Fudge!!

[mmattockx]

I’ve never thought to loosen the yoke bolts when working with the caps , but it makes perfect sense. I’ve gotten lucky...

I just installed Sonic fork springs in my ZX6R a week ago. Those big, thin-wall fork tubes were completely pinched in by the top triple bolts and the caps would not move for anything until I unscrewed the pinch bolts (forgot to loosen the pinch bolt on the first tube...). Then they came loose with just a bump to break the connection loose and then finger tight after that. The smaller, heavy wall tubes on our GS's might not be so sensitive to the clamping forces, but I still undo the top triple bolts before unscrewing the caps.


Mark

[bwringer]

Huh. Never seen that before.

Yep, I learned long ago to loosen the pinch bolts before removing and to install these things with little to no torque. I mean, why do so many people crank 'em in there so hard? Why do people think the fork caps are going to unscrew themselves, and how? It's a stationary assembly.

[glib]

Huh. Never seen that before.

Yep, I learned long ago to loosen the pinch bolts before removing and to install these things with little to no torque. I mean, why do so many people crank 'em in there so hard? Why do people think the fork caps are going to unscrew themselves, and how? It's a stationary assembly.

I don’t know the answer for anyone but myself and it is simply that I did not think it through and it was a big ass nut and I cranked it down. I don’t even remember doing it but big nuts don’t usually mean hand tight. Also when you are working on something that can kill you if you get it wrong, it’s not hard to imagine that maybe tighter is better. That’s why I share my blunders. Maybe someone will avoid them as a result.

[posplayr]

I don’t know the answer for anyone but myself and it is simply that I did not think it through and it was a big ass nut and I cranked it down. I don’t even remember doing it but big nuts don’t usually mean hand tight. Also when you are working on something that can kill you if you get it wrong, it’s not hard to imagine that maybe tighter is better. That’s why I share my blunders. Maybe someone will avoid them as a result.

Thanks for posting this thread. I can only imagine that you are 1 in 100 for posting such a booboo . I hope no one is attacking you rather trying to figure out how it happened.

sounds like you twisted off the nut tightening?

[Buffalo Bill]

Well, I don't think it's a hard skill to learn how to estimate the maximum torque capacity of nuts and bolts, but there is a learning curve.
You'll never make that mistake again.

[glib]

Thanks for posting this thread. I can only imagine that you are 1 in 100 for posting such a booboo . I hope no one is attacking you rather trying to figure out how it happened.

sounds like you twisted off the nut tightening?

Loosening. I was about to adjust my emulators. I did learn quite well however as when I just now removed the other one for a picture, it came off with ease.

[glib]

Here is what an ES cap looks like in case anyone has one. I’m posting in parts wanted as well.

A36C1577-ADB9-42C6-8524-5A1599F6EE8D by Gary L, on Flickr

[glib]

Well, I don't think it's a hard skill to learn how to estimate the maximum torque capacity of nuts and bolts, but there is a learning curve.
You'll never make that mistake again.

Years ago I did a head gasket on a Jaguar (to save money) and when I lifted the head I broke a plastic connector off the ac compressor. I had no idea how to fix it so it cost me $400 to get it fixed. Now I do my own ac work.

Nothing to do with torque but it puts a forty dollar f up in perspective.

[Fjbj40]

According to the parts fiche I am looking at the 83 1100esd and the 84 1150 are the same p/n.

https://www.ronniesmailorder.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d40429f8700230d8b4eccf/front-damper-gs1100esd

https://www.ronniesmailorder.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d4052bf8700230d8b4ef10/front-damper

[hannibal]

Thanks for sharing. I will be replacing my fork springs soon and would not have thought to loosen the clamp bolt first.

[glib]

According to the parts fiche I am looking at the 83 1100esd and the 84 1150 are the same p/n.

https://www.ronniesmailorder.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d40429f8700230d8b4eccf/front-damper-gs1100esd

https://www.ronniesmailorder.com/oem...0/front-damper

They (83) are different on BikeBandit.

https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/1983-suzuki-gs1100es/o/m21334#sch270504

Who do ya trust?

[glib]

In the department of you learn something new every day ... I’ve never thought to loosen the yoke bolts when working with the caps , but it makes perfect sense. I’ve gotten lucky...
Glib, if 1150 caps will work I have a spare you can have. Same diameter fork as far as I know. Not sure of other details though.

So it's a question mark now that "Ronnies" shows the same part number and bikebandit shows a different one. Think you could post a picture so we could compare?

Edit: Partzilla agrees with Ronnies BTW so I'm hopeful.

[dorkburger]

Looks pretty darn similar to me....
http://Untitled by Glen Brenner, on Flickr

http://Untitled by Glen Brenner, on Flickr

http://Untitled by Glen Brenner, on Flickr

[dorkburger]

I can't from your picture how wide the preload shaft thingy is (part your thumb is on).

[bwringer]

Bikebandit obfuscates part numbers to discourage comparison shopping; they somehow convert Suzuki part numbers to their own doofy part numbers. If you're looking at the same part on a different fiche, it can show a different BikeBandit part number. This, along with their nutso pricing, is why I won't order from them.

Most other OEM Suzuki parts sources use the original Suzuki part numbers, so you can safely use these part numbers to cross-reference.


Here's the site I use most often -- there are several others:

https://www.onlinecycleparts.com

The Suzuki part number for this cap is: 51351-49540

To cross-reference the part number, punch it in here, and click search:

https://www.onlinecycleparts.com/oemparts/partsearch/suzuki_motorcycle

Then, click "Where Used" to see what other bikes the part is used on. In this case, it's 82-83 GS1100E and ES, as well as all variants of the 84-86 GS1150 (E, ES, ESF, ESG, etc).

I don’t know the answer for anyone but myself and it is simply that I did not think it through and it was a big ass nut and I cranked it down. I don’t even remember doing it but big nuts don’t usually mean hand tight. Also when you are working on something that can kill you if you get it wrong, it’s not hard to imagine that maybe tighter is better. That’s why I share my blunders. Maybe someone will avoid them as a result.

This is somewhat beside the mechanical point, but I think I owe you an apology -- for some reason, I automatically attributed the original overtorquing to the dreaded Previous Owner and not you, so my words were harsher than needed. Many thanks for sharing the problem so everyone can learn!