Need to replace valve stem core

[Guest]

I've got a slow leak in both my tires. Soapy water test showed air leaking out the valve stems, so I believe new valve stem cores are in order. I've never done this before - Autozone sells 'Slime' tool for $2.00 and a set of 4 'Slime' valve stem cores for $2.00. Are there different sizes (other than for big rigs) and should I be worried about Slime quality tool or cores?

Are there any tricks to make sure I don't break the valve stem?

The tires are 5yo Shinkos with plenty of tread left on them, and the rims look good from the exterior. Paying $30/ea to have a shop replace the valve stems at this point seems excessive and I don't want to spend the time (right now) learning how to remove and re-install tires.

[hillsy]

Where is it actually leaking - out of the valve itself or where the valve stem goes into the rim? If it's the latter, you need to remove the tyre.

[cowboyup3371]

If your tires are already 5 years old then I would strongly recommend replacing them anyway with a shop doing the work. I just picked up two Shinko 230 Tourmasters for my daughter's bike mounted on the wheels with tubes out the door for $250 at Iron Pony in Columbus

[hillsy]

And 5 year old tyres are a few years too old IMO.

[Joe Garfield]

It's leaking out the valve itself. I only saw the leak when I put soapy water around the needle.

I'll double-check the year of the tires. How old do you guys consider too old? I've been really happy with the grip, FWIW.


...and tubes?? Are you guys using tubes on 'tubeless' rims?

[cowboyup3371]

Recommended age is 5 yrs max-ish

[Steve]

Back to the original question: there is only one size valve core, even for big-rig trucks.

Get "the tool" if you want, but right next to it on the rack you might find valve caps that have a 'tool' built right into them. Get those, you will always have a 'tool' with you.

.

[mmattockx]

I've got a slow leak in both my tires. Soapy water test showed air leaking out the valve stems, so I believe new valve stem cores are in order. I've never done this before - Autozone sells 'Slime' tool for $2.00 and a set of 4 'Slime' valve stem cores for $2.00. Are there different sizes (other than for big rigs) and should I be worried about Slime quality tool or cores?

Those should be fine, it isn't rocket science at all. You simply slip the end of the tool down over the top of the core and unscrew it like using a screwdriver. The only tip I can think of is letting the air out of the tire first so it doesn't try to blow the core out as you are unscrewing it and possibly strip off the last bit of engaged thread.


Mark

[Cipher]

Try and tighten the ones you have.

[Joe Garfield]

Thanks guys.

FWIW, the tires are only about 3.5 years old (4212 and 5112), and have been in my garage un-weighted for 1.5 years.

[Wingsconsin]

Nomenclature ---

Tires are fine - SUN is the enemy - it breaks down the rubber early.

However - don't cheap out on rubber either..it connects you to the road and good tires are key to control.

Leaking STEM or CORE ?

Tire Valve Stem -


Tire Valve Core -

[Joe Garfield]

It's leaking from inside the valve stem, where the valve core sits (around or through the valve core). I assume that means a leaking valve core and am not sure if there's a way to determine if the inside of the valve stem is bad w/o first checking the core.

I set the wheel such that the valve was at the bottom, facing up. I liberally sprayed soap/water all over the tire, rim, and around the valve stem and saw nothing. I took off the valve stem cap and filled the area around the pin with the solution and it continuously bubbles. Sorry for not having a pic, I thought I was being clear but maybe this is more complicated than I thought?

I feel good about the condition of the tire rubber - they seem soft and tacky, and grip well.

[bwringer]

Yes, you can replace the valve cores easily enough -- they're all the same as Steve said.

The valve stems on your bike are metal, not the rubber ones Wingsconsin posted, but the cores are the same and the principle is the same.

Since both are doing it, it's probable that whoever installed the tires simply under or over-torqued the cores when re-installing them after mounting the tires (you take the core out to quickly deflate the tires, and I often leave it out to allow more airflow to seat the beads, then reinstall the core to inflate the tires). The valves might be fine if you just tighten them a bit, or if they're over-torqued, you'll need to spend the ten (or fifty) cents each to replace them.

Any way you slice it, this is a cheap-n-easy fix.

[Joe Garfield]

Well, it's a freakin' relief to see the valves hold air But it's always something... the cores are set pretty deep inside the stems and I can't use most of my equipment on the valves (inflators, gauges, etc). It was like that before I changed the cores, although I could use one specific gauge on the front which now doesn't work (I have another that I was still able to use).

Cutting the valve stem seems like a PITA (well mostly just annoying). Has anyone ever dealt with this?

The cores that came out were the 'external spring' type, which seem to be 'normally open' and use air pressure to hold them closed. The o-rings were totally shot which I'm sure is the reason they didn't hold air very well.

[Cipher]

I replaced the rubber type stems once. Things had dotten so bad I was able to twist it off in my hands.
A real PITA to seat the new ones though.