tube or tubeless tyres for 1980 Suzuki's?

[rphillips]

I can't imagine tire temp will be a problem, if it were the mfg. would not take the liability & print on the sidewall to use a tube on non tubeless wheel. I've never read how much hotter a tire will get, when using a tube. Also don't see a tubeless tire with a tube getting any hotter than a tube type tire with a tube. If you run tube type & have a puncture, you'll need a patch kit (or new tube), tire irons, air supply, & an hour or two for repairs. If you run tubeless, you'll need a plug kit & air supply & appx. 10 min. for repair. Remember, just my opinion.

[ukjules]

Yes tubes tyres add more weight and run hotter
especially if used with the course internals of
a tubeless tyre.
BUT as you say nowadays this must not be the case
as it is stamped on some Avon and Michelin Michelin tyres
that fit these old bikes .

For me it would have to be a spray can of that
gunge to get me to a garage.
No way could I get a tire off my 550 ...
If it was tubeless not a hope even if you did
get it off and then tried
to pump it up !

Just checked my 250rd , gsx250 and they both
have tubes in so the garage or mot centre
knew what they were doing .
Just my 550 with a tubeless front that needs renewing.

pic avon road rider
20201212_121416_resize_11.jpg

[Gorminrider]

It's going to be pretty hard to find actual "tube-type" tires for these rim sizes anyways? rarer still as front and rear "set"s? Unless you search in dirtbike tires.
BUT, If you put a tube in a tubeless tire it works fine. I haven't noticed any important effect on mine. If theydo produce extra heat it should show up in an increase in air pressure. Perhaps it does but if so, pump them to a lower cold pressure to start out.

HOWEVER, If you get a puncture in a tubeless tire +innertube, you won't easily fix it on the roadside because:
the trouble with the combination is that the innertube valve does not seal the rim hole as a tubeless valve will, so a "plug" in the tubeless tire+tube is a no go

and, you will still have to break the tubeless bead to get the tube out...a heavy bike MIGHT be able to break the bead with the sidestand on the tire, but getting the tube out ,patched, and back in without damaging the tube is very difficult- I do believe a tubeless tire is heavier stiffer and a tighter build on these rims than a tube tire is*.

so, IF you expect to be punctured in bad places without resort to facilities, in no particular order of precedence, I would be inclined to try the advice above and convert the alloy rims to tubeless , OR mount a set of specifically tubed tires given my assumption per a looser fit is correct*, OR not worry about the combo beyond especially avoiding the road shoulder where the nails and screws reside,OR find a set of newer tubeless rims from a 1982+ Suzuki. I'd say that as mentioned, the 81 rims though different in appearance, look the same as the 82 where the tire mounts. As to "non-porousity" or casting strength they "look" the same for what that's worth. I even fancy they intended to call these tubeless rims but were unable to get DOT approval in time. But I as always could be wrong.

* (because the only tube tires I have on are still fine and I didn't think to compare except I found later tubeless experience daunting by comparison)

[rphillips]

Probably no need to stamp tubeless on the "78" & "79" model wheels. I'm not sure, but I don't remember "any" tubeless motorcycle tires till 1980. There would be no need for tubeless motorcycle tires until after the cast wheels were used, then a few yrs for development. First cast factory motorcycle wheels I remember were the "76" Kawa LTD 900.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Gonna jump on Jules’ thread here because I’m planning to take the tube out of my front tire over winter. Front had a tube in when I got it 15 years ago. At each new tire change, my tire guy recommended continuing to use a tube. Said there was corrosion of the aluminum around the bead area. But said that I could probably run tubeless if I cleaned up the corrosion.

Running Shinko 705, rear is tubeless, on my second rear due to a puncture and having to ride home on/ruining the tire. I now have plug kit and portable compressor and I know how to use them.

Plug kit won’t do me any good with an tube in the front though. And even with tire irons/other proper tools to remove a tire on the road/trail side, tube repair kit, etc., I just don’t want to even entertain the idea.

So this is what the stem looks like in front wheel.

Assuming no PO bored the hole larger, Once I get the tire/tube off, I need to a replace it with a new one. I see Brian’s pic above and that’s helpful. Been doing some shopping and getting confused by some numbers. What am I looking for? Specific links would really help. Here’s a pair on Amazon, 90deg. Because why not, I’d put the other on the rear next tire change. Will these stems work on my bike, assuming the stem holes are original?

here’s the TUBELESS embossed on the wheel.

