My rear brake is dragging

[Noreg]

OK the brake hoses should be replaced... have you bled the fluid since you've had the bike? It may not be at all fluid now....

I have not. I was planning to, but then I watched a youtube video of someone bleeding the brakes, they poured all the brake fluid onto the tyre. I don't want to ruin my tyres. But I am sure there is a more sensible way.

Should I just go for steel lines? Do they come in like a kit? Or do I have to bend them myself?

The rear brakes works excellently, I find it a lot easier to lock up the rear wheel than the front (both intentionally and incidentally).

I was trying to do a stoppie today, but I can't get it to lift the rear tyre (but I can hear the front tyre locking up). Might just be me being scared though. But I found it much easier on the Yamahas, even with the ABS...

The brake disc also seems unevenly worn, the front ones are perfectly smooth, but the rear wone has a groove where it drags.

Like when I have it apart I feel I should replace everything that is of reasonable cost. Is it a difficult thing to do?

[Rijko]

Its like making a scraping noise and its warm even after not using it.

Any suggestions?

Scraping noise could mean the brake pads are worn to metal.
Have you checked the brake pads ?

[Cipher]

Scraping noise could mean the brake pads are worn to metal.
Have you checked the brake pads ?

disc does look gouged.

[allojohn]

I have not. I was planning to, but then I watched a youtube video of someone bleeding the brakes, they poured all the brake fluid onto the tyre. I don't want to ruin my tyres. But I am sure there is a more sensible way.

Should I just go for steel lines? Do they come in like a kit? Or do I have to bend them myself?

Yeah, watch some better YouTube video's, LOL. It's a really simple process and should be performed at a minimum every 5 years. The brake hoses come in braided stainless steel these days, there should be suppliers in Norway, just measure the length of your lines...

[dorkburger]

In addition.....
I had the pushrod and piston get stuck in the master cylinder bore due to corrosion. I was able to get by with a thorough cleanup, no new parts were neeed.

[Noreg]

I figured Id start by adjusting the bolt that stops the brake lever from going back. But I broke off the head...

[Burque73]

https://imgur.com/a/F3xvqLV Burque73 that sounds exactly like my issues. There is a picture there. No idea if original...

That pic huge. A smaller image is easier to see.

I figured Id start by adjusting the bolt that stops the brake lever from going back. But I broke off the head...

Dang, sorry to hear that. With all the moisture and road salt over there, PB Blaster or a good penetrating oil applied well in advance will help prevent this. Next time try this, after the PB (or whatever you use) has had ample time to soak in, try slowly working the bolt back and forth even to get the slightest movement, then another shot of oil and wait a bit longer before really cranking on it.

[Noreg]

Can I just buy Snell Custom Made Brake Lines? They are braided stainless steel. And they make them to order, so I won't have to do anything complicated (beyond attaching them).

I think the rear brake is getting worse. I figured if I am taking the brake pads out, I might as well replace them. What is best? Goldfren, SBS Cermaic or Brembo Carbon-Ceramic? Goldfren is a lot cheaper (149, vs 399 and 420 NOK).

Is there any way to get a new front brake resorvair for a reasonable price? the white plastic looks a bit worn, and I don't like the lid or the screws either (I saw one site sold the whole box for 200usd but thats a bit steep).

If I have to take off the calipers anyways to clean them, I figure I should repaint them. Can I get a good rattlecanjob or should I have someone professional to paint them? There is a car repair place down the street from work (does like damage stuff, they painted my merc when some dude scratched it in a parking lot).

I also need a website that sells ALL the suzuki parts. In norway we have to pay a fee to be granted the priviledge of paying VAT on imports, so making one large order is cheaper than many small ones. I figured I might as well buy all the brake stuff, the oil filter cover bolts and stuff, and the cam chain tensioner stuff. Also an advantadge if they accept Amex and won't bankrupt me on shipping.

Is my brake fluid supposed to be yellow? Im used to it being red.

[chuck hahn]

i would completely disassemble the caliper and master cylinder and clean them. Pay special attention to the grooves the piston seals seat in. Get all the white chalky scale out of them. When you put the seals back in feel them from down in the piston well. Yoy want to feel a very slight lip. Seals are tappered so when inserting pistons they dont jam up a seal.

Second thing is to take off the nipple the reservoir line attatches to on the side of the master cylinder. Theres a tiny return port hole that must be clear.

[Noreg]

i would completely disassemble the caliper and master cylinder and clean them. Pay special attention to the grooves the piston seals seat in. Get all the white chalky scale out of them. When you put the seals back in feel them from down in the piston well. Yoy want to feel a very slight lip. Seals are tappered so when inserting pistons they dont jam up a seal.

Second thing is to take off the nipple the reservoir line attatches to on the side of the master cylinder. Theres a tiny return port hole that must be clear.

But what parts would you replace? Brake lines, pads, and seals in the caliper?

[chuck hahn]

I would replace the seals, the little seal between the 2 halves, brake lines if old, and any piston with ANY pitting on the sides.

[Noreg]

I would replace the seals, the little seal between the 2 halves, brake lines if old, and any piston with ANY pitting on the sides.

How many pistons in the back caliper? Id rather just order too many parts than having to wait two weeks with the bike sitting.

[chuck hahn]

2....this is the rebuild kit i just got for the 1000 im rebuilding.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-Rear-Caliper-Piston-Seals-Rebuild-Kit-77-83-GS-550-1100-See-Notes-P135/361905678977?hash=item5443426a81:g:oVUAAOSw3v5YpQhb:sc:USPSFirstClass!73071!US!-1

[Grimly]

If you want to fit a replacement front master cylinder, I thoroughly recommend the one from a Honda NT650V / Deauville - 5/8" bore and a perfect match for the twin front GS calipers of that era. You get the modern benefit of a span-adjustable lever, much nicer feel and much more modern internals, too.
Be aware of the differences of some Deauville m/cs, they don't all have the mirror perch on them. If I recall correctly, the post-2000 ones don't have it.

[Noreg]

If you want to fit a replacement front master cylinder, I thoroughly recommend the one from a Honda NT650V / Deauville - 5/8" bore and a perfect match for the twin front GS calipers of that era. You get the modern benefit of a span-adjustable lever, much nicer feel and much more modern internals, too.
Be aware of the differences of some Deauville m/cs, they don't all have the mirror perch on them. If I recall correctly, the post-2000 ones don't have it.

I will keep that in mind. Are they expensive?

Right now my first priority is making the rear not drag. But if I need new lines, fluid nad stuff I might as well swap out whatever isn't optimal.