'notchy' steering 83 GS650GL

[kochic]

If you have a welder, just run a bead inside the cup.The outer race will fall on the floor by itself.The weld shrink the cup.I removed a set last week.
For the bottom bearing on the steering stem, I remove the rollers and with a torch I heat just a little spot red the inside race, once its red, hit the red spot with a hammer.The inner race will slide easily since its out of round and expanded after the blow.I press the new one with a 20T press, but a piece of tube of a punch one side at a time is fine.
Marc

[Redman]

Thanks for all of the quick replies! I live in Metro Detroit, in Saint Clair Shores - profile updated. Looks like I have a nice weekend winter project.

Looks like you are getting some good advice from folks with more experience than me. FOr those guys it would be a day project, for me it was about 2 weeks.
'
'I dont know of other Detroit area members. THere was another fellow from St Clair Shore but have seen him here in recent months. I know of some from AA and Marysville, which isnt that close.
I am about 10 miles from the west end of I-96.

.

[Redman]

Dennis Kirk, out of Wisconson, general purpose mo'cykl arts and accesory, with a great catalog.

FOr 83 GS650GK (hey, is same set as for what I got)

https://www.denniskirk.com/all-balls/steering-stem-bearing-kits-22-1004-a.p121424.prd/121424.sku

$30.50

All Balls Steering Stem Bearings - 22-1004-A

This item fits your 1983 Suzuki GS650GL

Drop-in replacement for OEM ball-type bearings Tapered roller bearings decrease maintenance Less wear; longer life INCLUDED ITEMS: Two bearings Two seals UPPER BEARING DIMENSIONS: Inside Diameter: 25mm/.99 in. Outside Diameter: 47mm/1.85 in. Width: 15mm/.91 in. LOWER BEARING DIMENSIONS: Inside Diameter: 30mm Outside Diameter: 55mm Width: 18mm

[Redman]

Oh.... 850
850GL

That same DennisKirk All-Balls number is also listed for 83 850G, but does not specifically list 850GL.


But if look at zuki microfische for 850GD and lthe one for 850GLD, they both (dispite the micorfische picture diagram looking different) list the same Suzuki OEM part numbers for the respective bearing.





The number 2 (and 3) is the lower bearing, dispite it being shown up nexst to the upper bearing (24).

[mhobryan]

Looks like you are getting some good advice from folks with more experience than me. FOr those guys it would be a day project, for me it was about 2 weeks.
'
'I dont know of other Detroit area members. THere was another fellow from St Clair Shore but have seen him here in recent months. I know of some from AA and Marysville, which isnt that close.
I am about 10 miles from the west end of I-96.

.

I think I may have met that fellow ... I was more active on here about 4-5 years ago when I had my 80 650GS. At the time he was riding a 1100Gsomething...it was dark out, his bike was white. Nice fellow....I'm guessing in his early-mid 50's.

I hope it doesn't take me two weeks! However, first project is refreshing the clutch springs and clutch cable. It's kind of stiff, and is the only flaw my wife pointed out...I want her to have fun with it too (BTW, yes she rides her own...this is a second bike for the both of us...that's how I justified the purchase anyway). My wife and I have been known to ride out to Grand Rapids for lunch, and back...maybe you could meet us out there some time? My longest one day round trip 'for lunch' was to Legg's Inn and back.

[Steve]

If you have not yet gotten your clutch parts, get official Suzuki parts. The springs are strong enough for just about anything less than a full-out race bike and have a nice, easy pull. Suzuki cables feel about the same as any aftermarket cable, but they tend to keep that light feel longer. The inner liner is a better quality, keeping it from wearing out as quickly.

.

[mhobryan]

If you have not yet gotten your clutch parts, get official Suzuki parts. The springs are strong enough for just about anything less than a full-out race bike and have a nice, easy pull. Suzuki cables feel about the same as any aftermarket cable, but they tend to keep that light feel longer. The inner liner is a better quality, keeping it from wearing out as quickly.

.

Sure did ... ordered them off of partzilla; both cable and the 6 springs as well as a new gasket. Also just received my Haynes manual, and feeler gauges (set I have only go down to .003 or .004 thousandths). I wanted to do this as my first project, as the clutch feel is what my wife complained about the most. However, don't think I will get the parts until next week, so will most likely start on adjusting the valves. Too bad it's not like adjusting the valves on my A/C VW Bus...can knock out the job in 30 min, tops.

