top fork tube caps

[kwikonit]

Looking to replace my air valve type caps for standard bolt type, anyone now what year/model are compatible? Cognito moto make a nice aluminum pair for a '79 gl1000 Goldwing. Any leads much appreciated
Thanks
Shane

[Steve]

We could give you many suggestions, but it would be VERY helpful if you could narrow it down a bit by telling us what bike is involved.

And, ... what's wrong with your present caps?

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[kwikonit]

78’ GS1000, nothing is wrong with them, just ugly. I have racetech inside so not using the air function.

[bobtail84]

I also have racetech internals but I still use the air as it stops the oil foaming and with the racetech you will create a bit of foaming..

[kwikonit]

When I spoke to Racetech i specifically asked about this as i want to do away with air and these caps. They said there shouldn’t be any oil foaming because everthing is immersed in oil, more volume then OEM level. Are you useing proper viscosity and amount?

[Steve]

78’ GS1000, nothing is wrong with them, just ugly. I have racetech inside so not using the air function.

We have three GSes here. Two with Progressives, one with Sonic, none of them are using additional air.

All three of them look pretty good, but none of them is a show bike.

All three have caps like this, we don't think of them as "ugly".



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[kwikonit]

Yep I could just bolt off the air valve like in your photo, totally servicable.... i have triples coming from Old School Speed and would be a shame to use these old OEM caps... I think most would agree that these would finish off a custom front end nicely.

[Gorminrider]

I'd be a little worried about aluminum ones. The thread is awful fine and it'd be too easy to get that first twist awry and b*gger them. On the other hand, cross-threading the originals would b*gger the tubes too...But I agree..I have those airvalve ones on the 650 - they are ugly and I find em a little inconvenient to push down and get started too versus the un-valved ones ...I can't use a big long socket to push and turn in the awkward spot like I can with the normal type

[Steve]

Yep I could just bolt off the air valve like in your photo, totally servicable.

That's not a bolt. That is the stock chrome cover that screws on over the Schrader valve.

I'd be a little worried about aluminum ones. The thread is awful fine and it'd be too easy to get that first twist awry and b*gger them.

Are you worried at all about stock ones? All of the stock caps I have seen were aluminum.

On the other hand, cross-threading the originals would b*gger the tubes too.

Because the caps are aluminum and the tubes are steel, I would think it would be the caps that got buggered.

I find em a little inconvenient to push down and get started too versus the un-valved ones ...I can't use a big long socket to push and turn in the awkward spot like I can with the normal type

There is a trick to installing the caps that makes it MUCH easier.

Before installing any preload spacers, thread the caps into the tubes a couple of turns. While trying to pull the caps straight off the end of the tube, unscrew them, watching for the exact point of disengagement. If the valve is angled (like the one in my picture), I use that as my reference point and note where the tube is when the cap comes off. Use a Sharpie marker on the tube to show that point. Finish assembly with any preload spacers, washers, etc., then get the cap ready. Since you KNOW where it will engage, you only need to back up about 1/8 turn, press it down a bit, then give it 1/4 turn.

This can be done with the fork tube held in a vise, clamped in the triples, or simply held by a helper, but it's MUCH easier and quicker.

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[kwikonit]

Yep the oem caps are aluminum, so back on topic, if anyone knows of a suzuki or any other make that has a compatible cap that doesnt use air.... much appreciated

[Gorminrider]

aluminum..

.the 650 aircaps are but the ones on my 400s are not. Its on my list to find similar that suit the 650's tube diameters...

Use a Sharpie marker on the tube to show that point

yes that's fine if it doesn't smear on the oily bits or if I can see the mark on the thin tops of the tube -(hard to see if doing this tubes on the bike) while holding down.... but I do as well turning the cap backwards til I feel the threads "set" (an old trick used for any bolt or even screws).... But the real pain I have with these air-caps, while holding down against the springs with,say, a wood lever, to hold em down easily while getting them started, is that the high-point of the casting is not "on-center"...

[limeex2]

4v GS1100 will fit. Have a rubber cap over a screw fixture for adjusting spring preload.

[kwikonit]

4v GS1100 will fit. Have a rubber cap over a screw fixture for adjusting spring preload.

Thank you, ill look into these
cheers

[kwikonit]

https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d40458f8700230d8b4ed57/front-fork-model-d

Found these on Partsfish but are not available for some reason. looks a little more of what im trying to find

[Gorminrider]

According to afile I saved when I was looking for a difficult stanchion, These all have 37 mm stanchions. all Showa forks I expect, if it's a lead for you.
Suzuki XN-85 D "Turbo" (83)
Suzuki GS-500 EK/EL/EM/EN/EP/ER/ES/ET (89-96)
Suzuki GS-500 EV/EW/EX/EY (97-00)
Suzuki GS-550 LD/LF (83, 85)
Suzuki GS-550 ED/ESD/ES3/ ESE/ EF/ESF/ESG (83-86)
Suzuki GS-650 MD "Katana" (83)
Suzuki GS-700 EF/ESF (85)
Suzuki VS-700 GLFG/GLEFG/ GLFH/GLEFH "Intruder" (85-87)
Suzuki VS-700 GLPG/GLEPG/ GLPH/GLEPH "Intruder" (85-87)
Suzuki GS-750 ED/ESD (83)
Suzuki GS-750 LN (79)
Suzuki GS-750 SD "Katana" (83)
Suzuki GS-850 GN/GT/GX/GZ (79-82)
Suzuki GS-850 GD (83)
Suzuki GS-1000 C/EC/N/EN/ET (78-80)
Suzuki GS-1000GT/GLT/GX/GLX (80-81)
Suzuki GS-1100 ET/EX/EZ (80-82)
Suzuki GS-1100 ED/ESD (83)
Suzuki GS-1100 GZ/GLZ (82)
Suzuki GS-1100 LT (80)
Suzuki GS-1150 ES3/ESE/EF/ESF/EF2/EG/ESG (83-86)

plenty of other Japanese bikes with 37mm stanchions that are likely very similar in construction...