Anyway, the brakes always worked fine aside from being a bit spongy. Now, after having the new line, new master cylinder and some fresh fluid installed, I noticed that the pads are dragging pretty badly. Tough to turn the wheel or push the bike around. I have not looked at the Pistons yet or anything but... Wondering if anyone has any advice on where to start? Should I dismount everything and pull the caliper apart? I've never cleaned it up since owning the bike but like I said, it always worked fine before swapping the master cylinder and lines... Why would that mess it up?
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Front brake drag after new master cylinder and lines
So I finally decided to put some stainless brake lines on my bike, it was long overdue and so was the fluid change. Along with that, I wanted to replace the master cylinder because the original wasn't working well with my updated handlebars (replaced the L buckhorn bars with straight ones, Daytona I believe? It was a while ago.)
Anyway, the brakes always worked fine aside from being a bit spongy. Now, after having the new line, new master cylinder and some fresh fluid installed, I noticed that the pads are dragging pretty badly. Tough to turn the wheel or push the bike around. I have not looked at the Pistons yet or anything but... Wondering if anyone has any advice on where to start? Should I dismount everything and pull the caliper apart? I've never cleaned it up since owning the bike but like I said, it always worked fine before swapping the master cylinder and lines... Why would that mess it up?Tags: None
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Originally posted by exzachtly1 View PostSo I finally decided to put some stainless brake lines on my bike, it was long overdue and so was the fluid change. Along with that, I wanted to replace the master cylinder because the original wasn't working well with my updated handlebars (replaced the L buckhorn bars with straight ones, Daytona I believe? It was a while ago.)
Anyway, the brakes always worked fine aside from being a bit spongy. Now, after having the new line, new master cylinder and some fresh fluid installed, I noticed that the pads are dragging pretty badly. Tough to turn the wheel or push the bike around. I have not looked at the Pistons yet or anything but... Wondering if anyone has any advice on where to start? Should I dismount everything and pull the caliper apart? I've never cleaned it up since owning the bike but like I said, it always worked fine before swapping the master cylinder and lines... Why would that mess it up?:cool:GSRick
No God, no peace. Know God, know peace.
Eric Bang RIP 9/5/2018
Have some bikes ready for us when we meet up.
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exzachtly1
Thanks for the suggestions, I'll give that a shot. The MC I bought is this one https://www.amazon.com/Cylinder-Rese.../dp/B01B1BNQTS technically it says it's for ATVs but read some reviews of people using it on their 1980s CB650s. It does not specify piston size on the product page though? It really did seem like a 1:1 replacement compared to the original part. Only difference was how the brake wire connects.
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Yeah, I looked at it and I'm not sure how it compares to stock, but I can almost guarantee it's made in China and you might want to check those tiny holes in the bottom of the master. Especially the the one furthest away from the lever. It could be blocked by a shaving from the machining process or not even all the way through.:cool:GSRick
No God, no peace. Know God, know peace.
Eric Bang RIP 9/5/2018
Have some bikes ready for us when we meet up.
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exzachtly1
Will give it a look tomorrow I think. I figured it was worth a shot for the price, my old MC was kinda shot and never fit right with the new handlebars. No doubt made in China and I'm usually cautious about this stuff but, it did have good reviews and actually seems pretty high quality to me. Worst case is I need to hunt a new one up or reuse the old one for now.
Regardless, it's been a good learning experience to do this project. I feel better about working on brakes now... Assuming I do get it all sorted out
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Originally posted by exzachtly1 View PostWill give it a look tomorrow I think. I figured it was worth a shot for the price, my old MC was kinda shot and never fit right with the new handlebars. No doubt made in China and I'm usually cautious about this stuff but, it did have good reviews and actually seems pretty high quality to me. Worst case is I need to hunt a new one up or reuse the old one for now.
Regardless, it's been a good learning experience to do this project. I feel better about working on brakes now... Assuming I do get it all sorted out 🤣:cool:GSRick
No God, no peace. Know God, know peace.
Eric Bang RIP 9/5/2018
Have some bikes ready for us when we meet up.
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exzachtly1
Well after doing a bunch of research and coming up with a plan to clean the MC return, i went outside to check things out. Surprise - got both wheels off the ground to check and it's actually the rear that's dragging
Must be a coincidence because I have not touched anything on the rear brakes... and they were working fine last season as far as I could tell. I do plan on redoing the lines on the rear anyway so I guess I'll be inspecting the caliper piston as well...
This bike must be trying to tell me something because every time I fix one thing, something else pops up.
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It's telling you that it's pushing 40 years old and that brake line that should have been replaced in 1986 is overdue.1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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exzachtly1
Originally posted by Big T View PostIt's telling you that it's pushing 40 years old and that brake line that should have been replaced in 1986 is overdue.
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exzachtly1
Yeah took the rear caliper apart today because was super seized up on one side. Brake lever was not pushing the piston out at all. Once I got it all apart, there was a ton of gunk and grunge in there under the seal... I'm really glad I finally did this. Currently de-rusting all the bolts before I put it back together but I'm hoping I cleaned em up enough to get things moving again. The pistons actually didn't look bad, and the seals were in good shape. I was able to push the pistons back in with my fingers so I guess that's a good sign . I used these steps http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/storag...r_overhaul.pdf. Only thing I wasn't sure about is that I was hesitant to use sandpaper inside the bore, because I didn't want to mess up the rubber ring that's in there. There was a bit of corrosion but hopefully I got it good enough, mostly just went at everything with a green scotch-brite pad and some picks around the lip where the seal sits.
So new stainless lines front and back, new master cylinder, back caliper has been cleaned up... kinda thinking I want to do the same to the front caliper now.
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Originally posted by exzachtly1 View PostYeah took the rear caliper apart today because was super seized up on one side. Brake lever was not pushing the piston out at all. Once I got it all apart, there was a ton of gunk and grunge in there under the seal... I'm really glad I finally did this. Currently de-rusting all the bolts before I put it back together but I'm hoping I cleaned em up enough to get things moving again. The pistons actually didn't look bad, and the seals were in good shape. I was able to push the pistons back in with my fingers so I guess that's a good sign . I used these steps http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/storag...r_overhaul.pdf. Only thing I wasn't sure about is that I was hesitant to use sandpaper inside the bore, because I didn't want to mess up the rubber ring that's in there. There was a bit of corrosion but hopefully I got it good enough, mostly just went at everything with a green scotch-brite pad and some picks around the lip where the seal sits.
So new stainless lines front and back, new master cylinder, back caliper has been cleaned up... kinda thinking I want to do the same to the front caliper now.sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
2015 CAN AM RTS
Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.
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You must install new caliper seals and use only oem parts. After market brake parts are junk. There will be corrosion behind the seals that must be removed. Scothbrite works like sandpaper but more easily conforms to a round bore. I use a dremmel tool to remove the corrosion in the seal groove, in which case I use a brass bit or be very gentle with a stainless steel bit.Current Rides: 82 GS1100E, 00 Triumph 955 Speed Triple:twistedevil:, 03 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 01 Honda GL1800, '15 Kawasaki 1000 Versys
Past Rides: 72 Honda SL-125, Kawasaki KE-175, 77 GS750 with total yosh stage 1 kit, 79 GS1000s, 80 GS1000S, 82 GS750e,82 GS1000S, 84 VF500f, 86 FZR600, 95 Triumph Sprint 900,96 Triumph Sprint, 97 Triumph Sprint, 01 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 07 Triumph Tiger 1050, 01 Yam YFZ250F
Work in progress: 78 GS1000, unknown year GS1100ES
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