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Fork seal replacement
1981 1100e fork seal replacement and Sonic spring install next on the list for me. Very first question of probably a few if I may. Oil drained and top cap loose but not removed. This bottom clicker must come off to expose a bottom bolt does it not? How should I go about that task without damaging it...does it pop off? I for sure dont want to force it without knowing for sure!-1981 Suzuki GS1100E
-1975 Honda CB400 Super Sport
-1981 Vespa P200E
-1990 Ktm 540 dxc
-1982 Ktm 495
-1981 Ktm 495
-1989 Atk 406
-1987 Cr 500R
-1982 Yz 125Tags: None
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Originally posted by Cwoods View Post1981 1100e fork seal replacement and Sonic spring install next on the list for me. Very first question of probably a few if I may. Oil drained and top cap loose but not removed. This bottom clicker must come off to expose a bottom bolt does it not? How should I go about that task without damaging it...does it pop off? I for sure dont want to force it without knowing for sure!-1981 Suzuki GS1100E
-1975 Honda CB400 Super Sport
-1981 Vespa P200E
-1990 Ktm 540 dxc
-1982 Ktm 495
-1981 Ktm 495
-1989 Atk 406
-1987 Cr 500R
-1982 Yz 125
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Originally posted by Cwoods View PostAs a second part to that question can I change out the seal without separating the fork bottom from the tube to save some hassle?1980 Yamaha XS1100G (Current bike)
1982 GS450txz (former bike)
LONG list of previous bikes not listed here.
I identify as a man but according to the label on a box of Stauffers Baked Lasagne I'm actually a family of four
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^^^LAB3's is the best advice you'll get. Ruin your forks and you'll be very sad. Do what the shop manual says..carefully. if you get introuble reread the manual. They can be a little too concise and re-reading or online questions can help
If you MUST attack them the wrong way, at least work at the tops where the stanchions are seldom through the seals AND try to tuck in some thin plastic through the seals (from margarine tubs or the like) to protect the chrome as you gouge ......
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I would rather disassemble the forks that way I can inspect and clean everything thoroughly. I just cant seem to find anything on the net or in the Clymers manual that I have on how to do so on these adjustable bottoms I have with the clicker adjustment knob on the bottom of the fork leg. Surely someone has done this style? There has to be a way to remove this knob to get at a bolt head of some type.-1981 Suzuki GS1100E
-1975 Honda CB400 Super Sport
-1981 Vespa P200E
-1990 Ktm 540 dxc
-1982 Ktm 495
-1981 Ktm 495
-1989 Atk 406
-1987 Cr 500R
-1982 Yz 125
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ah, i see Droberts has the info you need-still:
found this on CMNSL could be the clue you need. I see the knob anyways. Otherwise get a different shop manual than clymers here at BikeCliff's Website.
I didn't see the knob but there are addnedums per model...you probably want the 80-83 GS1100-LT-LX etc...one. Yours would be the "EX" I suppose
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Originally posted by D Robertshttps://racetech.com/page/title/DRod%206-2%20KYB%2037mm I think you will find exactly the information you are looking for.
PS.... Do not be concerned re my low LoL post count.....Purged it a few times since October 2006-1981 Suzuki GS1100E
-1975 Honda CB400 Super Sport
-1981 Vespa P200E
-1990 Ktm 540 dxc
-1982 Ktm 495
-1981 Ktm 495
-1989 Atk 406
-1987 Cr 500R
-1982 Yz 125
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One method is to drain the oil, then use an air nozzle applied to the air fitting at the top of the fork. Mine took about 5 minutes at 100PSI to pop out. There was a HUGE mess because I did not drain the oil, hence the warning.sigpic
09 Kaw C14 Rocket powered Barcalounger
1983 GS1100e
82\83 1100e Frankenbike
1980 GS1260
Previous 65 Suzuki 80 Scrambler, 76 KZ900, 02 GSF1200S, 81 GS1100e, 80 GS850G
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Originally posted by bobgroger View PostOne method is to drain the oil, then use an air nozzle applied to the air fitting at the top of the fork. Mine took about 5 minutes at 100PSI to pop out. There was a HUGE mess because I did not drain the oil, hence the warning.Attached Files-1981 Suzuki GS1100E
-1975 Honda CB400 Super Sport
-1981 Vespa P200E
-1990 Ktm 540 dxc
-1982 Ktm 495
-1981 Ktm 495
-1989 Atk 406
-1987 Cr 500R
-1982 Yz 125
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Mentioned the Virago earlier, another method I read on the Venture forum but didn't try was leaving the legs sealed with air in them and using a ratchet strap to compress the unit and blow the seal that way.1980 Yamaha XS1100G (Current bike)
1982 GS450txz (former bike)
LONG list of previous bikes not listed here.
I identify as a man but according to the label on a box of Stauffers Baked Lasagne I'm actually a family of four
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i usually take the fork apart, and clean the lower leg of oil.
Use a small gas burner to heat up the oil seal until the inside
of the rubber starts turning red and it starts smoking.
When it's *that* hot, if it does not fall out when you hold the
leg upside down, the tiniest of screwdrivers will pop it out.
What i like about this method is no force is used,
no bent screwdrivers or damaged fork legs.
Even if that damage will be hidden by the dust covers.
Just takes a few minutes more than brute force.Rijk
Top 10 Newbie Mistakes thread
CV Carb rebuild tutorial
VM Carb rebuild tutorial
Bikecliff's website
The Stator Papers
"The thing about freedom - it's never free"
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Originally posted by Rijko View Posti usually take the fork apart, and clean the lower leg of oil.
Use a small gas burner to heat up the oil seal until the inside
of the rubber starts turning red and it starts smoking.
When it's *that* hot, if it does not fall out when you hold the
leg upside down, the tiniest of screwdrivers will pop it out.
What i like about this method is no force is used,
no bent screwdrivers or damaged fork legs.
Even if that damage will be hidden by the dust covers.
Just takes a few minutes more than brute force.
Anyhow thanks so much for the info, ideas and opinions. I value all of them on this new to me type of restore, little different than simple 2 stroke big bore dirtbikes I am obsessed with.
I am on to the next step, of which I am not sure yet what that should be. Mabey tomorrow I tackle the rebuilding of the brake system as I have the kits, pads and new SS brake lines to do it. Then perhaps I will get into replacing the engine side covers I have polished, pulling the oil pan to clean the strainer, installing the APE clutch hub nut, cables, dipped and cleaned carbs with new orings etc etc etc. I should be able to roll into each thing as I have everything bought for this project minus any surprises.
I will have questions but also I will use the search function as I do nightly pouring over all the info here....coming along a little at a time it is. GREAT FUN!Attached Files-1981 Suzuki GS1100E
-1975 Honda CB400 Super Sport
-1981 Vespa P200E
-1990 Ktm 540 dxc
-1982 Ktm 495
-1981 Ktm 495
-1989 Atk 406
-1987 Cr 500R
-1982 Yz 125
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