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GS1000 fork seals
So, I have a pretty bad leak coming out of the top of my L fork. I read through my service manual & it lists several "special" tools. I searched fork seals on here & found that I could make the only special tool I really need. Correct? Also, what do I order??? Fork seals, & dust boots? Maybe new springs if I can afford them? What about all the rubber grommets mounted on the forks? I read that I probably won't need the bushings that are down inside the forks (my 78 has less than 18K miles on it). So, please give me the run down. Thanks.Tags: None
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Get the fork seals. If your dust boots are not cracked, re-use them.
Lift the dust boots, look at the retaining mechanism for the seals. If it's pretty rusty and corroded, get whatever is in there. Some bikes have a large circlip, others have a wavy wire. Stiill others have a wire that hides quite well in a groove, and will drive you mad trying to find it, if you don't know what you are looking for.
Make the tool. If you have access to an air wrench, use it.
If you skip replacing springs because you "can't afford them", maybe owning a 35+ year-old bike is not for you. New Progressive (brand) springs are about $85 from Z1. Sonic springs are about the same price from Sonic Springs. We have Progressives in a few of our bikes, I just put Sonics in my 850 and can not believe it is the same bike. It rides SO much better than before, I like the ride quality better on my 850 than on my Wing.
You really can't afford to NOT replace the suspension, as that is what keeps the wheels on the road. It's not just comfort, it's a SAFETY issue.
Get some fork oil for when you put it all back together. 10w will probably work best. Some insist on using 15w or even 20w, but I have found them to be too harsh and uncomfortable.
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mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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BADJACKSON
Steve, thanks for the tips! It's not really a matter of can't afford, it's just that I've sunk quite a bit into her in the last 2 weeks, and she still isn't road worthy! I did the research on the Sonic Springs, $85 isn't bad. Dust boots are shot. So, I'll get boots & seals & springs.
Thanks!
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BADJACKSON
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Make a fork drive rod tool from some electrical conduit. And as for the dust seals. I would add that if they arent also SUPPLE enough to actually wipe the stations replaces them.. just cuzn they arent cracked doesnt mean they are actually wiping much.
I lock the handle in the vice, slide the lower on and get the nut head locked in and then remove the allen head bolt. The head on the bolt measures 19MM.
Last edited by chuck hahn; 05-04-2015, 09:33 AM.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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SVSooke
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BADJACKSON
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 13994
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
Or two nuts locked together on a piece of all thread works too.... In a push a broomstick works if you get an impact on the other side.1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
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BADJACKSON
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47mouth
Do the fork lowers need to be separated from the tubes in order to change the springs? I didn't see that in the tutorial on Basscliffs website.
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47mouth
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 13994
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
If you have the air valves on the tops of the fork tubes you can pop the retaining clip on the fork seals & pressurise them until the seal pops out. I've done that a couple of times where I know the fork internals are in good shape & don't want to split them. I think it took about 85 PSI but I was able to do it with a bicycle "track" pump easily enough.1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
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47mouth
I did the same thing but with an air compressor. It took a little while but it worked. Oh, and make sure you drain the tubes COMPETETLY or things get a little messy when the seals finally pop.
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