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Noreg,
I'm just a GS owner that has done many of the things you're getting into and am by no means a mechanic, unlike others who have chimed in here, so take this advice for what it's worth.
Another member (Steve) answered several of my questions using this format and I found it most helpful so I'll try it here. My comments are in red.
Can I just buy Snell Custom Made Brake Lines? They are braided stainless steel. And they make them to order, so I won't have to do anything complicated (beyond attaching them).
Yes, but It may be a good idea to call the supplier and verify that you're getting the right set. Also, see if the set includes banjo bolts and crush washers. I reused my old banjo bolts and just used new crush washers. My set came in slightly different sizes than stock so I laid the old set next to the new set and matched up the lengths as close as possible. They were rather curled up from shipping so heat from a hair dryer helped soften them up to straighten out. Also, if you need the new lines to bend slightly (not so sharp they kink) the hair dryer really helps there too. The new lines are much smaller in diameter than the fat rubber ones and may not be held tightly in place. You'll need some short pieces of rubber hose or something to use as bushings where the lines are held to the frame.
I think the rear brake is getting worse. I figured if I am taking the brake pads out, I might as well replace them. What is best? Goldfren, SBS Cermaic or Brembo Carbon-Ceramic? Goldfren is a lot cheaper (149, vs 399 and 420 NOK).
Maybe someone else can comment on those brands. I've had good luck with EBC Semi-Sintered brake pads. If you're unfamiliar with the differences, this is informative. Just FYI, when your system is all reassembled initially, it won't stop on a dime. You'll need to make several hard stops to get the new pads seated on the rotors and it will get progressivly better. Oh, you previously asked about rotors. They are not hard to replace if you choose to, and they can be found on Ebay for pretty cheap. There are also companys that resurface them, like Tru Disk.
If I have to take off the calipers anyways to clean them, I figure I should repaint them. Can I get a good rattlecanjob or should I have someone professional to paint them? There is a car repair place down the street from work (does like damage stuff, they painted my merc when some dude scratched it in a parking lot).
Brake fluid will make paint bubble up. It is like paint stripper so if you paint them be sure to use something super durable, not the cheapest spray paint on the shelf. After disassembling them, taking them to the auto shop may be a good idea, especially if they can powder coat them for you. They can be powder coated in a household oven, but I've never done that.
I also need a website that sells ALL the suzuki parts. In norway we have to pay a fee to be granted the priviledge of paying VAT on imports, so making one large order is cheaper than many small ones. I figured I might as well buy all the brake stuff, the oil filter cover bolts and stuff, and the cam chain tensioner stuff. Also an advantadge if they accept Amex and won't bankrupt me on shipping.
There are many parts places here in the states, and online, but not sure which would be best to ship over there. Many of us use PartsOutlaw quite often. YMMV
Is my brake fluid supposed to be yellow? Im used to it being red.
Yes. A slight yellow tint is normal, sort of like apple juice. That's a good sign. Mine was more like coffee when I got it. Even if the fluid is fresh and clean, it can still have junk in the system that won't flush out. In my case, I replaced the pads and brake lines. It made a tremendous difference in the stopping power, but the rear brake continued to drag ever so slightly. Much like yours, it got worse. I eventually had to back track and take it all apart later on, so doing this all at once will save you time in the long run.
Bleeding the system is pretty straight forward. It takes a bit of a contortionist to bleed the left front caliper, but it's possible. Also, it takes a while to build up pressure. Just be patient, squeeze the lever, loosen the nipple, tighten the nipple, release the lever.....and repeat. Always making sure there's enough fluid in the MC to avoid pushing air through. There are vacuum bleeders that supposedly simplify the process, but I've always just manually bled them.
Wow, I've rambled long enough. Hope it helps.
I'm just a GS owner that has done many of the things you're getting into and am by no means a mechanic, unlike others who have chimed in here, so take this advice for what it's worth.
Another member (Steve) answered several of my questions using this format and I found it most helpful so I'll try it here. My comments are in red.
Can I just buy Snell Custom Made Brake Lines? They are braided stainless steel. And they make them to order, so I won't have to do anything complicated (beyond attaching them).
Yes, but It may be a good idea to call the supplier and verify that you're getting the right set. Also, see if the set includes banjo bolts and crush washers. I reused my old banjo bolts and just used new crush washers. My set came in slightly different sizes than stock so I laid the old set next to the new set and matched up the lengths as close as possible. They were rather curled up from shipping so heat from a hair dryer helped soften them up to straighten out. Also, if you need the new lines to bend slightly (not so sharp they kink) the hair dryer really helps there too. The new lines are much smaller in diameter than the fat rubber ones and may not be held tightly in place. You'll need some short pieces of rubber hose or something to use as bushings where the lines are held to the frame.
I think the rear brake is getting worse. I figured if I am taking the brake pads out, I might as well replace them. What is best? Goldfren, SBS Cermaic or Brembo Carbon-Ceramic? Goldfren is a lot cheaper (149, vs 399 and 420 NOK).
Maybe someone else can comment on those brands. I've had good luck with EBC Semi-Sintered brake pads. If you're unfamiliar with the differences, this is informative. Just FYI, when your system is all reassembled initially, it won't stop on a dime. You'll need to make several hard stops to get the new pads seated on the rotors and it will get progressivly better. Oh, you previously asked about rotors. They are not hard to replace if you choose to, and they can be found on Ebay for pretty cheap. There are also companys that resurface them, like Tru Disk.
If I have to take off the calipers anyways to clean them, I figure I should repaint them. Can I get a good rattlecanjob or should I have someone professional to paint them? There is a car repair place down the street from work (does like damage stuff, they painted my merc when some dude scratched it in a parking lot).
Brake fluid will make paint bubble up. It is like paint stripper so if you paint them be sure to use something super durable, not the cheapest spray paint on the shelf. After disassembling them, taking them to the auto shop may be a good idea, especially if they can powder coat them for you. They can be powder coated in a household oven, but I've never done that.
I also need a website that sells ALL the suzuki parts. In norway we have to pay a fee to be granted the priviledge of paying VAT on imports, so making one large order is cheaper than many small ones. I figured I might as well buy all the brake stuff, the oil filter cover bolts and stuff, and the cam chain tensioner stuff. Also an advantadge if they accept Amex and won't bankrupt me on shipping.
There are many parts places here in the states, and online, but not sure which would be best to ship over there. Many of us use PartsOutlaw quite often. YMMV
Is my brake fluid supposed to be yellow? Im used to it being red.
Yes. A slight yellow tint is normal, sort of like apple juice. That's a good sign. Mine was more like coffee when I got it. Even if the fluid is fresh and clean, it can still have junk in the system that won't flush out. In my case, I replaced the pads and brake lines. It made a tremendous difference in the stopping power, but the rear brake continued to drag ever so slightly. Much like yours, it got worse. I eventually had to back track and take it all apart later on, so doing this all at once will save you time in the long run.
Bleeding the system is pretty straight forward. It takes a bit of a contortionist to bleed the left front caliper, but it's possible. Also, it takes a while to build up pressure. Just be patient, squeeze the lever, loosen the nipple, tighten the nipple, release the lever.....and repeat. Always making sure there's enough fluid in the MC to avoid pushing air through. There are vacuum bleeders that supposedly simplify the process, but I've always just manually bled them.
Wow, I've rambled long enough. Hope it helps.
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