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    #1

    squirrelly handling

    Hi all,

    In the past month over very few miles, maybe 500, my GS850 has been getting squirrelly. It feels loose and wants to wander when I decelerate or hit a rough spot. The head bearings don't feel notchy, but don't feel good. Kind of smooth 5 degrees off center then it get tight and then loose. New head bearings are on order and will install them after Christmas.

    I tried rocking the wheels side to side and the swing arm, nothing. New-ish progressive shocks. The fork oil could be low and is probably 5+ years old. Tires look good and about 5 years old.

    Any other ideas or things I should check.

    Thanks.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Well you have the steering stem bearings covered, tyres are likely at the end of their life due to age, as for fork oil being low are they leaking? If so new seals and oil are in order providing the fork legs are not pitted in the wear area and there is no play in the bushes if they are pitted look for replacement or a place that will rechrome them.
    personally I would do the head bearings and test and go from there.
    The big guy up there rides a Suzuki (this I know)
    1981 gs850gx

    1999 RF900
    past bikes. RF900
    TL1000s
    Hayabusa
    gsx 750f x2
    197cc Francis Barnett
    various British nails

    Comment

      #3
      I think your 850 will love its new steering head bearings. What a great Christmas gift idea. 👍
      My Motorcycles:
      22 Kawasaki Z900 RS (Candy Tone Blue)
      22 BMW K1600GT (Probably been to a town near you)
      82 1100e Drag Bike (needs race engine)
      81 1100e Street Bike (with race engine)
      79 1000e (all original)
      82 850g (all original)
      80 KZ 650F (needs restored)

      Comment

        #4
        Getting rid of the squirrels would be a start
        sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
        1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
        2015 CAN AM RTS


        Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

        Comment

          #5
          Sorry, that was just too good not too lol.
          sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
          1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
          2015 CAN AM RTS


          Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

          Comment

            #6
            Don't forget that most of the "front end problems" are actually problems in the rear.

            Check your swingarm bearings. Fortunately, they are tapered roller bearings, so it's just a matter of loosening the locknut and checking the tension on the bearing, then re-doing the locknut.

            .
            sigpic
            mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
            hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
            #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
            #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
            Family Portrait
            Siblings and Spouses
            Mom's first ride
            Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
            (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

            Comment

              #7
              The new head bearings must have excised the squirrels because its back to normal. Damn nutters.

              Just a couple of notes. I was able to remove the lower outer race using a big flat blade screw driver, bock of wood, and hammer. The screw driver was placed with the tip on the top of race and shaft on the bottom of the head tube (kind of parallel to the race, extending out the bottom of the head tube). I used my knee on the the screw driver handle to hold it in place and used the bock of wood and hammer to hit the screw driver shaft from the top. This only moves the race down until it is flush with the head tube. At that point there is more room to get a tool on the top of the race from the top. Yes, modifying a long bolt of piece of metal would have been easier but I didn't have either of these.

              I used a cutoff wheel to remove the inner lower race from the lower triple. Heat and hammering didn't do much.

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