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Forks jump when braking

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    #16
    Oh yeah...shaft oscillation will cause all sorts of problems. Off subject work issue but totally pertains - I just took a pump motor out due to front shaft looseness {bushing type}. The motor wouldn't run and the shaft was gummed up due to excess clearance...pulled it apart and cleaned the crud out of the drive end bell and now it'll spin up fine....but, to put it back in would just be a matter of time before it did it again {I need a bell end or bushing - bell and gossett water pump}.
    Your axle looseness will just add oscillation even if you clean it up now...it's just a matter of time before it returns - you need to see if the inner bearing race is worn/opened up or if the axle is worn smaller...or both. Mic the axle surface where the bearings go and compare to other areas to look for a worn area. If it's all good, then the bearing inner ID might be suspect. When I swapped out oem open bearings on my old FJ1100 the new bearings were sealed...{and cheaper then oem!}.

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      #17
      Originally posted by Joe Garfield View Post
      The HF indicator is awesome. It's probably my favorite all-time purchase from there. If I was doing it again I'd get the one with the flexible clamp, assuming it's the same indicator. The magnetic stand is crap.
      I've got the mag stand type with the movable rod arms...the magnet works well enough...on steel.

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        #18
        I didn't check to see if they even have what you need but I like dealing with bearings direct for works pillow block shaft bearings....Carrier replacements were $300.00 for the pair....exact same thing but not going thru Carrier was $42 and some change shipped...3 years running on those and they're fine. Food for thought - shop around the web!

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          #19
          Bob......So im taking that as a yes on the bearings in the link I posted fitting the rim???
          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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            #20
            Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
            Bob......So im taking that as a yes on the bearings in the link I posted fitting the rim???
            Yeah...my two cents was for folks who think that the dealer was the only source out there for certain things just doesn't have to be true...and you outsourced as you should!

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              #21
              Im not a bearing "ologist" so I wanted confirmation as to what I had found before pulling the trigger. Thanks for the help.
              MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
              1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

              NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


              I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

              Comment


                #22
                Lol...me neither...I just know that if the cycle shops open bearings cost twice as much as the better sealed bearings....and I happen to know the measurements so I can search...I'd go the cheaper route.
                Dealerships have to mark things up to cover operating costs.
                Web stores in this day and age make this event less painful, cost wise.

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                  #23
                  I'm just tossing this out for anyone to use, but as I recall then, and would still do today, is this-
                  The service manager at the old cycle shop once told me how to do this;
                  -bike on center stand, prop up front end under the engine block with a piece of wood {I used a section of 2x4} so the front wheel is in the air, remove caliper{s} for total free wheeling and no brake drag, spin wheel and mark with a piece of tape where it stops...spin again and look for the wheel to not stop in the same spots {bad bearings}. When the wheel is up, get a buddy to hold the cycle while you grab the wheel and try to twist it {one hand top and the other bottom}...your looking for lateral movement. This is a good time to check steering head movement too and even easier if you remove the wheel.....

                  When all done and the rear wheel is up {alot easier on chain drive bikes} get a buddy to hold the bike while you try twisting the swing arm side to side...loose swing arm bearings/bushings check

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                    Only thing I found was the wheel bearing felt just a tad notchy ( just enough to actually feel it ) when my pinkey finger rolled them round. Next I stuck the axle in and moved up and down and could actually visually observe movement of the inner race in relation to the rubber dust seals.

                    So, My conclusion is that when i apply the brake the jitterings because of wheel bearing headed south. Sound about right???
                    Sounds reasonable to me.

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                      #25
                      Dont know if it was the new bearings or the new brake lines ( had new ones made at Central Oklahoma Hose ) but the situation is resolved.
                      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                      Comment

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