Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Brake Service & Tire replacement

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Brake Service & Tire replacement

    Hi guys, Im back (for those that helped me a few months ago, thank you!). I am still in need of front and rear brake service, and 2 new tires (bike sat 10 years).

    I am wondering what all the parts I will need for the brakes and where I can purchase tires at the best prices. I have no idea how to mount or balance the tires, should I have a shop do this to be safe?

    I just purchased the front and rear master cylinder rebuild kits, and I am going to flush the lines with fresh DOT 3 fluid when I am ready. As of right now (before taking anything apart) the front brake works, the rear does not work at all, I can push it easily with the rear applied. I can take the calipers apart and use a small 1" wire wheel to clean. Someone told me to get new crush washers, where do those go and do I really need them?

    Thanks in advance for your help!

    #2
    OK, you are going to have to help us before we can help you.

    WHAT BIKE?????


    Some answers will be generic, however.

    If you have no idea how to mount and balance tires, by all means, let a shop do this. If you buy the tires there, they might charge less, if at all.

    Did you get OEM rebuild kits? Some of the aftermarket kits are not thought of very highly here.

    Did you also get CALIPER rebuild kits?

    You can use DOT3 or DOT4 in your bike with no problems.

    Yes, you will probably need new crush washers. Anywhere you have a brake line that attaches to something, there is a crush washer on each side of the fitting. The bolt goes through a "banjo fitting" on the end of the hose, there will be a crush washer on both sides of the banjo, which means two washers for every bolt. Not knowing what bike you have (hint, hint), we don't know if you have one or two calipers in the front. Also, since we don't know what bike you have (hint, hint), we don't know if your rear has drum or disk brakes.

    Comment


      #3
      Meh, the crush washers can be reused many times if they are not overtorqued. Tire changes can be learned, spend some time on google or youtube, there are some good videos and it's not that hard. The good part of doing it yourself is you will look at the condition of the rims, inner tubes, valve stems, look for corrosion or gouges around the bead, rim strip, a shop won't tell you about any of this. Balancing tires is easy, again, google it.

      As far as brakes, take them apart, clean everything, inspect and replace whatever needs replacing. Often they need nothing but a good cleaning inside and out, and lubing the parts that slide.. And new brake lines, of course.
      http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

      Life is too short to ride an L.

      Comment


        #4
        Go easy on the cleaning with the wire wheel.
        It is easy to score the caliper walls or the the piston surface.
        I have used a Dremel with the small brass wire tool with good results. You can get at the grooves where the piston seals reside.
        2@ \'78 GS1000

        Comment


          #5
          Haha sorry I was not thinking when I posted this.

          Its a 1978 GS1000. I did get OEM Suzuki rebuild kits for the master cylinders, Id rather pay the extra money for factory stuff than get some cheap crap that might not work right.
          I was planning on using a small Matco 90º die grinder with a small steel wire brush on the end, going at a low throttle. Will I need caliper rebuild kits? Or cant I just clean them and lube them?

          Comment


            #6
            Take them apart and see what's inside.
            http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

            Life is too short to ride an L.

            Comment


              #7
              AGAIN don't forget the brake lines, if they have never been changed out do it NOW.
              sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
              1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
              2015 CAN AM RTS


              Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

              Comment


                #8
                What are the brake line lengths? I was trying to measure them on the bike, the fronts seem to have a 20" on top, then goes into a small block and has like a 24" that runs to the caliper, and not a clue what length the rear is, but its at least 30" I think

                Comment


                  #9
                  Do some searching, there are many threads about brake lines and how to make them, or buy them, or what kind to buy.
                  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                  Life is too short to ride an L.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Okay so heres an update. I bought the front and rear master cylinder rebuild kits, according to the year and GS1000C model, but they are wrong. The bike was my grandpas since brand new and he said hes never replaced the master cylinders. The new piston for the front is too large, as well as the rubber that goes on the spring.

                    EDIT::::: The front master cylinder rebuild kit I bought was a Suzuki 59600-47810 which says it fits all models of the 1978 GS1000 models. However, I found that there was a different kind labeled "Asco" and that number is 59600-33810 and I believe this could solve the issue, as the piece that the master cylinder is attached to has Asco in the cast molding. I had no idea if that was even for anything, but I think it solved my problem...





                    Attached Files
                    Last edited by Guest; 03-08-2016, 05:48 PM.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      So I am almost done with everything, but I need to know if the brake lines can be replaced with these:


                      It says ATV brake line but it has the double banjo which is what I need, and I am having trouble finding other brake lines, this was my best result.
                      EDIT:: I did find Spiegler SS lines, but I dont have $210 to buy the complete set. I was wanting to spend $100-$150 on ss lines. But if its very highly recommended I may just spend that kind of money on the lines..
                      Last edited by Guest; 03-19-2016, 04:42 PM.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Brake lines are pretty universal on Japanese bikes; most take 10mm banjo fittings. Once you have measured, you can go to a site like z1enterprsies.com and buy universal lines that have screw in banjo fittings and they sell various fittings with different bend angles I think. JPCycles also sells universal lines. There are stainless braided lines and also teflon jacket and tubing type hose. Either will work fine but I prefer stainless with vinyl cladding or the teflon type hose. If you get plain stainless, it can scratch paint. There are a lot of choices and good brake line costs a lot less than the number you tossed out.

                        Last word... 10mm banjo bolts are common BUT they can have either 1.50 or 1.25 pitch. Buy M10 bolts at the hardware with each pitch and compare them to your current banjo bolts to ensure you get the right thread. if you buy new ones. Stainless banjo bolts are nice. They sell them at places that sell the universal brake lines.

                        One more thing... if your front of rear master cylinders are toast, you can replace them with NEW universal type you can get on eBay. See my post in this forum for a rear master cylinder replacement option. My stock master cylinder was toast and I have used universal front master cylinders as well on other builds and they work fine. For the front you need a 5/8" piston for dual calipers; many will be 1/2" for single.

                        Comment

                        Working...
                        X