Setting stock shocks

[oregonjake]

Okay, suspension stuff is not my strong suite, so I am wondering...

Stock GS1100E shocks have preload and damping adjustments. Right now I have mine set at preload one click from full preload and damping at #4. I know this question might sound a bit silly, but since I don't seem to notice much difference when I adjust, especially in damping, if you were a 225# man, age 62 and riding a combination of city and country roads, and who rides somewhat spirited at times but calm when in traffic, how would you set the suspension? No luggage and no passenger to deal with, what would be optimum settings? Thanks.

[JamesWhut?]

The two things that will start a fight on a motorcycle forum. oil and suspension.

Its all pretty subjective. What you personally like the ride to feel like and what works best for your riding style. You have those knobs on the outside so can play with them. So spin them to full soft and see what that does to handling (carefully). Then find a set up that works best for you.

[phydeauxmutt]

First, start with the preload. Are you sure that "one click from full" is the proper setting? Check that by measuring your "sag". Measure your shocks at full extension (bike unloaded, possibly on the centerstand). Sit on the bike (with full gear and any other 'load' you might normally carry), have a helper measure the shocks. You are looking for 20-25% compression. Most of our shocks have about 4 inches of travel, so you are looking for about 1 inch of compression. Adjust your preload to acheive that number.

If your shocks were in pristine operating condition, I think the damping control is set to about one number less than the preload. Since your preload is currently in the fourth position, damping should be in #3. Reality check time. You really think your shocks are still working as if they were new? Where the damping might have actually had a measureable effect when new, I'll be that right now, the damping ranges from "laughable" to "almost", so it probably doesn't make much difference where you set it.

You should probably consider getting some new shocks. There are always the cheap (<$100) EMGO shocks, but they ride ROUGH.

Next step up is Hagon. For about $200, they are decent shocks. Call Dave Quinn at 203-393-2651, he will get your bike information, weights for you (and passenger?), your gear, etc., and set you up with the proper shock body and spring weight.

Next step up (but not necessarily better) is Progressive. They are about $300. Some like 'em, some don't, but they are a decent option. No choices for damping, but there are a few choices for spring weight.

There are other choices for more money, but these will get your search started.

[oregonjake]

"First, start with the preload. Are you sure that "one click from full" is the proper setting?"

No I am not, that is why I need the guiding light from all of you. I did not know of the 20-25% compression number,I will check that and adjust accordingly tomorrow (rain just started here.)

"If your shocks were in pristine operating condition, I think the damping control is set to about one number less than the preload. Since your preload is currently in the fourth position, damping should be in #3."

Okay, a place for me to start, got it.

However...

"Reality check time. You really think your shocks are still working as if they were new? Where the damping might have actually had a measureable effect when new, I'll be that right now, the damping ranges from "laughable" to "almost", so it probably doesn't make much difference where you set it."

Yeah, I was afraid of that, although I will try the above damping position suggestion just for s*#ts and giggles.

"You should probably consider getting some new shocks."

Fine, but I like the stock look and prefer to keep that if possible. The purist in me is hard to subdue. Would there be replacements that look like OEM?

I have a few debts to pay before spending the money, but once SSI kicks in I can relax a little and get what I need to make her the best she can be.

[oregonjake]

I am befuddled as to what works best for me and what is optimal performance, rideability and comfort. I guess I don't trust my gut on this and am looking for a quantitative definition, which may be impossible.

[JamesWhut?]

I am befuddled as to what works best for me and what is optimal performance, rideability and comfort.

There is no such thing. Even when you think you have it *perfect*, you will notice a nagging difference between when the tank is full and empty, or that one day you like the way it handles and the next you don't. For a street bike ridden by a grownup, it really doesn't matter much, as long as its not dangerous to ride.

There is tons on the web and books about suspension tuning, but it does require some practical experience. You can either OJT it or pay someone to set it up for you, but at the end of the day, it really boils down to what your butt tells you and what you are comfortable and confident in.

[cowboyup3371]

You can buy the Hagon shocks from Z1 now

[Rob S.]

I have mine on full high - damping on 4, spring on 5.

[oregonjake]

I am going to do some adjusting as per the advice here, trying different settings to see what makes my butt happy. It's raining here today but a long ride is planned for Sunday when it clears. Results of what my butt says will be reported here after the test ride.

[bwringer]

You're rearranging the deck chairs on the Titanic, here. These shocks were barely adequate for Suzuki's anorexic ballerina test riders 33 years ago, and they haven't improved a bit with age.

You set these shocks by "setting" them in the recycling bin and putting on fresh modern shocks. The Hagons mentioned above are an excellent, cost-effective choice.

Until then, crank up the preload to the max. It's highly unlikely the damping setting still makes any perceptible difference whatsoever, but crank it up to max as well. Remember, these bikes have suspension set up by Japanese test riders the size of Hobbits (as are all of Suzuki's bikes to this very day). North Americans and Europeans are completely outside the range of stock adjustability.

[Gorminrider]

But setting up the back shocks without setting up the front is not such a good idea, is it?

[Sandy]

But setting up the back shocks without setting up the front is not such a good idea, is it?

Correct. Setting on both ends must compliment each other or you going to get some weird handling. My routine is to first get the front and rear close and then fine tune the front by springrate/spacers and then move on to correct fork oil weight for the riding style etc. I also use zipties on the forks for accurate travel measuring. Then fine tune the rear with whatever adjustments you have, if you can't get the rear right then a shock replacement is probably required. I'm fortunate with our crappy road surfaces around here to find a road with some moderate frost heaves and check to see that the front and rear compress and rebound at the same rate, otherwise it's all a bit of a crap shoot.

[oregonjake]

Suspension is subjective, isn't it? I knew I would have to look at the front end as well, but I have one issue that I have to address first; make work the anti-dive system. The kid I bought her from removed the short link hoses from the modulator valve and capped it off. Thank goodness he didn't remove the valves, just swapped banjo bolts and used a spacer on the longer bolt now through the valve, shorter bolt now holding the brake hose to the caliper. I want to get hoses eventually and have the system work, it will be then that I plan to go through the forks, replace steering bearings, brake pads and start playing with adjusting the forks to match the rear.

Let's not start yet on the air in the forks and how to set that right...unless I should integrate that into my overall front end plan, in which case i'm going to need more adult beverages.

[Rob S.]

Get out the beer - and be prepared for numerous folks to tell you to forget about both the anti-dive and the fork air. I am not one of those folks.

Cycle World (in 1982) said the anti-dive barely worked when new, but they liked the air assist. And they had great things to say about the rear shocks. I'll dig up the quotes soon.

I realize you're working on an '83, but I think they're similar. Just crack a brew and be ready for comments like, "AIR IS BAD! AIR IS BAD!"

[glib]

Remember, these bikes have suspension set up by Japanese test riders the size of Hobbits (as are all of Suzuki's bikes to this very day). North Americans and Europeans are completely outside the range of stock adjustability.

Buahahaha! Must be the same guys who can fit their hands in the microscopic spaces around the engine in my 300ZX. I'm cussing them every time I have to work on that thing.