[Steve]

Too bad it's not like adjusting the valves on my A/C VW Bus...can knock out the job in 30 min, tops.

The first time you check clearances, you should inventory all your shims after you check your clearances. To help you record what you have and figure out what you need, take a look at the offer in my signature.

Since you have a bunch more work to do the first time through, and you are not as familiar with the process, allow about 2 hours. After doing it a few times, you will get quicker. Mainly because you won't have as many shims to change, but also because you will be able to have the necessary shims onhand and not wait for them. I have been known to do the job in as little as 45 minutes from the time I put the bike on the centerstand to the time I hit the starter button. You really should allow a few more minutes to do a carb sync, especially if you had to change any shims.

.

[mhobryan]

The first time you check clearances, you should inventory all your shims after you check your clearances. To help you record what you have and figure out what you need, take a look at the offer in my signature.

Since you have a bunch more work to do the first time through, and you are not as familiar with the process, allow about 2 hours. After doing it a few times, you will get quicker. Mainly because you won't have as many shims to change, but also because you will be able to have the necessary shims onhand and not wait for them. I have been known to do the job in as little as 45 minutes from the time I put the bike on the centerstand to the time I hit the starter button. You really should allow a few more minutes to do a carb sync, especially if you had to change any shims.

.

Thanks for the offer Steve. I will take you up on it. I did the valves on both of my 650 GS's, so am familiar with the process, just whining about it.

I Finally got around to replacing the springs and clutch cable. Made a huge difference in the pull effort on the clutch hande, and put a smile on my wife's face. Next will be valve adjustment, and carb balance. After that neck bearings and fork seals, then after that a brake flush. With the work the PO did (carb rebuild, new tires, new exhaust gaskets), she should be good to go.

[mhobryan]

Just finished the job this weekend. I had started it back in the winter but life seriously got in the way. Anyways thought I'd provide my two cents on the job.

It probably took me about 20-25 hours to complete, but, I also did my fork seals. I needed fork seals, because my forks were pitted. So along with replacing the seals, I also had to knock the rough edges off and then fill and wet sand the pits that were left. I also had to take the forks completely apart, as the seals were leaking so badly it had let water in, and I had to clean out all the goop...ergo, as time goes, YMMV.

Cutting out the races with a dremel wasn't too bad, but getting lower the race and bearings, off the stem was a pita ... had to cut them off, and it took quite a bit of effort to get the new bearings back on the stem. The next t challenging was getting the headlight assembly, and all of the rubber donuts back on and lined up. After reassembly the space between the two trees had 'grown' by about 1/8 - 3/16 of an inch, so bought some nylon washers that had nearly the same ID and OD as the rubber donuts, and slipped those in between the front chrome cover and the lower triple tree. This seemed to work very well.

Next hardest was getting the forks installed into the triple tree....I worked up a sweat! had the clamps widened as far as i dare, and used liberal amounts of WD-40...seemed to be stiffest at the rubber donuts.

Other than that, it wasn't too complicated...it seemed weird just to leave the wiring harness, handle bars, and brake lines strewn all over the tank and the front of the bike, but it worked fine...no need to disassemble all of that.

Best part..... no more notchy steering!

[Redman]

J......
Best part..... no more notchy steering!

After replacing my notchy steering bearings I found that I had to be be carefull when going straight, sometimes doing something like looking off to the side, or adjusting my seating position and I was inadvertantly making steering input that previously would not happen because it use to take specific effort to make that steering input.

[mhobryan]

Couple more thoughts..... I took it out for a quick lap around the block.....front end was super, super sloppy... I was like WTF? I have to say I turned the neck bearing adjuster at least 4-5 and maybe even 6 turns before it became close to being seated. I suspect that the lower race needed to be recessed below the neck of the frame by a good 3/16 of an inch.

Although, I gotta admit, it's pretty cool having an old GS (almost) push start and go. Between myself and the PO, much work has been done. R/R, complete carb rebuild including new diaphragms, new intake gaskets, new tires, valves adjusted, new clutch springs and clutch cable, new fork seals, new neck bearings, new front wheel bearings.

So she's ready for some Sunday rides, but before I take her on any mega distances, need to flush/refurbish the brakes. Granted, they work fine now, but can tell they need a good refresh.