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Fork Seal Will Not Seat

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    Fork Seal Will Not Seat

    Finally got around to changing a leaking fork seal today. Was able to remove the old one using a pick without having to fully disassemble the forks. But I have not been able to get the new seal to seat. Tried the homemade slide hammer PVC pipe and also electrical tape but the seal seems to bottom out about 3/16 above the lower tube every time.

    #2
    Is the shim still in between the top of the fork and the seal maybe?
    Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

    1981 GS550T - My First
    1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
    2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

    Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
    Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
    and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

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      #3
      Sounds familiar. I had the same problem. I forced the issue. Turns out that seal was installed upside down and ultimately leaked. It was telling me something and I refused to listen.
      sigpic
      When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"

      Glen
      -85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
      -Rusty old scooter.
      Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
      https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
      https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/

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        #4
        What shim are you speaking of?

        I tried installing them both right side up and upside down with the same results. Assuming the top is the side with the numbers. The Bikecliff site states the open edge of the seal with the coil spring faces down and though I have springs on both sides I believe I have this right.

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          #5
          I’m on my phone right now and can’t copy/paste from the fiche very well but there may be a thin metal spacer type shim that sits between the seal and the fork cavity. That could still be in there but without pictures and without taking the forks apart fully you may not see it.
          Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

          1981 GS550T - My First
          1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
          2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

          Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
          Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
          and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

          Comment


            #6
            The shim should be below the circlip and above the seal and the spring in the seal should be on the bottom. I have changed both my fork seals this weekend and it pays to strip the forks down than to try any other way, it works out quicker and easier in the long run.
            Jeff

            Living the dream...

            1980 GS1000 that has been modestly modified. https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ilies/cool.png

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              #7
              heres a crop from the fiche at cmnsl.com You should goto your favourite fiche site and double check as there are several varieties of 750 that year...though they looked roughly the same as this. and yes, printing is up, though sometimes the old moulds make it hard to tell! of course be careful you have the right seal as to dimensions too. Some cross-referenced ones like Athena can be too tall for the lock ring (11)
              suzuki-gs750-1978-c-usa-e03-front-fork-gs750ec.jpg

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                #8
                I always take em down and brass wheel the hole out a bit to remove all of the leftover crud from the ancient seals. Always get a good seat that way.

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