Clutch master cylinder problem

[earlfor]

This is on a 03 bandit 1200S

I put a Brakemaster rebuild kit in the clutch master cylinder. Master cylinder was thoroughly cleaned and the flow holes are unobstructed. The new parts are installed in the correct order and seal orientation just like in the original assembly. The only thing that happens when I cycle the clutch lever is that fluid is drawn from the reservoir into the clutch cylinder assembly and simultaneously flows back through the return hole and back into the reservoir. I can't get it to pump anything into the line.

It's a Japanese made kit, so the quality should be good.

[bwringer]

If nothing is backwards, then it has to be crap parts allowing fluid to bypass.

The OEM kit is only $26.84. I've had very poor luck with aftermarket brake and clutch bits.

https://www.onlinecycleparts.com/oemparts/partsearch/suzuki?partsearch=59800-08810

I guess it could be some other exotic issue like a clutch master cylinder from some other unrelated bike. People swap brake master cylinders around sometimes, but that seems very unlikely for a clutch master.

[earlfor]

If nothing is backwards, then it has to be crap parts allowing fluid to bypass.

The OEM kit is only $26.84. I've had very poor luck with aftermarket brake and clutch bits.

https://www.onlinecycleparts.com/oemparts/partsearch/suzuki?partsearch=59800-08810

I guess it could be some other exotic issue like a clutch master cylinder from some other unrelated bike. People swap brake master cylinders around sometimes, but that seems very unlikely for a clutch master.

I'm using the stock/original clutch master cylinder body. I have tried disconnecting the line at the clutch slave cylinder bleed end on the sprocket cover and even into an open line, I can get no fluid flow out. The Brakemaster kit is supposedly a good quality item, as much as I couldn't believe it, it looks like you're right. lol with an open line, it should flow fluid when the lever is cycled, not having pressure should not matter. Right?

$26 for the kit plus $26 for shipping seems to be a bit excessive for a 2 ounce kit though.

[bwringer]

That link was my local source for Suzuki bits -- no shipping costs for me because they're only about 20 minutes away!

Is there a similar shoppe near you? I think Parts Outlaw is in FL, but no idea how close to you.

Looks like they want a bit more for the OEM kit, but they're running a $4.95 shipping special.

https://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d4085af8700230d8b4f9d4/clutch-master-cylinder-gsf1200sk1-sk2-sk3-sk4-sk5-szk5

One other weird possibility: is the pushrod in the right place, oriented correctly (I don't remember if it's directional), and fully seated against or in the piston and in the lever bushing?

Also, this may require magnification and a strong light, but if you can look down into that teensy weensy expansion hole at the bottom of the reservoir, you may be able to see the lip of the cup seal pass it just as the lever starts moving. Go slow -- if you move the lever quickly you might get a squirt of fluid in the chops. This can be really hard or impossible to see, depending.

And finally, you might try bench bleeding if you haven't done that already; remove the lever and push the piston all the way in a few times with something blunt. Sometimes this will get a few stubborn air bubbles in the back to burp out.

[earlfor]

That link was my local source for Suzuki bits -- no shipping costs for me because they're only about 20 minutes away!

Is there a similar shoppe near you? I think Parts Outlaw is in FL, but no idea how close to you.

Looks like they want a bit more for the OEM kit, but they're running a $4.95 shipping special.

https://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d4085af8700230d8b4f9d4/clutch-master-cylinder-gsf1200sk1-sk2-sk3-sk4-sk5-szk5

One other weird possibility: is the pushrod in the right place, oriented correctly (I don't remember if it's directional), and fully seated against or in the piston and in the lever bushing?

Also, this may require magnification and a strong light, but if you can look down into that teensy weensy expansion hole at the bottom of the reservoir, you may be able to see the lip of the cup seal pass it just as the lever starts moving. Go slow -- if you move the lever quickly you might get a squirt of fluid in the chops. This can be really hard or impossible to see, depending.

And finally, you might try bench bleeding if you haven't done that already; remove the lever and push the piston all the way in a few times with something blunt. Sometimes this will get a few stubborn air bubbles in the back to burp out.

I've ordered an OEM kit and just waiting at the moment. heh Been thinking, it shouldn't require being installed on the bike and pushing fluid down a line to pump. When I get the new kit, I'll clamp the master cyl in my shop vice with no line connected and see if it will pump. that'll save me some off and on and pumping pumping to see if I get anything out of the end of a three foot hose.