What to look for when buying a rim?

[Noreg]

On same continent would be closer that across an ocean. (Interesting that you have to deal with that.)

Can not really see what need to see about the hub in a picture of it in the wheel.

Unless you are really familiar with the wear pattern of a hub, you really can't see what need to see with the hub in the wheel even if the wheel is right in front of you.
To really see the wear pattern need to remove the hub from the wheel.
If you have some familiarity with the wear pattern, maybe can get a light shining into there and feel by probing with a stiff wire or something.

I figured how expensive can a hub be. Checked CMSNL, €170.5 xD

Do you know how long they last? And I assume if I change the end on the wheel I should change the other end on the final drive too...

I think I just have to get one, and see what its condition is like. Hopefully it works, and if not I'll figure something out.

[Redman]

I figured how expensive can a hub be. Checked CMSNL, €170.5 xD

Do you know how long they last? And I assume if I change the end on the wheel I should change the other end on the final drive too...

I think I just have to get one, and see what its condition is like. Hopefully it works, and if not I'll figure something out.

Yah, so someone selling a wheel with a hub, for a small amount, either doesn't know what a hub is worth, or doesn't want to bother removing it. (Which isnt usually difficult, but can be.)

You ask: How long does a hub last? Well, that is a long discussion. Discussion will involved how well it was lubed, how often was it lubed, and lubed with what. And which design of hub it is, as that changed in about 3 different years. Are other postings/discussions of that. Again, is a long detailed discussion. Biggest things to learn is:
- they can wear if not lubed, should be lube at least as often as have rear wheel off, or more
- that the ones from year 1982 are the ones that wear the worst.

No, dont assume the splines on the final drive (that mate to the hub) will wear. Typically they dont, and are not really replaceable (can replace entire final drive).
The splines on the hub wear, if anything does, and are replaceable.

[Grimly]

That hub is a black one and chances are it's not worn.
Not to say they don't wear at all, as I found out recently, but in normal use they don't wear.

[Rob S.]

What do I look for?

Roundness. Avoid sharp bends.

Merry Christmas, everybody! (And Praise Bob!)

[Noreg]

Roundness. Avoid sharp bends.

Merry Christmas, everybody! (And Praise Bob!)

Merry christmas!

I bought the last one linked, fingers crossed it arrives with the hub and round.

[Redman]

Noreg,

Would be long discussion about the hubs.

But I found this pic I have that shows the wear pattern (on the 1982 version, the "gold colored one") (compared to a current new one).

Note that the end of the spline that doesn't wear is the end that you will see when the hub is installed in the wheel. So if a person did not understand that , they might look at it when installed in the wheel and say it shows no wear, but it could be close to failing.

[chris]

HI, I know this might be too late, if you can't possibly get the old fasteners out. Try drilling and tapping new mounting holes between the old ones using the brake rotor as a template. I have never done this on a motorcycle wheel but can't see why it would not work.

[Noreg]

I am happy to say my new rim arrived. It is the right size, and it had the whatever its called. It seems to be round too, and has the original balancing weights. So I am assuming it hasn't gotten many miles. Only downside is that its filthy.

Should I take out the wheel bearings to look at them? And grease them up. I was thinking of taking off the coupler thing to see its wear. It appears black, but that might just be it being dirty.

I also need to get the shop to move my tyre from the old rim.

I will have my friend try to weld the studs out of the old rim, if that works it would be great because then I can avoid losing valuable riding days waiting for tyres to be mounted. Moving the brake pad over ever tyre change will ensure it won't get stuck (thats like 3-4 times per year). If welding doesn't help I might drill it out.

There seems to be some tabs holding the screws for the thing, do I just bend them? I can post a picture a bit later.

[Noreg]

Removing the thing seems hard, its hard to bend the tabs. I will just mount it and hope for the best. I am afraid to break the screws. A new thing is like 1000nok witrh shipping and imports. Which is fine if needed.

How do I get the wheel bearings out? I want to see if they are okay and make sure they are adequately fatty.

My wife volunteered to clean the rim for me.

Should I paint the inner parts black and then sand off the parts that should look silvery?

[Gorminrider]

Removing the thing seems hard, its hard to bend the tabs. I will just mount it and hope for the best. I am afraid to break the screws. A new thing is like 1000nok witrh shipping and imports. Which is fine if needed.

How do I get the wheel bearings out? I want to see if they are okay and make sure they are adequately fatty.

My wife volunteered to clean the rim for me.

Should I paint the inner parts black and then sand off the parts that should look silvery?

You can't do much with sealed bearings so don't try. Test them as per the manual. Wiggling the wheel is giving you distance and leverage that you don't have inspecting a bearing in your hand.

Wheel bearings usually last a very long time. When I bought a second hand car with 300,000 km, I checked them, but did not automatically replace them. My motorcycles have far fewer km. Still, I check them, but do not automatically replace them. ...

[chris]

Hi, like Gorminrider said, wheel bearings last a very long time in a street bike. You can check them by sticking your finger inside the inner race and turning with pressure. If they turn smoothly, they are probably good. If there is any roughness, replace them. Wheel bearing are fairly cheap and easy to replace. Use a long drift to remove them and length of ready rod a little smaller than the bearing I.D to install . You will need a socket slightly smaller than the O.D of the bearing so you can press it in by turning the nuts on the ready rod. This is a more civilized method than hammering them in, which I have seen some people do.