Feels like oscillating

[alke46]

Rear sag is only 21 mm and that is with the new hagon shocks set at the middle of 3 settings. I originally had them set on the 1st setting and felt it needed more so I went up to the 2nd and now I am on the low end of the sag numbers.
I will have to go back and start all over again after I change the front springs. Jeff at Sonic is offering to exchange my 1.1's for some 1.0's. After I get those in I will have to play with the shocks on the 1st setting and go from there.
Results will be posted but not for a week or more.
Thanks again for all the suggestions.

Rear sag is 40mm with the shocks set at the lowest setting.

[Ray916MN]

35mm at the front 40mm at the rear is close enough in my book that I'd say it isn't your problem. 35mm at the front with 21mm in the rear might possible result in oscillation. This sag, places the rear end high. which steepens the steering angle and reduces rake which reduces stability. The primary purpose of springs and setting sag is to get your suspension to operate in the proper range from full extension to full compression (suspension doesn't top out or bottom out) relative to rebound and compression damping (suspension valving and oil) which are responsible for damping out oscillations.

A trick to check your steering head bearing when they are lose is to put the bike on the centerstand and lift on the front end while moving it through its steering arc. With the bottom bearing pushed up against the race in the steering nexk, if the race and bearings have developed a flat spot you should be able to feel it.

[alke46]

Many thanks for all the good information so far. It appears that the steering stem nut had just a bit of slack in it to cause the slight movement at the bottom of the forks when moved forward to backward.

After reading about the tension on the stem nut in the FSM, I am confused as to how I should proceed. I have removed the stem and did a thorough inspection of the bearing and it's race and both appear to be in good state. It is obvious by looking at it that someone before me had replaced the original bearings. I now have the bearings cleaned and will repack with waterproof grease but I need advice on how to properly set the tension on the stem nut.

What kind of wrench is required to set it at 36 lb-ft of torque, then reset it to zero and finally it sounds like it should have just enough tension on it to remove any movement of the stem. Then to finalize it, I need to torque the stem center bolt to 26-37.5 lb-ft.

When I removed the stem center bolt, it had very little, if any, tightness. At least it wasn't ham fisted by whoever had it apart before me.

I should ask this: is there a way to tighten the stem nut without purchasing the Suzuki "special" tool?

Thanks in advance.

[alke46]

Also, I have hi-temperature grease suited for wheel bearings but it is not waterproof grease. How important is it to use the waterproof stuff? If necessary, I have no qualms about buying it, just wanted the opinions of the bearing gurus here. Thanks.

[mmattockx]

What kind of wrench is required to set it at 36 lb-ft of torque, then reset it to zero and finally it sounds like it should have just enough tension on it to remove any movement of the stem. Then to finalize it, I need to torque the stem center bolt to 26-37.5 lb-ft.

<snip>

I should ask this: is there a way to tighten the stem nut without purchasing the Suzuki "special" tool?

Well, my manual shows them using the special tool and a standard torque wrench to apply the seating torque. I would use a hook wrench and torque wrench in combination and just set the torque wrench at 90 degrees to the hook wrench to cancel out the extra length added with the hook wrench.

Also, I have hi-temperature grease suited for wheel bearings but it is not waterproof grease. How important is it to use the waterproof stuff? If necessary, I have no qualms about buying it, just wanted the opinions of the bearing gurus here. Thanks.

The stem has seals top and bottom so it isn't crucial that it be waterproof grease but you will end up repacking the bearings sooner with non-waterproof grease. It is there mostly for corrosion protection, so as long as the bearings are covered in it that is the most important thing.


Mark

[alke46]

Bump to the top. So is the consensus here that I need to purchase the Suzuki special tool?

[Sandy]

You shouldn't need the tool, the bearing races are already seated. All you need to do is snug up the bearings to remove any slop, that's all. Snug up the bearing so you have just a very slight drag on it. If they're worn you'll feel some notchyness when moving the bars from side to side in which case they'll need replacing. To adjust loosen all the bolts on the upper triple clamp and you can tap the adjusting nut with a punch or screwdriver to get the slack out and then retorque everything and check again.

[alke46]

Thanks Sandy, that is the information I wanted to see in print. So the special tool is used primarily to seat the bearing into a newly installed race, correct?
My bearing and race are in good condition so I will just remove the play from the stem and then torque the stem bolt.
When I removed the stem bolt it was not loose, but there was no measureable torque to it. I don't know how long it had been like this but for some reason the lack of torque must have caused the stem nut to loosen a bit. Glad I caught it before it did any real damage.
Thanks again.

[mmattockx]

So the special tool is used primarily to seat the bearing into a newly installed race, correct?

According to the manual, yes. As I said, you can use a generic hook wrench instead of the special tool and it will work fine as well.

I don't know how long it had been like this but for some reason the lack of torque must have caused the stem nut to loosen a bit.

The stem head nut is acting as a jam nut on the stem nut (with the upper triple clamped in between them), so it not being tight would certainly allow the stem nut to work loose. It doesn't take much movement on the stem nut to allow the forks to move a bit and mess up the handling, it is very sensitive to the preload the stem nut is keeping on the bearings.


Mark

[alke46]

Time for an update. I received the 1.0 sonic springs and installed them with the 1/2" preload and then measured the sag and am now at 40 mm front and back.
I will take it out for a test ride tomorrow and see how it feels. I suspect a new front tire may be necessary to smooth out the ride completely. We'll see.
If necessary, I will change out the Shinko front for a Continental just to see if I get the desired improvement. Even though there is a lot of mileage left in the Shinko.