Sonic Springs Install Help Please

[johnod]

I'm installing a set of Sonic springs on my GS1000S

Am a little confused re spring spacers.

This is what is on the website.

NOTE A: Cutting spacers
The purpose of the spacers is to provide the proper amount of pre-load on the springs. In general, street bikes need about ¾” of pre-load, assuming that the spring rate is correct for the weight of the bike and rider. So the question is, how do we determine the right length for the spacer?
Take the fork cap, and if it has a pre-load adjustment, set it in the middle. Now measure the depth of the cap from the bottom to the base of the portion that sits against the top of the fork tube. Include any stock washer that will sit on top of the spacer. Basically we’re measuring the length of the portion that fits inside the fork tube.
Say for example that this length is 2”. If we cut the spacer so that with the spring, washer and spacer installed it came up flush with the top of the fork tube, when we installed the fork cap the spring would be compressed 2”. Too much. So we need to cut the spacer shorter to get the proper pre-load. In this case 1 ¼” shorter. Easiest way to measure this is to put the spring, washer and uncut spacer in the extended fork leg. Mark the spacer tube even with the top of the fork tube. Pull the spacer out and measure 1 ¼” down from the mark. Mark and cut from that point. Now, when you put the spring, washer and spacer in, the top of the spacer should be 1 ¼” below the top of the fork tube. When the fork cap is installed, the 2” section inside the fork tube will compress the spring ¾”. Voila, correct pre-load!! Just make sure you use the right numbers for you, not the ones in this example. Also, back the adjuster all the way back out before re-installing the fork cap, to make it easier to get the threads started. Re-set the adjuster to the middle position after everything is bolted back up.



Re sentence " make sure you you use the right numbers."

Is the 11/4" measurement what I use or is there some other measurment I'm unaware of, and if so where do i find it?

Thanks.

[LAB3]

What I'm reading is an example and your particular situation will vary depending on your particular bike and the measurements that you get. Take a break, quit thinking about it and try again when your head is clear. It seems pretty straight forward.

[gsrick]

Send a PM to RichDesmond, he's a member and it's his company.

[johnod]

What I'm reading is an example and your particular situation will vary depending on your particular bike and the measurements that you get. Take a break, quit thinking about it and try again when your head is clear. It seems pretty straight forward.

So where did the 1 1/4" measurement come form?

[johnod]

Send a PM to RichDesmond, he's a member and it's his company.

I sent a email to the company, hope to hear back.

[gsrick]

I sent a email to the company, hope to hear back.

A PM here may be quicker.

[RichDesmond]

I sent a email to the company, hope to hear back.

Email answered.

[salty_monk]

You'll find that your "stack" should be roughly the same height as stock.

I.e. Old Spring(s) + Stock Spacer = New Spring + New ABS PIPE spacer

[RichDesmond]

You'll find that your "stack" should be roughly the same height as stock.

I.e. Old Spring(s) + Stock Spacer = New Spring + New ABS PIPE spacer

Typically the new stack height is a little less than stock. Most older bikes had really soft springs, and more preload than you need with better springs.
The other issue is that unless you're the original owner you don't know what a PO might have done, so it's best to just follow the instruction rather than base anything on the existing setup.

[johnod]

Email answered.

Thanks Rich I replied to email.

[Steve]

In the bikes I have changed the fork springs, I go to one thing for a constant starting point. With the fork tube held vertical, install the spring. Measure from the top of the spring (a washer on top of it might help) to the top of the fork, use that as your spacer length. When you install the cap, it will push the spring a bit, giving it some "preload". Note that different bikes will have caps with different depths, so the "top of the fork tube" measurement might not be accurate FOR YOUR BIKE.

The way to determine whether it is correct will be to compare the distance from the top of the dust cap on the lower tube to the bottom of the triple clamp (forks installed, of course) with the bike on the centerstand with the distance between the same two points when the bike is off the stand and you have your weight on it. That difference should be about 15-20% of total travel. Most of our bikes have close to 6" of travel, so you are looking for about 1" of sag. Adjust your spacer length to get that 1".

If you get 2" of sag, you need spacers that are 1" longer. If you get less than 1" of sag, cut the spacers about an inch, measure again. Repeat until you get about 1" of sag.

When you get the sag set correctly, add the correct amount of fork fluid (usually 10w oil works well on the street), put the springs and spacers back in, put the caps on. Finish re-assembly, test everything and go for a ride.

.

[azr]

This site never stops to amaze me. A member posted an issue at 3:29, at 4:20 the owner of the company replied to him both by email and to his actual thread......if this doesn't remind me to do my yearly site donation I don't know what will.......

[johnod]

This site never stops to amaze me. A member posted an issue at 3:29, at 4:20 the owner of the company replied to him both by email and to his actual thread......if this doesn't remind me to do my yearly site donation I don't know what will.......

Yep I agree, and thanks everyone for all the answers, especially Rich.