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removing petrified front fork seals

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    removing petrified front fork seals

    Unlike many, was able to get the allen bolt at the bottom loose with my impact w/o the use of a special tool to hold in place, so was able to get everything a part.

    However, the old seals are petrified, and have a death grip on the fork. I've resorted to needle nose pliers, small screw drivers, and a straight blade to pick them out. It's really slow going.

    Any hints tips on how to extract? any particular solvent I could use that might soften them up and loosen the death grip?

    #2
    I,ve never seen fork seals glue them selves in the way you seem to describe but a heat gun should soften them up if fork oil doesn't do it. I hesitate to say get a torch and burn the suckers off. Some kind of solvent- gum-off or even lighter fluid would be better.


    Some of my bikes need this next instruction others, not-the stanchions will just come through the seals :
    If you are feeling the stanchion slide up and stop at the seal, then use the fork stanchion as slide hammer and the seal will pop out. BUT, of course, the circlip above the seal must be removed first. There IS a circlip of some sort there, be sure of that.
    ...and, in every case, keep those tools away from the stanchion's chrome- remove the springs and push the stanchions all the way into the lowers so you don't wreck the chrome that normally works on the seals.
    Last edited by Gorminrider; 04-29-2018, 07:52 PM.

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      #3
      Thanks for the tip ... didn't think about heat. The chrome on my forks is going to need a little massaging; have some pits that will need to be smoothed out.

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        #4
        I hate those pits! Forks are getting pricey and hard to find.....I've had ok luck with sharpening stones for small pits...wetndry sand paper..meh,ok BUT only on a block. Someday, I may try solder or epoxy if I get desperate.

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          #5
          A fork seal puller is an inexpensive lever type tool to pry seals out. I like the ideas above about heat as I use heat to unlock many things.. My ''79 gs1000 seals were very locked in and I didn't think of heat but I found a neat trick cutting a dowel to length just under the seal and then a prytool can leverage on the top of the dowel. I ended up grinding a piece of metal to fab my prytool just bc it was in front of me. another trick is to get a long screwdriver in through the bottom bolt and catch the edge of the seal to hammer is out. That didn't work for mine,.
          1979 gs1000e (everyday) 1977 gs750 for sale
          1983 yam xj550 maxim streetbob sold
          1995 gsx750F everyday fighterjet 1990 gsx1100F for sale
          2000kaw zx600
          2003 BMW K1200GT sport tour
          2000Buel Cyclone M2 motorwork
          1984 Yam venture xvz1200 -long ride/cold ride ride gf ride..
          1978 Honda cb750F3 supersport top end (still)
          1976 Harley FL 3/8" S&S stroker - motor out way too long
          1980 Harley fxs80 - wacked good on this one

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            #6
            I used an awl to punch into the metal portion of the seal, and was able to pry it out without a problem.

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              #7
              How did you get the hex bolt out? I will be trying this soon.
              Jordan

              1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
              2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
              1973 BMW R75/5

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                #8
                Originally posted by hannibal View Post
                How did you get the hex bolt out? I will be trying this soon.
                I found a seal puller at AutoZone, wasn't too badly priced and got the job done quick.

                To get the hex bolt out the bottom: I don't have a welder BUT I do have some Gorilla Glue Epoxy. One bolt with a 19mm head + some nuts + one coupling + 1 threaded rod = one homegrown hex bolt removing solution. My 850 has an 8mm head on the bottom. Red Green would've been proud and by golly, it worked!

                Ken

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