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tube or tubeless tyres for 1980 Suzuki's?
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Forum GuruPast Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Jun 2018
- 5529
- Mifflinburg, PA / Land of Tar & Chip
Jules, just an opinion based on very little experience, but, if I had wheels not designed for tubeless operation, I wouldn't try to use them without tubes. I know that people do, but I wouldn't. I understand your desire to run tubeless. What are the chances you could fit newer wheels on your bike, ones that were designed to run tubeless?Rich
1982 GS 750TZ
2015 Triumph Tiger 1200
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This interesting discussion has been going on for 40 yrs. It will probably never end because there is neither a wrong answer nor a right answer. The folks who are comfortable running tubeless are satisfied & the folks who are not comfortable with tubeless put tubes in & they are also satisfied. I never remember a poll about this issue but it would be interesting, I'd guess appx. 50% to 50%..... I do think that this time I've seen more info. about the special bits to make a flat surface for the tubeless stem gasket to seat on, back in the day, we never knew of anything like that, we just put the tubeless stems in & forgot about it. Like said earlier a poll would be very interesting & show great info.1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100
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@Rich82'..."they are really sealed? without the POP" Main thing is to check the thin line near the rim. It need be "equidistant" from rim. Or, you will feel a badumpabump riding on it if it wasn't obvious when you spun the tire to balance it...(which it often is- I clamp a stick near a spinning tire to see).
My limited experiences tell me Certain tires on that early Suzuki tubeless rim don't pop. Avon roadrider in my experience on that particular rim. You may have another there.
Much to my own suprise,Pull ties do help sometimes, but maybe more so on less rounded tire profiles... but warming the tire helps on every tire I've mounted since I started warming them.
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Originally posted by ukjules View PostArghhh I'll stick a tube in it as it is meant to be.
Too much hassle p^%$&ng about.
My only concern was due to the massive
rides I do around europe ..... if I didnt
do this I would even think of this as a question
worth asking.
I'll carry tube sealant spray and
rely on the AA (break down people).
avon road rider with tube it is.
But consider too that you can meet the nicest people during breakdowns, and, if everything goes perfectly, who will care to listen to your stories?
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Originally posted by Rich82GS750TZ View PostJules, just an opinion based on very little experience, but, if I had wheels not designed for tubeless operation, I wouldn't try to use them without tubes. I know that people do, but I wouldn't. I understand your desire to run tubeless. What are the chances you could fit newer wheels on your bike, ones that were designed to run tubeless?1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red
2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.
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Still not got the front wheel off....
The decision is made .... as I cant find
the correct bit exactly to flatten
the valve area for a tubeless tyre valve
its gonna be tubed tyres and I'll never think
of this again.
A shame the ebay m8*15mm counterbore which apparently is not good enough as
1mm out. Need m8 * 16mm so good on here.
I'm gonna just go for the tube.
Avon road rider says on tyre it
can be used with tube.
I must say if I ever found such a counterbore
in uk I'd prob use it as making area flat
takes such a small amount of metal off it
makes no difference and you have another option
if your stuck.
if anyone in uk does know where to get this
counterbore thing do post !!!!!UKJULES
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Owner of following bikes:
1980 Suzuki GS550ET
1977 Yamaha RD 250D
1982 Kawasaki GPZ 750 R1
1980 Suzuki GSX 250E
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If it's still bothering you so much, take the rim to a machinist.
Otherwise, reaming a land "without the "proper tool"can't be so awfully difficult....off the top of my head...a wood spade drill bit, a router bit..these'll cut aluminum if you buy two or can sharpen one. Not this particularly, but I've often had to resort to such work-arounds.
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