No Schrader valves on fork caps

[Guest]

Hey everyone,

I was following the how to guide: Fork Seal Replacement by BassCliff on the Bikecliff website. However, my 78 GS400 fork caps don't have Schrader valves and I can't pressurize them to pop the old seals out!

Will Schrader valves on a different GS model fit my bike, and is that an option? If not are there any safe alternative methods that don't involve a full tear down of the fork tubes?

Best,
NewRider

[Brendan W]

There were none on my 850 either. I thought a PO had modified it but it now looks as if certain markets never had them fitted. I'll be doing mine the old fashioned way when the time comes. Probably just as well as who knows what's lying in there after all this time.

[NewRider]

That's true, I think I'm going to keep looking for a Schrader valve option that fits my tubes. If I find anything I'll let you know

[chuck hahn]

Seperate the halves, heat the tops of the lowers with a propane torch and watch where the rubber meets the metal for some bubbling...this is the clue the area is warm enough and the rubber is softened up well.Heat it all the way around to break the rubbers seal to the tubes. Now use a flat tip and hook it JUST JUST under the inner rim of the seal..but not so the blade scrapes the fork tube metal. Pry them out.

[Steve]

I use Chuck's method, ... minus the heat.

I have not (yet) had the need to heat the seals to remove them, they have come out with some simple mechanical "persuasion".

.

[ShadowFocus603]

I use a hooked pick to dig into the seal itself and pull it out. After removing the retaining clip and metal ring ofc.

[JTGS850GL]

I use the heat as well. Makes pulling the seal a piece of cake.

[NewRider]

Thanks for all the replies guys... I ended up completely disassembling my forks. The seal is still a pain to get out.. My fork tubes are lightly pitted and raised from rust. I was thinking about sanding them lightly... Can anyone weigh in on this? Thanks for all the help as always

[Brendan W]

The useless technically correct answer is that pitted forks will cause new seals to fail early and new tubes are the only way to go.
If the pitting is slight and you keep on top of it by polishing it out to the point where you can't feel it the seals have a much better chance.
I use Aluminium foil to treat rust spots on mufflers, mirrors and trim parts. It has amazing properties in suppressing rust. Might be worth researching a bit. The only concern with fork tubes for me would be it scratching the good parts. Sanding sounds too aggressive.

[NewRider]

Hey guys,
The forks have really become a huge stressor. The fork seals were stuck, I tried map gas heat gun penetrating oil etc. Finally I got them out with the use a prybar.. One came out great the other suffered significant scoring to the seal lip and bore... Here is a pic of the damage-- any thoughts on the best course of action? Thanks again everyone for all your advice...

[Brendan W]

Not the first or last time that's happened. Don't stress out over it. Polish them out smooth and flush and more than likely the seal won't notice. These machines got this far by being waaaay over engineered.

[NewRider]

Thanks, sorry it took me so long to reply-- i haven't had an opportunity to test them out yet. I took a frustration break from working on the bike. I was hoping to get the fork reassembled today but I can't for the life of me figure out what this is: I know it came out of the fork-- It looks to me like it might fit around the damper rod or the fork cap. I tried looking on the parts fiche, my Hanes manual, and the Clymer manual to no avail. Anyone have any idea?

[NewRider]

For scale:

[Grimly]

If those are pits caused by mechanical damage, you could get a Dremel grindstone in there and carefully dress them back. Same with the scoring, if it's not too deep. When putting the new seals in, lightly coat the outside of them, and the inside of the seating area with Hylomar (or what you have locally that's a direct analogue of it).

[Brendan W]

Looking at a few fiches for the 400 there seems to be different arrangements at the top of the spring. There is a part No 23 on some. Could what you have be a spacer ?