[Baatfam]

Just did my front last year...

Here is the NAPA valve stem I bought. 90-426
Also the tool I found on Amazon to modify the rim. (mine did not say "tubeless")



Before modification...


And after...

[Grimly]

Gonna jump on Jules’ thread here because I’m planning to take the tube out of my front tire over winter. Front had a tube in when I got it 15 years ago. At each new tire change, my tire guy recommended continuing to use a tube. Said there was corrosion of the aluminum around the bead area. But said that I could probably run tubeless if I cleaned up the corrosion.

Running Shinko 705, rear is tubeless, on my second rear due to a puncture and having to ride home on/ruining the tire. I now have plug kit and portable compressor and I know how to use them.

Plug kit won’t do me any good with an tube in the front though. And even with tire irons/other proper tools to remove a tire on the road/trail side, tube repair kit, etc., I just don’t want to even entertain the idea.

So this is what the stem looks like in front wheel.

Assuming no PO bored the hole larger, Once I get the tire/tube off, I need to a replace it with a new one. I see Brian’s pic above and that’s helpful. Been doing some shopping and getting confused by some numbers. What am I looking for? Specific links would really help. Here’s a pair on Amazon, 90deg. Because why not, I’d put the other on the rear next tire change. Will these stems work on my bike, assuming the stem holes are original?

here’s the TUBELESS embossed on the wheel.

Get these ones instead - same hole as the standard hole, but it would be a good idea to cut the rebate recess.

https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a16073000ux1254-Anti-Leakage-Tubeless-Motorcycle/dp/B01MZ0L0T1/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=90+degree+tubeless+motorcycle+valve&qid=1607823344&sr=8-8

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Bob, thank you. Think I’ll unmount the tire and tube tomorrow and see what I see. I haven’t removed a a motorcycle tire from the rim since my dirt bike when I was a teen. I have a set of tire irons and YouTube. I’ll take some measurements and evaluate the corrosion before buying anything.

Dave, not too sure about the valve stem set you linked. But the description was.....entertaining:

”Made from rubber and aluminum alloy material, these tire valve are useful for pumping your tire. Ideally for bicycle, auto car, motocycle, truck, etc.The tubeless valves can prevent unsafe factors effectively which caused by vacuum valves puncture rollover. They are the essential supplies for your driving.With thread end, you can snap it easily. And pump your tire through the cap hole conveniently.Note: please pay attention to the dimensions before ordering to make sure the caps fit your vehicle.”

[1980GS1000E]

I must be crazy because I have been running tubeless for years with rubber valve stems.

[Buffalo Bill]

All guitar players (except jazz drips) only use tubes.

[rphillips]

I'm scratching my head, trying to remember a rubber valve stem on a motorcycle wheel. Probably there, I just don't remember them.

[Gorminrider]

I'm scratching my head, trying to remember a rubber valve stem on a motorcycle wheel. Probably there, I just don't remember them.

I must be crazy because I have been running tubeless for years with rubber valve stems.

Not crazy oh yes, I have them on one bike. Preferred, by me I think. The ones to fit and with shorter stems? that I wanted, seemed harder to find than the threaded types...but I think this might be because they were to out of stock where I shop at fortnine.ca .

[Gorminrider]

Said there was corrosion of the aluminum around the bead area. But said that I could probably run tubeless if I cleaned up the corrosion.

@Rich82GS750TZ, just an idea as told to me by a motorcycle mechanic: "painting the rims (where corroded badly on bead surfaces) can smooth them"...MY italics and now I will tell you, having actually tried it , it had better be an epoxy or some kind of super-urethnane on a primer, because if it doesn't stick, you're going to want to clean it off again.
But ...might be something for you to investigate if you are determined for tubeless and a first try won't seal to a corroded rim...

[Jonesz]

Just did my front last year...

Here is the NAPA valve stem I bought. 90-426
Also the tool I found on Amazon to modify the rim. (mine did not say "tubeless")



Before modification...


And after...

Do you have a link for the rim modification tool or a way or name to search for it? Looks like a good one to own.

[Baatfam]

Do you have a link for the rim modification tool or a way or name to search for it? Looks like a good one to own.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I5PFQZU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is a relatively cheap tool, but it works fine on aluminum. I would send you mine, but I already passed it on to another member.

If I remember correctly, the pilot (center) of the tool was a very tight fit in the hole, and I did make it slightly larger.