may need help as that can be a real bugger to do by yourself if you don't have a shop press.
If it is a hex type that you can put a wrench on, then break the cap loose before you loosen the triple tree pinch bolts that holds the tube. Don't undo the cap in the tree, just loosen it a turn or two.
Once they are out you can support the base of your fork in a vise where the axle goes through or depending on the fork, the brake caliper mount. Where ever it give the most hold and support.(use some cloth to lessen chance of scratching your fork)
Then hold the cap, while turning the fork tube. This allows you to have the cap firmly in hand at all times, preventing possible flyaway. Some fork have a lot of spring tension and some hardly any.
This also works reinstalling the cap and lessens the chance of cross threading the cap. What leads to cross threading, is usually uneven pressure on the cap. It's easier to raise the tube to the cap and turn, than trying to push down and turn the cap at the same time.
TIP: turn the fork the opposite way till you hear the threads click, then tighten. The beginning of the inner and outer threads meeting is what will click. Less chances of cross threading that way and this trick also works great when installing spark plugs.:cool:GSRick
No God, no peace. Know God, know peace.
Eric Bang RIP 9/5/2018
Have some bikes ready for us when we meet up.
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Originally posted by gsrick View PostTIP: turn the fork the opposite way till you hear the threads click, then tighten. The beginning of the inner and outer threads meeting is what will click. Less chances of cross threading that way and this trick also works great when installing spark plugs.
Before installing the preload spacer on top of the spring, install the cap, but only turn it a couple of turns. Use a Sharpie marker, place a mark on the cap. Slowly rotate the fork tube until it falls away from the cap, note where the mark on the cap was when it let go. Put a mark at that location on the tube. When you re-assemble with the preload spacer in place, just rotate the marks away from each other a few degrees (about 1/8 turn), when you start to turn the tube to install the cap, your first turn will grab threads.
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mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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Maybe if you don't accidentally wipe or smear the mark on the chrome plated tubes. Sharpie markers need a porous surface to hold onto. Some masking tape around the top of the tube will help with that.:cool:GSRick
No God, no peace. Know God, know peace.
Eric Bang RIP 9/5/2018
Have some bikes ready for us when we meet up.
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jprice90
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