Best suspension setup within stock bones

[Guest]

I want to totally rebuild my entire suspension and make it as good as possible. My question is: what suspension modifications are recommended to extract the best overall performance for my bike. I am planning on purchasing Ohlins SU143 rear shocks and I want to rebuild the front to match the performance (as closely as possible) to the new rear suspension. I have been recommended to install cartridge emulators with RaceTech springs from a knowledgeable shop/suspension tuner. Thoughts?

Bike as it sits:
- 1978 GS1000 (stock engine, motogpwerks exhaust, DJS3)
- Salty Monk brake kit (Ninja 600 calipers; CBR900RR rotors; NISSIN 17mm MC; stainless steel brake lines)
- Stock suspension (front forks rebuilt with stock components)
- GS1100 alum. swinger
- No-name rear suspension

I am a bit of a heavier rider at 6'4 and ~260lb and will likely be going Ohlins SU143 with HD springs. My only other option at this point is to look into YSS Suspension which I received from another GSR member in a PM chain. They seem very well built but not quite to the quality of Ohlins. I can be swayed either way but let's imagine for the sake of this drill that money is no object. Total overall performance is the desired end result.

Thanks,
Matt

[tkent02]

Go with Sonic springs, they are straight rate springs, and the owner is a member on here. He will help you figure out which spring rate you want.

[posplayr]

My suggestion is to do whatever it takes to put radials under you. As a bare minimum that means getting to a 18x4.0" rear wheel with matching 18x2.75" front. Your forks will get better and the brakes will get better if you use the forks that come with whatever wheels you pick.

I you are really going to push it then you should get a better swing arm and do some frame bracing (in area "C" especially).


I might be able to help .

[mattfeet]

Sorry, I should have stated, I already have a GS1100 alum. swinger installed as well. I will edit the post.

Now, as you may remember from my build thread, I did a full restomod build on my GS1000. A portion of the build is chasing a certain aesthetic I am after which means I will be keeping my stock alum. wire wheels and forks. The saltymonk brake upgrade is an ENORMOUS upgrade from stock, and I am pleased with where I sit from braking capability standpoint. I do NOT formally race, nor have I done any track days. Aggressive street riding, canyon carving, Dragon slaying, etc., are the limits of what the bike will see.

Matt

[mattfeet]

Go with Sonic springs, they are straight rate springs, and the owner is a member on here. He will help you figure out which spring rate you want.

Why do you prefer those over RaceTech? Is one legitimately better than the other? Who is the owner on here? I would like to at least start the conversation with him.

Matt

[posplayr]

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/member.php?26397-RichDesmond

the racing world has moved to linear and away from progressive springs for some time.

[mattfeet]

Another option I am exploring is a 92-93 (Gen 1?) GSXR1100 front fork swap to the USD forks. Now, as aforementioned, I am quite keen on retaining my stock wheels. These forks present an issue in that I will have to get spacers made (no problem) but also install new brakes which will install on the USD forks but also work on the stock wheels with USD forks. I understand these forks will present me with an enormous upgrade but marrying up calipers that will work with the minimal rotor offset will be a tough task with plenty of trial and error.

[posplayr]

Sorry, I should have stated, I already have a GS1100 alum. swinger installed as well. I will edit the post.

Now, as you may remember from my build thread, I did a full restomod build on my GS1000. A portion of the build is chasing a certain aesthetic I am after which means I will be keeping my stock alum. wire wheels and forks. The saltymonk brake upgrade is an ENORMOUS upgrade from stock, and I am pleased with where I sit from braking capability standpoint. I do NOT formally race, nor have I done any track days. Aggressive street riding, canyon carving, Dragon slaying, etc., are the limits of what the bike will see.

Matt

With where you are heading you will have a very nibble stable bike up to about 60-70 mph(hard cornering) that is when the next level of performance needs radials.

The list must have been enumerated many times by now. For a stock bike:
Front: fork brace, sonic springs, emulators
Rear: shocks, 1100E swinger, increased ride height.
Tires: Speed Demon but they were so quick to wear; Avon Roadriders wear much longer if you can avoid the sidewall cracks (seems to be generally from the cold).
Make sure everything is in order (bearings) and align wheels.
That is about all you can do.

[mattfeet]

I see you mention emulators with the Sonic springs as well. I perused their website and see no listing of emulators through Sonic direct. Why dyo you mention increased right height for the rear? The SU143's I am looking at are the stock length (325mm, I believe); would it be better to get a longer rear shock? I was under the impression that I did not want to upset the suspension geometry from stock.

I am running on new Avon Roadriders (no cracks).

[Rob S.]

...the racing world has moved to linear and away from progressive springs for some time.

Aren't RaceTechs also straight rate?

[posplayr]

I see you mention emulators with the Sonic springs as well. I perused their website and see no listing of emulators through Sonic direct. Why dyo you mention increased right height for the rear? The SU143's I am looking at are the stock length (325mm, I believe); would it be better to get a longer rear shock? I was under the impression that I did not want to upset the suspension geometry from stock.

I am running on new Avon Roadriders (no cracks).

Longer shocks help quicken the steering by raising the rear . General up to 1" is recommended. Used to be you need adjustable Ohlins or other top of the line shocks but there is a guy making an extension with sales on ebay. I do not have a link maybe someone else knows.

THESE ARE THE ONES

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shock-Extenders-Risers-Extensions-Honda-Kawasaki-Suzuki-Yamaha-MADE-USA-/221591303088?hash=item3397def3b0:g:eaQAAOSw~1FUU3xO&vxp=mtr

something like this but motorcycle specific.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-2007-Tahoe-Yukon-Escalade-Suburban-1500-Front-Shock-Extenders-Lift-Kit-/271683332358?hash=item3f4196a906:g:9K8AAOSwFnFV8dTQ&vxp=mtr

some more, but find some that are strong

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-Shock-Height-Extension-Extender-Risers-ATV-Quad-Pit-Dirt-Motor-Bike-/262001958319?hash=item3d00889daf:g:HC4AAOSwyQtVyr68&vxp=mtr

Please don't buy these and look for radiused curves instead of straight cuts that cause stress risers.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-Shock-Ab...VVzDNM&vxp=mtr

[mattfeet]

Hmm. I could always get longer Ohlins, no? I really wish I had been able to swing the ones you just sold. Anyways, I would prefer to just buy a longer shock off the shelf than use a 1.0" spacer as you linked to in your post.

[posplayr]

Hmm. I could always get longer Ohlins, no? I really wish I had been able to swing the ones you just sold. Anyways, I would prefer to just buy a longer shock off the shelf than use a 1.0" spacer as you linked to in your post.

You can certainly find some QUALITY non-Ohlins that are longer for your $1K bill. The Ohlins are more however.

[mattfeet]

Here is 14.33" S36P eye-to-clevis for $864. I actually have a 10% discount there so these would be <$800 shipped. This is the first Im hearing that the longer shocks would be recommended over keeping the stock suspension geometry. I understand it will quicken the steering input but at what cost? I understand the pro but is there a con?

http://www.dimecitycycles.com/14-33-inch-ohlins-s36p-eye-to-clevis-gas-charged-rear-motorcycle-shock-absorbers.html

[mattfeet]

Also - can you confirm stock rear shock length? I believe it's in the 330mm length, no? Will the Ohlins linked above be TOO long?