Front end upgrades

[hannibal]

I've had my bike for 3 years now and I'm finally getting around to tackling the front suspension and brakes. I have new Sonic Springs going in with fork seals, dust boots, and fresh fork oil. On the advice of a forum member, I'm considering adding Mikes XS emulators as well. I've got lower fork legs from an E model to convert to the dual disc setup and I'll be installing Kawasaki 2 piston calipers using Salty Monk's kit along with Honda rotors and a 5/8" master cylinder.

What are your thoughts on using emulators? I'm a bit afraid of drilling the damper rod but I hope it will seem easier once I see how the damper rods look. I'm considering replacing the steering stem bearings with All Balls bearings. It says I may need to modify the steering stem (here) but a forum member said it's not necessary. Has anyone installed All Balls bearings and can comment on this? Should I also replace the wheel bearings? Any other items to replace while I'm removing the forks?

I learned in a recent thread to loosen the upper clamp bolts before trying to loosen the fork caps. Any other tips/tricks or parts to inspect/replace while working on the front end?

[dorkburger]

Can't comment on the bearings, but the emulator install is fairly straightforward, as is drilling the damper rods.

Many have reported great improvements from replacing the springs with new straight rate ones properly matched to the riders weght alone without adding emulators.

I picked up emulators and sonic springs, slightly used, from a member here. Great upgrade.

[Steve]

I learned in a recent thread to loosen the upper clamp bolts before trying to loosen the fork caps. Any other tips/tricks or parts to inspect/replace while working on the front end?

I have found it easiest to loosen the upper AND lower clamp bolts, slide the fork tubes up a bit, snug the lower clamp, then loosen the cap. You will have the advantage of using the whole bike as a vise, leaving you to conentrate on removing the cap.

When you put the caps back on, skip the preload spacers. Thread the caps on about one full turn. Use a sharpie, make a mark on the cap near the edge. While pulling on the cap, slowly rotate the tube to remove the cap. Note where the mark on the cap is when it releases, make a matching mark on the fork tube. Now, when you install the spacers and are pushing against the preload, you KNOW where the threads will start grabbing.

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[hannibal]

Thanks for the advice!

[johnod]

Can't comment on the bearings, but the emulator install is fairly straightforward, as is drilling the damper rods.

Many have reported great improvements from replacing the springs with new straight rate ones properly matched to the riders weght alone without adding emulators.

I picked up emulators and sonic springs, slightly used, from a member here. Great upgrade.

^^^ What he said, springs and emulators work great ,you'll be pleased with the results.

[salty_monk]

Emulators work well but you need to set them up... they split the compression & Rebound circuits so that the OIL WEIGHT now controls only rebound and you adjust the emulator to get the compression damping you want relative to that oil weight.

[Big T]

Skip the All Balls unless you really need to replace the bearings
If they do need replacing, take them to your local bearings shop and buy better bearings for less money

[hannibal]

Thanks guys! Time to get these forks off...