Suspension for heavy riders.

[Guest]

Hello folks. I am new to the forum and bikes in general. I recently picked up an '82 gs1100gl. Went through all the mechanicals and got everything running well. I had the bike out tonight and it is bottoming out pretty bad. The suspension appears to be original components which I'm sure is a large contributing factor for this, but I am also a pretty big guy. What would be my best options for setting up the suspension for myself? Also, any recommendations on what parts or manufacturers to look for and others to avoid would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[bwringer]

I am also one of The Large, and I have the velocity habit. Hearken unto me:

1) Sonic springs up front. Probably 1.10 kg/mm unless you're some pencil neck pipsqueak. Fresh 10W fork oil.

http://sonicsprings.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=31_222&products_id=812

2) There are a few ways to get the rear up to snuff and several good brands of shocks. Here's what I did:
- Progressive 12 series shocks. You can buy the shock bodies without springs.
- If you're over about 250 pounds, you'll need springs stronger than Progressive's usual heavy-duty recommendation for your bike. After perusing catalogs, I discovered that one can order even stronger springs for 12 series shocks. Just pretend you're ordering shock springs for a 1984 Kawasaki Voyager. I'm about 280 and I'm using the 120/170 shock springs. They also make 140/190.

Also, make sure your brakes are freshly rebuilt with modern pads and stainless lines. They have a lot of moving meat and metal to deal with. Stock GS brakes are actually very effective when they're working right. With old rubber lines and ancient brick-hard pads, they're not worth a damn.


Evidence of largitude and velocitude:

[NJMetalhead]

I am also one of The Large, and I have the velocity habit. Hearken unto me:

1) Sonic springs up front. Probably 1.10 kg/mm unless you're some pencil neck pipsqueak. Fresh 10W fork oil.

http://sonicsprings.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=31_222&products_id=812

2) There are a few ways to get the rear up to snuff and several good brands of shocks. Here's what I did:
- Progressive 12 series shocks. You can buy the shock bodies without springs.
- If you're over about 250 pounds, you'll need springs stronger than Progressive's usual heavy-duty recommendation for your bike. After perusing catalogs, I discovered that one can order even stronger springs for 12 series shocks. Just pretend you're ordering shock springs for a 1984 Kawasaki Voyager. I'm about 280 and I'm using the 120/170 shock springs. They also make 140/190.

Also, make sure your brakes are freshly rebuilt with modern pads and stainless lines. They have a lot of moving meat and metal to deal with. Stock GS brakes are actually very effective when they're working right. With old rubber lines and ancient brick-hard pads, they're not worth a damn.


Evidence of largitude and velocitude:

Hey, thank you for the quick response. I will look into the parts you recommended. I will probably need the heavier springs, I'm pretty well over 250.

I have new EBC pads up front. The front line looks new and the system was dry when I got the bike so that leads me to believe that it was recently replaced. The rear is on my list of things to replace. I also want to upgrade to stainless lines throughout. Brakes feel pretty good for now, but will be doing them anyway.

[850GT_Rider]

I just put Hagon shocks on my GS850. I'm full-figured as well, the bike is loaded with a Windjammer and Bates luggage, and most of our riding is two-up. The people at Hagon matched the spring rate to those specs. $215 for the pair.

I will let you know how they go.

[bwringer]

Yep, the Hagons are also an excellent choice, and pricing is similar to the Progressives.

[NJMetalhead]

Thank you for all the input so far folks.