Earl's Brake Lines Help needed

[Guest]

I am getting ready to buy Earl's Brake Line by the foot and need some help. My bike is a 1980 GS750E.

Here is what I need help with.

1. What size brake line should I get?
2. I have heard about shrink wrap over braided lines, would you recommend it and where is the best place to get it?
3. If you have any helpful links or information that would be great too.

Thank you in advance,
2Stroke

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I think Nessism is the one that advocates building your own lines from Earls lines and fittings. Look him up or search for his write ups. Tip on using the sites search function. Use advanced search. Enter your key words and search titles only.

[2stroke]

Thanks Rich,

I actually am taking the advice of Nessism. I have read most of his threads on the subject and am ready to go head and do it. I just wanted to make sure I am ordering the right parts.

Thank you,
2Stroke

[93Bandit]

I don't know for certain that all models use the same brake lines, but if I were a betting man, I'd bet at least the larger bikes do.

In this thread https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ke-Line-Thread
Ed says "to make brake lines we need Speed-Seal -3 hose and 3/8 / 10mm hose ends.


Shrink wrap can be purchased pretty much anywhere local that sells electrical products, such as hardware stores, auto parts stores, Harbor Freight etc. I like to use the marine shrink wrap from Harbor Freight when doing electrical work. The marine shrink wrap has a glue/sealant inside that melts and makes a stronger water tight seal than regular shrink wrap. It's not necessary for the brake lines, regular shrink wrap would be sufficient. However, i recommended you buy the marine shrink wrap assortment box, its cheap and you will have plenty left for future projects.

Also, note that the shrink wrap is not essential for the procedure, it just makes the brake lines look more neat if you cut too much of the vinyl coating off the lines.

[2stroke]

Thank you for the all the information. I put the new brake lines together and got them installed. I also rebuild the caplipers. However brakes are still mushy and do not bleed correctly on one side. So the next step will be to replace the one caliper and get a new master cylinder.

Thanks again for the help.

2Stroke

[Nessism]

Thank you for the all the information. I put the new brake lines together and got them installed. I also rebuild the caplipers. However brakes are still mushy and do not bleed correctly on one side. So the next step will be to replace the one caliper and get a new master cylinder.

Thanks again for the help.

2Stroke

When mushy lever feel is experienced that usually means the caliper pistons are not moving out of the caliper bore properly close to the disc. If you used K&L caliper seals, which are not properly sized and cause extra drag on the caliper pistons, this is somewhat par for the course. Replace the seals with OEM parts and all will be well. Replacing the caliper is a waste of time. Oh, and make sure the caliper sliding pins are properly greased with heavy moly black caliper grease. Regarding the master cylinder, it's unlikely to be the cause of this issue unless someone replaced the original 5/8" bore master with a 14mm bore version which is intended for single discs, not dual.

Lastly, one thing that can help the caliper pistons move out closer to the discs is to pump up the lever and tie it back against the handlebar grip. Leave it that way for several hours and then see if the piston moved out. If it did the lever feel will firm up noticeably.