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Are OEM brake lines really that bad??

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    #16
    There's actually a typo in the service manual. It should say replace the lines every two weeks.
    1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

    2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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      #17
      Be careful buying premade lines if you are using handlebars that are different from stock.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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        #18
        Thanks again, Ed. Luckily this beast is bog stock from end to end. I am concerned however about the line angle at the M/C - a bit steep. It was here that I discovered a split in the rubber line while replacing the front brake light switch. Is this a typical weak spot & should I compensate by adding an inch or two to this line? Thinking it might afford me better placement of the M/C & lever. Your thoughts??
        '78 GS750E (currently undergoing TLC).

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          #19
          Like I said, I prefer Earl's. You can build them to whatever length, hose end angle, etc., you could possibly want. A lot of the time premade lines have long hose ends, which wind up hitting on something or forcing the hose to bend quickly at the end of the hose end to clear something. With Earl's lines that's not the case. Regarding adding extra length, I personally wouldn't unless you have no other option.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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            #20
            You raise a good point: If I recall correctly, the HEL ends are on the long side whereas the stock lines crimp right after the banjo fittings...hmmmmm. I really better confirm all that before I commit. Thanks again for opening my eyes
            '78 GS750E (currently undergoing TLC).

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              #21
              Originally posted by isleoman
              I have SS on the 1100ez and oem rubber on my two 18 y.o. FZ1s. I can lift the rear wheel with a passenger with either set up.

              My personal "feel" preference is rubber for panic stops. More forgiving before lock up. I probably had two or three incidents this season where SS may have been too much. Easy to say don't grab too hard in panic, little harder to not do.
              If I were replacing I'd go SS just because they are cheaper.

              Everyone else's results are probably different.
              I could feel a CONSIDERABLE difference when I rebuilt my master cylinder and calipers...I was fortunate to be in SoCal and went to a local shop in the Inland Empire and had them replicate the old line.

              The brakes on these old GS' aren't like the newer bikes (2000's) where grabbing a handful of brake spells trouble.

              I would go with braided lines on vintage bikes...I did a cut out of the rubber and see how aging affects the rubber.

              Just my two cents.

              Ed
              GS750TZ V&H/4-1, Progressive Shocks, Rebuilt MC/braided line, Tarozzi Stabilizer[Seq#2312]
              GS750TZ Parts Bike [Seq#6036]
              GSX-R750Y (Sold)

              my opinion shouldn't be taken as gospel or in any way that would lead you to believe otherwise (30Sep2021)

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                #22
                I haven't noticed much difference between new PTFE and my original old rubber ones where they are in good shape.

                One advantage of the old rubber ones is that they take sharper bends. They seem more flexible than ptfe or whatever plastic they are using for the actual brakeline under the SS sheath so if you have changed your handlebars or whatever, it'd be good to have an extra inch or two in newer lines....maybe test for bends with a piece of stiff steel cable or similar ptfe hose to duplicate the flexibility...?

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by isleoman
                  I have SS on the 1100ez and oem rubber on my two 18 y.o. FZ1s.
                  20 year difference. Does the FZ manual say they need to be replaced every two years? I'm guessing not.
                  1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                  2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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                    #24
                    Old rubber lines gather scaly grunge inside which will contaminate your (clean) brake fluid. Unless the fluid is nice and clean when you get the bike I'd change the lines to ward off against that.



                    Technical Info posts that are deemed to be important or popular will be placed here for easier access. If you feel a post should be moved from the Technical Info forum to here then PM the Administrator with your request.
                    Ed

                    To measure is to know.

                    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                      #25
                      The age old brake line test: Wrap your hand around your brake line so you're holding it lightly in the palm of your hand. Pump up the brakes. Anything you feel is hydraulic pressure that's NOT going to the caliper.
                      Rubber lines need to be replaced regularly, steel lines don't.

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