So outside piston (nearest the wheel) came out with the airline no issues but the inner one just wont budge. I rebuilt the calliper and rebled but it still wont shift. I cant buy a piston remover for 35mm pistons (inner piston size.) Any other thoughts on how to get it shifted as its got me scratching my head for ideas.
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GS1000E rear calliper piston issues.
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GS1000E rear calliper piston issues.
The old girl has been sat in the garage, loved but not ridden for the last 6 years. So I thought why not do a bit of fettling on her. Spun the rear wheel and its seized solid. After deliberation found out it was the rear brake that seized on tight. Master cylinder looks and seems to be pumping ok fo I focused on the calliper. Usual pins are jammed in so split calliper to get the pads and pins out as I hate cutting the pins and then trying to get a bit of pin out.
So outside piston (nearest the wheel) came out with the airline no issues but the inner one just wont budge. I rebuilt the calliper and rebled but it still wont shift. I cant buy a piston remover for 35mm pistons (inner piston size.) Any other thoughts on how to get it shifted as its got me scratching my head for ideas.Tags: None
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sharpy
assemble it all back together, leaving out the brake pads. rig up some G-clamps with 2 steel bars/tyre levers to hold the good piston in its place. thus putting all the pressure on the stuck piston when you pump the brake pedal.
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Originally posted by Suzuki Mad View PostAny other thoughts on how to get it shifted as its got me scratching my head for ideas.
Mark1982 GS1100E
1998 ZX-6R
2005 KTM 450EXC
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Originally posted by mmattockx View PostSome guys rig up an adapter for a grease gun on the bleed nipple hole and use that to pump the piston out. I have never had to do that, but I've been lucky so far.
Mark
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Originally posted by sharpy View Postassemble it all back together, leaving out the brake pads. rig up some G-clamps with 2 steel bars/tyre levers to hold the good piston in its place. thus putting all the pressure on the stuck piston when you pump the brake pedal.
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I have had luck with boiling the caliper in a pot of water for 10 mins or so, and then quench with cold water, after that it sometimes comes out right away. You may need to do it 2 -3 times.
if the caliper is not all the way in you push it the last few mm and that can free it up as well.
Lastly the grease gun method is safe and it works very well if you have a good quality grease gun, you do need one grease nipple fitting and you will need to sacrifice one banjo bolt to make the fitting.
Good luck.
David2018 Honda Africa Twin AS
2013 DR 650 Grey, sold 1981 GS 650E Silver,
1980 GS1000ST Blue & White, X2
2012 DL650 Vstrom Foxy Orange, in storage
1981 CT110 X2 "Postie Bikes" Gone to a New Home.
2002 BMW 1150 GS Blue & White - Sold
1975 BMW R90/6 Black - Sold 1984 GS1150EF Sold
1982 BMW R100 Africa trip, Stolen - Recovered- Sold
1977-1980 Suzuki GS550, GS1000E, GS1000S GSX750, GSX1100,s
Hondas ST90, CR125 CB175 , CB350 CB750, NSU Quickly, Yamaha RD's 350/400,
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Originally posted by Kiwi Canuck View PostI have had luck with boiling the caliper in a pot of water for 10 mins or so, and then quench with cold water, after that it sometimes comes out right away. You may need to do it 2 -3 times.
if the caliper is not all the way in you push it the last few mm and that can free it up as well.
Lastly the grease gun method is safe and it works very well if you have a good quality grease gun, you do need one grease nipple fitting and you will need to sacrifice one banjo bolt to make the fitting.
Good luck.
David
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Just an update on the stuck piston.
I gave it a spray in brake cleaner last night and left it till this evening. Rebuilt the calliper and jammed the free moving piston and applied air to the banjo fitting. Low and behold the piston came out. Slowly at first but it came out.
Sadly the the seals, piston are all shot on the stuck side.
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